more slant problems

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scampy72

scampy72

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ok so im still having the stalling issue with my slant. it will run in park or neutral, but the second you put it in gear once its warmed up it wont idle :( , it will when its cold when the choke is on. drove it around and once it got warm it started to die at stop signs and what not. thought it was the idle but i was wrong.

ive tried putting the idle all the way up and still nothing so im not sure what it could be.

i rebuilt the carb and changed all the vaccuum lines and even did the WD-40 test and it didnt change the idle so i know that it is not the vaccuum.

i was thinking that it might be the float? when i first rebuilt the carb the float was set too high ( i know this because gas was pouring out the vaccuum line above the float bowl) could i have set the float too low? i dont know if that would make the change once the car warms up or not. please help, im starting to get very annoyed....


also could it be the distributor? something else?




thanks
-marc
 
Your not going to want to hear this, but it sounds like the symtoms of low compression.




scampy72 said:
ok so im still having the stalling issue with my slant. it will run in park or neutral, but the second you put it in gear once its warmed up it wont idle :( , it will when its cold when the choke is on. drove it around and once it got warm it started to die at stop signs and what not. thought it was the idle but i was wrong.

ive tried putting the idle all the way up and still nothing so im not sure what it could be.

i rebuilt the carb and changed all the vaccuum lines and even did the WD-40 test and it didnt change the idle so i know that it is not the vaccuum.

i was thinking that it might be the float? when i first rebuilt the carb the float was set too high ( i know this because gas was pouring out the vaccuum line above the float bowl) could i have set the float too low? i dont know if that would make the change once the car warms up or not. please help, im starting to get very annoyed....


also could it be the distributor? something else?




thanks
-marc
Click to expand...
 
f-in great...... so what could cause this? what do i check? is it worth it or should i take it off the road and build my 440?
 
My car was doing pretty much the same thing a while back. I had over tightened the needle and seat when I rebuilt the carb and striped the threads.
 
My Holley two barrel on my/6 did the same thing cold ran ok warmed up didn't want to stay running. When I shut it off gas would go thru the carb. Took it apart cleaned and blew it out fine now. Going to rebuild next trouble I have
Moe
 
Still sounds like a carb problem if you don't have any vacuum leaks. See if you can find a local Mopar guy with the same carb in good working condition. Swap it over to your engine to see if that is it. I can't remember......is this a Holley 1920 on a '72 model? Will yours work right at normal operating temp with the choke partially closed?
 
yes its a 1920 and it will work with the choke closed even a bit. i just rebuilt it so it is all clean and everything, also i dont think the threads on the needle and seat are stripped, it is brand new and i made sure not to make it too tight, i also used teflon tape to ensure no leaks. when i took it apart to rebuild i made sure i blew out all the passages and everything, also obviously there are new gaskets throughout. also still wondering, COULD this be a float issue? too low?
 
what is your timing at?

is there a hotter cam in it?

stock converter?

if the engine is lugging due to to tight of a converter then it can stall...

if it runs out of gas it will stall...

i imagine its a stocker so run the valves and check timing... start around 8-12adv.

also what is your idle speed in N??
 
to be honest im not sure about the advance and idle speed, i do know this though, it is not the origional motor, it is stock as far as i know however, was just a replacement. it ran fine last summer then this started happening and thats when i started checking all the carb issues and what not.

if you could tell me how to check the advance i will do that and post it, also the idle speed i assume i need a tach to check right? also what do you mean by "run the valves"? and how do i do that? i know how to build an engine but not so good at this diagnosing and tuning thing yet.

also just put gas in, so unless it could be the float (still need an answer in that please) it is not running out of gas.
 
if you could tell me how to check the advance i will do that and post it

well you will need a 7/16 socket on a LONG extension, a ratchet, and a timing light...

you put the "+" and "-" wires on the battery and then the pick-up on the number one plug wire... then start the car... there will be a little tab near the balancer with numbers on it. make sure the notch on the balancer is at at least 8*. if not you will need to loosen the 7/16 bolt for the dizzy and turn the distributor till you get you number...

also the idle speed i assume i need a tach to check right?

makes it alot easier if you do or the timing light does...

also what do you mean by "run the valves"? and how do i do that? i know how to build an engine but not so good at this diagnosing and tuning thing yet.

run the valves or make sure the lash is the correct clearnace... .010 on the intake and .020 on the exh....

also just put gas in, so unless it could be the float (still need an answer in that please) it is not running out of gas.

you will know if it is the float by checking it and making sure it is set right...
 
Sounds like a carb issue. 1920's have some very exacting specs on the bendable rods and float heights. A stuck flaot (or a soggy float) will make it run very rich too, stinky rich. An OLD car I tinkered on needed a couple raps on the side of the carb with a plastic mallet to unstick the float. I didnt tap it, the owner did. Rebuilt 1920's are hit or miss, best thing to to is get a old stocker and rebuild it yourself. Modern rebuild techniques use parts that could span 20 years to rebuild one carb.
 
ok so i will do that stuff tomorrow, but just to clarify even though it runs fine cold, it COULD still be the float once it is warmed up. as i said the float was too high, and i set it as per the instructions, so i lowered it quite a bit.


so should i make it a bit higher again and see if that fixes things before i do this other stuff?

i always like to try the easy thing first, just to be sure i dont go out and spend a bunch of money then realize i never needed to spend a dime....

one more thing, if i do the valves will i need a new gasket for the valve cover or is it re-useable?
 
scampy72 said:
ok so i will do that stuff tomorrow, but just to clarify even though it runs fine cold, it COULD still be the float once it is warmed up. as i said the float was too high, and i set it as per the instructions, so i lowered it quite a bit.


so should i make it a bit higher again and see if that fixes things before i do this other stuff?

i always like to try the easy thing first, just to be sure i dont go out and spend a bunch of money then realize i never needed to spend a dime....

one more thing, if i do the valves will i need a new gasket for the valve cover or is it re-useable?
Click to expand...

great thing about what i told you is its all free...

and yes it is best to buy a CORK gasket ( the rubbers WONT seal) and RTV it to the valve cover and do not use any on the head side... then it will come off with the V/C everytime...
 
well i need the gasket and the feeler guages, but i guess other than that yes it is all free. but the float is also the easiest thing to do, no more than five mins to adjust, so should i? ill probably check all the other stuff anyway cause it will help it run better but i just want to know if i should readjust the float?

also thank you everyone for all the info so far, keep it coming
 
scampy72 said:
well i need the gasket and the feeler guages, but i guess other than that yes it is all free. but the float is also the easiest thing to do, no more than five mins to adjust, so should i? ill probably check all the other stuff anyway cause it will help it run better but i just want to know if i should readjust the float?

also thank you everyone for all the info so far, keep it coming
Click to expand...

well if your in doubt there is no reason to NOT check it...

but i would think if it was driving fine it would have to be getting fuel, i.e. not a low float...
 
ok cool, ill just check everything! if anybody thinks of anything else helpful please post, ill let yall know what i find
 
hey all i found my timing light, just want to ask in order to change the timing, i get that i have to loosen the 7/16 nut but then to change it do i just manually turn the distributor or is there a set screw or something? obviously im going to check the timing on start up first. should i check the timing while its in gear? or only in park? please help, tell me exactly how to do it so i dont f things up.
 
scampy72 said:
hey all i found my timing light, just want to ask in order to change the timing, i get that i have to loosen the 7/16 nut but then to change it do i just manually turn the distributor or is there a set screw or something? obviously im going to check the timing on start up first. should i check the timing while its in gear? or only in park? please help, tell me exactly how to do it so i dont f things up.
Click to expand...

yes you have to turn the distributor...

and just do it in N... you know if your advancing it cuz the idle speed will go up...
 
thank you ill get that checked in a bit, then ill have to wait for the valves as i have to order the gasket.
 
ok so i did the timing and here is what i found.
a) the timing was super advanced on the car (like 25* at least)

b) i think the number plate on the car is wrong because i turned the dizzy to where the plate says retard (bottom of the plate) but the idle sped up.... so im not sure about that

c) advanced the car by ear (idle speed up) and right now it is at about 13* adv and seems to run ok when the car is stopped and in gear and also when the car is in N or P(problem used to be when the car was in gear but stopped) i havent taken a test drive yet but in the drive way it seemed good,will; let you know about that.

d) question, i was told by the guy i got the timing light from to tune it with the vaccuum advance off of the dizzy, was this right or should i have left it on?
 
scampy72 said:
yes its a 1920 and it will work with the choke closed even a bit. i just rebuilt it so it is all clean and everything, also i dont think the threads on the needle and seat are stripped, it is brand new and i made sure not to make it too tight, i also used teflon tape to ensure no leaks. when i took it apart to rebuild i made sure i blew out all the passages and everything, also obviously there are new gaskets throughout. also still wondering, COULD this be a float issue? too low?
Click to expand...
Nope, it's not a float problem. That would show up at high RPM's first or going around a sharp corner. If it runs better with the choke on, it's running too lean. That could be a vacuum leak or a partially plugged idle fuel circuit. I've also seen faulty gaskets that blocked (or opened) a circuit causing a flow problem too but it's pretty rare and I haven't seen that with a 1920. Most of their problems (other than the chronic fuel bowl cover leaks) are in the metering block. You say you have no vacuum leaks.....have you checked what the manifold vacuum reading is?
 
scampy72 said:
ok so i did the timing and here is what i found.
a) the timing was super advanced on the car (like 25* at least)

b) i think the number plate on the car is wrong because i turned the dizzy to where the plate says retard (bottom of the plate) but the idle sped up.... so im not sure about that

c) advanced the car by ear (idle speed up) and right now it is at about 13* adv and seems to run ok when the car is stopped and in gear and also when the car is in N or P(problem used to be when the car was in gear but stopped) i havent taken a test drive yet but in the drive way it seemed good,will; let you know about that.

d) question, i was told by the guy i got the timing light from to tune it with the vaccuum advance off of the dizzy, was this right or should i have left it on?
Click to expand...
You set the timing at normal idle speed with the vacuum advance hose disconnected.
 
There are 2 adjusting nuts on the distributor, one holds the distributor to the mounting plate (if I remember correctly) and one holds the plate to the motor, THAT is the one you want to adjust. The plate to distributor is factory set and you dont want to adjust that one. Help me out Moparkid...
 
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