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Early A-Body Discussions

  1. Mattax

    Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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    I don't think so..as long as nothing is touching.
    There might be some connections that if lose, electricity will find a path to ground through a different circuit. when it happens usually it has to do with the turn signal and parking lights.

    It looks like '62 one fuse is used for Dome & Brake lights.

    Brake light switch closed power flows to the turn signal switch ===> Turn signal switch connections to the brake lights are normally closed ====>
    Power flows to each tail light through seperate wires (through two connectors) ==> bulbs===>each has a ground wire in the trunk.

    Maybe schematics help. These are based on my 67 so the connector cavity numbers and wire positions may be different.
    Power flow when brake switch closed.
    upload_2019-6-12_11-30-31.png

    Power flow when Brake Switch Closed with Turn signal for left turn.

    upload_2019-6-12_11-40-44.png

    Dome Light
    Power is always present at the dome light. The switches are in the ground wires. Any switch closed completes the circuit.
    Based on that, here's how I interpret the '62 wiring diagram.
    upload_2019-6-12_11-48-20.png


    These wires from that fuse are always at system voltage.
    In other words they are ready supply power.
    upload_2019-6-12_12-6-53.png

    Close any switch and current will flow through the lamp to ground.
    upload_2019-6-12_12-15-46.png

    Something has to be crossed for to connect the stop lamp wiring to the other stuff.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2019
  2. gsoco

    gsoco gsoco

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    Turn signal switch is interesting...the steering wheel is off - I did connect the steering column plug...but no other lever or anything...is there any ground in the horn / turn signal switch that might need connecting?
     
  3. slantsixdan

    slantsixdan =..=

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    Definitely no fuselink in '62. Our cars didn't start getting much of anything in the way of reasonable circuit protection til '63-'64. A few individual circuits are protected by inline fuses in the '60-'61 cars, or a small underdash fuseblock in the '62 cars, but there is no main circuit protection (e.g. fusible link). Adding a good deal more circuit protection is a very fine idea, sooner rather than later if you want to keep the car. You may want to take a look at this thread on circuit protection upgrades.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2019
  4. gsoco

    gsoco gsoco

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  5. gsoco

    gsoco gsoco

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    Thanks Dan. Good info.
     
  6. gsoco

    gsoco gsoco

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    ok. Here's where I am now. Old ignition switch, new start relay and ballast resistor. Did the check at S2 and have 12.5 vdc in run and 10.75 when cranking. Car now starts. With key in running, ballast resistor gets hot to touch. Disconnected J2A and J3 and of course won't start....no lights or instrument cluster activity...
     
  7. Mattax

    Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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    Getting closer to one of the problems.
    Why does it have connection in run?
    And why isn't it turning the starter in run of there is power on the hot side?
    Is the ground run to ignition switch or something strang liek that?
     
  8. gsoco

    gsoco gsoco

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    Update....pulled main harness out and took voltages at light sw.
    The old ignition switch does not have the grd connection on it. But the car is cranking fine now - starting - radio works, now headlights work...as you'd expect, have some 12 volt power to the light switch and the temp gauge is maxing out again...still no movement from the ammeter or gas gauge...but the gas gauge may just be registering low because there is little gas in the tank, so I am going to get gas and see if there is any change...just do not understand the ballast resistor issue...the new starter relay requires a ground wire and S-2 is in a different position, but the car cranks correctly...
     
  9. Mattax

    Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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    Sounds like the terminal positions may be different in more ways than you're thinking. or maybe its just a diffrent type of relay and not correct at all.
    Start wire to the relay should only be hot when key is in Start.
    The start terminal that wire attaches to should connect to ground. Through a wire to a safety switch or the case
    I don't know what the 'G" terminal on some of the replacement ignition key switches is for. Don't use it. Maybe it is for ground, maybe its not. Test it on all key positions to be sure it doesn't connect to anything if you're curious.

    Take some photos and post them up. It will be easier to see what you have.
     
  10. gsoco

    gsoco gsoco

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    Will do. Just FYI, these things work: cigar lighter, radio, headlights, starter, Ammeter. Things that don't work: gas gauge (pegged low), temp gauge (pegged high), ballast resistor overheating....engine now starts but won't keep running. But things are getting better - I think.
     
  11. Mattax

    Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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    Can you disconnect the key switch easily and attach the ohm meter to the terminals?
    One to the power feed and then with key off, then key run, then key start see which terminals connect with each position. Then you'll know.
     
  12. gsoco

    gsoco gsoco

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    Will do...
     
  13. gsoco

    gsoco gsoco

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    Traveling for work now and next week...back at it after that. Thanks again!
     
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    • gsoco

      gsoco gsoco

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      Hello - I am back after some work and medical issues and trying to resolve the electrical problems that remain....I took all your advice and studied it during my "off" time. Now the temp gauge is OK and all the other accessories work. The last issues are the gas gauge and the instrument cluster lights. What if the gas gauge was not connected to the sending unit? Would it peg low? Checked the fuses for the lights and they are good...going to check the voltage at the fuse block next...thanks again for your insights.
      Jason
       
    • gsoco

      gsoco gsoco

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      :thumbsup:
       
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