famous bob
mopar misfit
not common ,
not common , 3.6 is a great engine ...there are lemons in every store tho..
More 3.6 carnage
- Thread starter Woodys_Cuda
- Start date
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dusterbing the peace
FABO pyrite member
Replaced the followers on my wife’s 15 grand Cherokee. Full day job, but the motor city mechanic on YouTube has two great videos for it. Got to it before it wiped out the cam.
Woodys_Cuda
Ontario, Canada
So the saga continues... the mechanic replaced the camshafts, big $$$. Two days later the engine light comes on again. We scanned the codes and it's a #5 cylinder misfire again. I talked to the shop owner and he tells me it's a bad valve and the head needs replacing now. Now i'm not a mechanic but how was the bad valve missed? He told me it was because there was a bad lifter on that cylinder before the repair. Does that make sense? I'm worried now to go ahead with this in case it's actually a bad cylinder.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
Big $$$ meaning you paid for it?
All they need to do is a leakdown test to check if it's the valve or piston rings. Same as any engine. I'd be looking at a whole replacement engine as a backup option, dealerships are notoriously bad at handling these types of things.
Woodys_Cuda
Ontario, Canada
Yes, the camshaft replacement was expensive. I asked if they did a leakdown, he said yes. This is a friend's shop. Ugh..
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
3.6L 2011-2018 Chrysler LONG BLOCK Engine
Idk what else to tell you, I imagine a new head is at least $1,000? I haven't been in this type of situation but it seems like they always turn into a rabbit hole.
Idk what else to tell you, I imagine a new head is at least $1,000? I haven't been in this type of situation but it seems like they always turn into a rabbit hole.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
You find heads remand anywhere from 400 to 750
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
While some will go a long time ...most of them won't... and it's a roll of the dice.
The best part is that they use aluminum blocks on some of these engines if not all of these ones now and they're known to distort so you could go and do R&R on a cylinder head do it correctly and have the thing blow Steam. Next thing you know you're tearing the whole engine apart to machine it or buying a short block. It really sucks
The best part is that they use aluminum blocks on some of these engines if not all of these ones now and they're known to distort so you could go and do R&R on a cylinder head do it correctly and have the thing blow Steam. Next thing you know you're tearing the whole engine apart to machine it or buying a short block. It really sucks
Woodys_Cuda
Ontario, Canada
Thanks for all the replies.
So far they've replaced two coils, spark plugs, still misfiring cyl #5. Replaced two camshafts, still misfiring cyl #5. I asked them to do a compression test on that cylinder before replacing that head which is the next step. Just waiting for the results before we give them the go ahead.
So far they've replaced two coils, spark plugs, still misfiring cyl #5. Replaced two camshafts, still misfiring cyl #5. I asked them to do a compression test on that cylinder before replacing that head which is the next step. Just waiting for the results before we give them the go ahead.
Crazy Fixes:
2000 E150 Van misfire on #4 (5.4) and I was out on the interstate with a long ways to go.
Had replaced coil and spark plug on #4 a month earlier. Then out on the freeway it stated acting up again.
They say moisture or anti-freeze/steam gets in around the coil boot and grounds out the spark plug lead.
Pulled the doghouse at a gas stop, had a fresh can of WD-40 with me so I sprayed down #4 coil and boot and clip electrical connector.
Fired it up and it was back to 100% again, the WD-40 displaced any moisture and stopped the misfire immediately.
On the freeway again thinking: Back to Full Power.
Oh Yeah!
By all means worth a try.
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2000 E150 Van misfire on #4 (5.4) and I was out on the interstate with a long ways to go.
Had replaced coil and spark plug on #4 a month earlier. Then out on the freeway it stated acting up again.
They say moisture or anti-freeze/steam gets in around the coil boot and grounds out the spark plug lead.
Pulled the doghouse at a gas stop, had a fresh can of WD-40 with me so I sprayed down #4 coil and boot and clip electrical connector.
Fired it up and it was back to 100% again, the WD-40 displaced any moisture and stopped the misfire immediately.
On the freeway again thinking: Back to Full Power.
Oh Yeah!
By all means worth a try.
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famous bob
mopar misfit
you guys dont feel too bad , they replaced the shortblock in my wifes ford at 50,000 miles .
My dad was a ford guy, out of 4 new ford pick ups I remember, 2 were bad ,third one burnt = junk !!
toplscuda
Well-Known Member
I have our 14 cv van torn down right now due to a cylinder 3 misfire. I had replace a couple bad followers a few years ago when it started ticking with about 100k miles on it. This issue I traced to the two valves not sealing consistently. Tore it down to find exhaust follower worn and intake lifter sticking. Taught the kid in the shop how to lap all the valves. Bought new lifters and followers for it. Hope it have it back together in a few days. Still waiting on a couple parts for it.
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Woodys_Cuda
Ontario, Canada
Update
They did another compression and leakdown test with a senior mechanic and the valve is still suspect. So it does need a cylinder head. She has spent about $4,000 Canadian to get to this point. I complained to the shop owner and he's waving the labor charges but the head is still around another $2,000 with gaskets, etc. We're not happy.
Why was it so difficult to find a bad valve???
They did another compression and leakdown test with a senior mechanic and the valve is still suspect. So it does need a cylinder head. She has spent about $4,000 Canadian to get to this point. I complained to the shop owner and he's waving the labor charges but the head is still around another $2,000 with gaskets, etc. We're not happy.
Why was it so difficult to find a bad valve???
Seems crazy....
Get the head off, cut the seats, and install new valves If they are questionable.
Good as new.
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Woodys_Cuda
Ontario, Canada
Well George they said the head needs replacement and it's supposed to be a common issue for the 3.6. I'm just baffled and pissed off by the whole scenario.
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MopaR&D
Nerd Member
That's most modern cars for ya. Everything is designed to last a very finite amount and then "remove and replace".
I want to sell my 2000 Buick and get a newer Ecoboost Mustang as a daily at some point but I'm sure the engine won't last anywhere near as long as this trusty old all-iron 3800 V6. If only I could easily and cheaply swap that engine into something smaller and lighter with a manual transmission and RWD... Might do it with an XJ Jeep Cherokee some day.
This tells the story about the bad 3.6 cylinder head right here.
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Nasty, Nasty, carbon buildup on these 3.6 engines.
I would be running Seafoam in the Gas and Oil as regular maintenance.
Lots of carbon on the piston tops and consequently in the ring lands too > stuck oil ring and lowering the compression.
Very complicated engines. Dual overhead variable cams, chain drive oil pump. Lower and upper oil pans.
Not to mention the failing valve seat and failing exhaust valve problems. Bad Heads.
2003 Chysler 3.3 and 3.8 roller pushrod engines are looking pretty good right now. Much much simpler and easy to work on.
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I would be running Seafoam in the Gas and Oil as regular maintenance.
Lots of carbon on the piston tops and consequently in the ring lands too > stuck oil ring and lowering the compression.
Very complicated engines. Dual overhead variable cams, chain drive oil pump. Lower and upper oil pans.
Not to mention the failing valve seat and failing exhaust valve problems. Bad Heads.
2003 Chysler 3.3 and 3.8 roller pushrod engines are looking pretty good right now. Much much simpler and easy to work on.
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MopaR&D
Nerd Member
Hmm, maybe I'll look at doing a decarbon treatment on my mom's 300C with the 3.6 when I visit. Of course the oil would then need to be changed. Idk if the carbon buildup is really that bad on hers though, I was always good about changing the oil on time and when it gets driven it's usually far enough to get up to full temp and doesn't see much idle time.
It's such a common engine you have to remember, lots of regular drivers these days take short trips with lots of idling and go way past oil change intervals without a second thought.
The crazy part is that the engine 2014 3.6 was spotlessly clean inside when they did the teardown, only to find it Carbon Locked inside.
That's an extream amount of carbon buildup when it will actually Lockup the engine.
Unreal, new engines....
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