Mopar R1 block

-
Ok sent the deposit on the x block, will pick up after vacation which starts Monday. So towards the end of the month.
It was run as a .030 318 in an arrow ran 6.60 so a mild build. The bore is a fresh 4.04 Should be a good candidate for strong stroker engine.

08E72392-FDFB-4023-9DF5-7F40BC676ACC.png


0C7C8425-1814-44A6-8395-80B4E9BCBF61.png
 
12swinger said:
Ok sent the deposit on the x block, will pick up after vacation which starts Monday. So towards the end of the month.
It was run as a .030 318 in an arrow ran 6.60 so a mild build. The bore is a fresh 4.04 Should be a good candidate for strong stroker engine.

View attachment 1715447576

View attachment 1715447577
Click to expand...


Can't tell from the pictures if it's been tubed. You should do that.

Should be a nice foundation for a great engine.
 
yellow rose said:
Can't tell from the pictures if it's been tubed. You should do that.

Should be a nice foundation for a great engine.
Click to expand...
Springs are inboard 002-003 springs multiple adjustments front and rear.
A 10.5” rim is under the car, and a 28.4x 12.1 and a 13.2 section width tire fits.
 
12swinger said:
Springs are inboard 002-003 springs multiple adjustments front and rear.
A 10.5” rim is under the car, and a 28.4x 12.1 and a 13.2 section width tire fits.
Click to expand...


Sorry, I meant from the pictures I can't tell if the passenger side oil gallery was tubed. If not, you should do it.
 
12swinger said:
I believe he said it had no oiling mods
Click to expand...


LOL. That's even better. I've had to fix way too many mods that did nothing.

If you have the small block engine book it tells you how to do it.

You can buy a reamer from MSC and the tubing.

Ream the hole and install the tube.

One thing I do is buy the reamer big enough so the brass tube slides into the gallery. I don't "press" the tube in like the book says. The tube should be a slip fit and when you peen the tube where it breaks through into the lifter bore the damn thing will never come out.
 
yellow rose said:
LOL. That's even better. I've had to fix way too many mods that did nothing.

If you have the small block engine book it tells you how to do it.

You can buy a reamer from MSC and the tubing.

Ream the hole and install the tube.

One thing I do is buy the reamer big enough so the brass tube slides into the gallery. I don't "press" the tube in like the book says. The tube should be a slip fit and when you peen the tube where it breaks through into the lifter bore the damn thing will never come out.
Click to expand...
I’ve always had solid lifter cams, as I dreaded the tube and peen part, not so much blocking the one side. Have you ever seen that drill bit break or ream? Could be a problem?
My machinist mentioned the crossover line I believe for the main bearing? I guess he’s put them in. Not sure how important that is, as it’s probably not gonna exceed 7,000
I saw for myself what can happen, as I installed the cam and lifters, bottom end etc.. and pressurized the engine with a drill, as I rolled the engine over, saw it pretty steady around 80 pounds of press, and at max lift, one lifter would gush oil till it started down.
I moved it to another location and it’s fine there.
It was a slight loss of oil pressure that over time may have caused a bigger problem.
Appreciate any tips.
He messaged me, and said he had a solid lifter cam, so no mods were needed.
 
yellow rose said:
LOL. That's even better. I've had to fix way too many mods that did nothing.

If you have the small block engine book it tells you how to do it.

You can buy a reamer from MSC and the tubing.

Ream the hole and install the tube.

One thing I do is buy the reamer big enough so the brass tube slides into the gallery. I don't "press" the tube in like the book says. The tube should be a slip fit and when you peen the tube where it breaks through into the lifter bore the damn thing will never come out.
Click to expand...
What is MSC? Mancini?
 
MSC tends to be more expensive than they used to be. McMaster Carr has excellent selection and reasonable prices but there are a lot of suppliers out there now.
 
12swinger said:
I’ll probably have my machinist handle that mod. I think he has the ream or bit.
We discussed it on my current engine, but when he saw the lifter I was going to run, he agreed it probably wasn’t necessary.
Click to expand...


I'd have a LONG talk with the dude. Any lifter that isn't hydraulic needs that modification. I don't care how tight the lifter bores are, they are a HUGE leak.

Also, if the guy doesn't understand enough to tube the block and NOT use a crossover he needs to rethink the oiling system on a Chrysler.

The crossover tube is worthless. The tube in the oil gallery is a BIG deal.
 
I've got to ask how is the lifter angle geometry tolerance on the X and R over the counter blocks? I know the production automotive blocks usually are far from perfect.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
I've got to ask how is the lifter angle geometry tolerance on the X and R over the counter blocks? I know the production automotive blocks usually are far from perfect.
Click to expand...


Slightly better than OE on geometry and much better consistency on bore sizing.

Everything still needs to be verified though.
 
If the lifter bores are bushed to correct lifter angles, doesn’t that eliminate the need to tube and block the lifter galleys?
 
Last edited:
yellow rose said:
I'd have a LONG talk with the dude. Any lifter that isn't hydraulic needs that modification. I don't care how tight the lifter bores are, they are a HUGE leak.

Also, if the guy doesn't understand enough to tube the block and NOT use a crossover he needs to rethink the oiling system on a Chrysler.

The crossover tube is worthless. The tube in the oil gallery is a BIG deal.
Click to expand...
I’ll block it off for sure. Whether he wants to bush the lifter bores, or block off the galleys he may want to determine by measuring the lifter area and make sure they are round, and tight.
I can’t remember what he said was controversial on the crossover line, but he backed off.
His bread and butter is Chevrolet’s though he is a Pontiac guy. Made his own Pontiac heads out of aluminum years ago, as no one at the time made any he liked, there on the engine in his Vega.
I may introduce him to the mopar book on A engines. I should refresh myself on a few things also.
I definitely want to sonic test, to determine what bore size is safe.
 
A wise idea to sonic check. It’s also just darn good to know.
 
rumblefish360 said:
A wise idea to sonic check. It’s also just darn good to know.
Click to expand...
I see the recommended max bore is 4.060 wtf?
I’ve seen many running 4.100 and as much as 4.165 and claim they’ll go 4.180
I’m sure there’s variances in manufacturing that dictate how far we can go.
 
Depends on the blocks part number. Some are listed to be able to go 4.220.
 
12swinger said:
I’ll block it off for sure. Whether he wants to bush the lifter bores, or block off the galleys he may want to determine by measuring the lifter area and make sure they are round, and tight.
I can’t remember what he said was controversial on the crossover line, but he backed off.
His bread and butter is Chevrolet’s though he is a Pontiac guy. Made his own Pontiac heads out of aluminum years ago, as no one at the time made any he liked, there on the engine in his Vega.
I may introduce him to the mopar book on A engines. I should refresh myself on a few things also.
I definitely want to sonic test, to determine what bore size is safe.
Click to expand...


If you bush them you don't need the tube.

I'm all for bushing them of you can 1). Find someone with the tools and know how to do it and B) afford it. I used to have access to the BHJ stuff to do it for Chrysler's but it was borrowed. By a thief. Who has yet to return it.
 
12swinger said:
I see the recommended max bore is 4.060 wtf?
I’ve seen many running 4.100 and as much as 4.165 and claim they’ll go 4.180
I’m sure there’s variances in manufacturing that dictate how far we can go.
Click to expand...


Do your sonic test. You may be surprised. The X blocks I've tested would all go 4.100 or better. In fact, I think 4.125 was the least I'd see them go. The book claims 4 inch is all the X block will go but they go more than that.
 
just because you can does not mean you should
especially if high comp, blown, Nitrous high rpm etc
once you scan have your pistons and rings in hand before you bore
actually I have a line on the rings B4 ordering pistons
readily available works for me
 
Is there anyone here that have the torq spec of the 4 mains bolts?
Are they the same as the torq spec for the 2 bolt mains?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top