Motor home 727 in duster questions

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73 Duster_forever 73

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Hello everyone I am wondering if I can make a motor home 727 work in a 73 duster. I am a highschool student with a small budget. I am looking at a motor home 413 with a 727 attached to it. I am curious if I can make the 727 work with out swapping the output shaft. I can post a couple pictures. I’m trying to build this car on a budget. If you have other suggestions feel free to let me know.

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You can use that as is and have a drive shaft made to fit it. That's what I would do.
 
The transmission end of said drive shaft will end up looking similar to this.
DRIVE SHAFT.jpg
 
Big Block Mopar transmissions, 383-413-440 etc., like the one you have, will NOT bolt up to a small block, 318-360 etc. if you don't already know, & are running a small block engine in you Duster. They have a different bolt pattern (Sadly) on the block. If you ARE running a Big Block, what RRR said.
 
IIRC the length of the driveshaft would necessitate a carrier bearing possibly. I've swapped the tailshaft before and it's not that difficult plus it gives you a chance to see how beat your clutch packs are.
 
You can use it as is like said above, but will need a custom slip style driveshaft made. It would likely be cheaper to change the tail shaft and housing for the correct one. You can also then use a standard driveshaft. Or shop for another 727, this time a car, long tailshaft style. I found one locally for $100 when I did mine, and converted one from MH to car. Best of luck
 
Change the length. You might be able to find a stock driveshaft to fit. It would be cheaper than having a special shaft made. Didn't those mh 413s have weird heads and exhaust manifolds that won't clear in a Duster?
 
RB blocks almost need 69 HP manifolds to clear the steering shaft, even then the accepted solution was to cut the steering shaft sleeve because it's pretty tight.
 
Change the length. You might be able to find a stock driveshaft to fit. It would be cheaper than having a special shaft made. Didn't those mh 413s have weird heads and exhaust manifolds that won't clear in a Duster?
With a fixed yoke like it has, he would need a slip style 2 piece driveshaft from a truck or something else. Finding the correct length may be a challenge.
 
Pick up a front engine plate from Mancini (made by a member here) and some used fenderwell headers. Tons of room, no steering issues even with column shift, spark plugs are easy, etc. Only issue is to run a short front tire to help the turn radius. This is what I did and was very user friendly and not expensive
 
A big block in a Duster doesn't sound budget orientated to me.
This is why i'm giving up on mine, thousands and thousands in parts and i still don't have everything i need. I didn't even want to put a 440 in mine but a MH 440 was the cheapest engine i could get.
 
This is why i'm giving up on mine, thousands and thousands in parts and i still don't have everything i need. I didn't even want to put a 440 in mine but a MH 440 was the cheapest engine i could get.
unless you are trying to make it look factory stock, what is the hiccup? It might help the OP also, so as to not totally hijack this. I have done it without issue.
 
Last two major pieces i needed was front brake conversion and rear axles for LBP, the axles got backordered at doctor diff but if i used SBP axles i would need new brake setups. Then i realized i also really should have frame connectors and torque boxes.
around this time my 78 Ford engine started rod knocking and it's a running driving vehicle so it has taken priority over the Duster.

Unfortunately OP is on the other side of the country otherwise i would let my BB 727 go for cheap.
 
Pick up a front engine plate from Mancini (made by a member here) and some used fenderwell headers. Tons of room, no steering issues even with column shift, spark plugs are easy, etc. Only issue is to run a short front tire to help the turn radius. This is what I did and was very user friendly and not expensive
Do you have the link for it? I cant seem to find it on their website. Thank you
 
Last two major pieces i needed was front brake conversion and rear axles for LBP, the axles got backordered at doctor diff but if i used SBP axles i would need new brake setups. Then i realized i also really should have frame connectors and torque boxes.
around this time my 78 Ford engine started rod knocking and it's a running driving vehicle so it has taken priority over the Duster.

Unfortunately OP is on the other side of the country otherwise i would let my BB 727 go for cheap.
FYI, small pattern axles, no subframe connectors and torque boxes shouldn't be a deal breaker. Dad raced my car for 10 years without any of it. Would it have been better or stronger, yes, but it is done often enough that it shouldn't stop the build or driving it. I guess it depends on the individual build. I just swapped the rear axles and brakes on my car this last fall. Still small pattern on the front. I am sure the OP will not have the HP to worry about breaking stuff much.
 
Keep in mind if you decide to change the output shaft and the tailshaft housing you can use one from a small block 727.
 
FYI, small pattern axles, no subframe connectors and torque boxes shouldn't be a deal breaker. Dad raced my car for 10 years without any of it. Would it have been better or stronger, yes, but it is done often enough that it shouldn't stop the build or driving it. I guess it depends on the individual build. I just swapped the rear axles and brakes on my car this last fall. Still small pattern on the front. I am sure the OP will not have the HP to worry about breaking stuff much.
I had given thought to it but i've really lost my desire to keep putting money into it unfortunately. Might buy a nice Cordoba and throw the 440 into one if I really get the itch again.
 
These type of swaps are never simple especially when you don't have much experience.
The first mistake is trying to do this with a "small budget" mindset. Things are always much more expensive than you think, especially if this is the first time doing this. A lot of things like cooling system, brake system suspension wiring, shifting linkage, engine accessory brackets, belts and on. Does the engine even run good ? Condition of the spark plugs, engine leak down/ compression test.
Verify the engine and trans condition before you start. May be installing a problem.
 
Agreed, especially for a motorhome engine you should at least rering/bearing the engine but also check the taper/bore because these things do get beat. Swapping the tailshaft also lets you look at the internal state of the transmission which could also be beat. Just my thoughts.
My 440 had 30,000 miles on it and it was on the very edge of acceptable bore specs etc. While this is leaving the scope of the original question I think it's important to share.
 
No kidding...I keep saying to change the tailshaft and tailhousing; to be able to use a stock driveshaft.. I've seen tons of cobbled up jobs that were meant to save money and trouble; but just ended up costing more and not working out. Wouldn't it be hilarious if the op makes up a special driveshaft ($$$), then finds out the trans has to come apart anyway?
 
No kidding...I keep saying to change the tailshaft and tailhousing; to be able to use a stock driveshaft.. I've seen tons of cobbled up jobs that were meant to save money and trouble; but just ended up costing more and not working out. Wouldn't it be hilarious if the op makes up a special driveshaft ($$$), then finds out the trans has to come apart anyway?
Sorry, this was my confusion as to what you were saying in regards to changing the length and/or using a stock driveshaft. We were saying the same thing.
 
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