MSD E-curve Distributor Set Up???

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I myself don't need a Rev limiter. Just my Tachometer w/ shift light and my b&m shifter. I have never blown an engine on any of my many cars I've built. You can also get used to the sound of the engine as well. Most times I don't even have to look. But for safety purposes and cost then i'd go with the e-curve. The add on ones are for when you already have a set up and need to add it to what you already have.
 
I myself don't need a Rev limiter. Just my Tachometer w/ shift light and my b&m shifter. I have never blown an engine on any of my many cars I've built. You can also get used to the sound of the engine as well. Most times I don't even have to look. But for safety purposes and cost then i'd go with the e-curve. The add on ones are for when you already have a set up and need to add it to what you already have.

I use to be the same way on all my stuff. Revv Limiter who needs them. One sunny afternoon was running around with my 340 Swinger with a 4spd. I missed a shift to 2nd.... Threw a Rod, dropped a valve and took out a cylinder. Blew it up bad. So from then on. I revv limit everything. Driveline breaks and you could be in the same boat in a NY Minute.
 
I use to be the same way on all my stuff. Revv Limiter who needs them. One sunny afternoon was running around with my 340 Swinger with a 4spd. I missed a shift to 2nd.... Threw a Rod, dropped a valve and took out a cylinder. Blew it up bad. So from then on. I revv limit everything. Driveline breaks and you could be in the same boat in a NY Minute.


Yeah, your right I can see that........ I have raced a couple of 2000 mustangCobra R's
The third gear was notorious for engagement issues. After a couple of rebuilds on the trannies I swapped out the shifter with a steeda short shifter with a custom plate and springs to assist in and out of third gear. Fixed the problem.

I may end up throwing together a safety stop up in the carb linkage to limit the rpm when the throttle is yanked open. Either that or in the throttle cable linkage itself.
Haven't decided yet. Don't like the electronic rev limiters as its one more piece of modern tech to hide...... I like old school custom do it yourself fab on my car as it was what the guys did in that era...... Not that My MSD stuff looks like its even remotely from that era..... Just don't want mine looking too modern
 
Yeah, your right I can see that........ I have raced a couple of 2000 mustangCobra R's
The third gear was notorious for engagement issues. After a couple of rebuilds on the trannies I swapped out the shifter with a steeda short shifter with a custom plate and springs to assist in and out of third gear. Fixed the problem.

I may end up throwing together a safety stop up in the carb linkage to limit the rpm when the throttle is yanked open. Either that or in the throttle cable linkage itself.
Haven't decided yet. Don't like the electronic rev limiters as its one more piece of modern tech to hide...... I like old school custom do it yourself fab on my car as it was what the guys did in that era...... Not that My MSD stuff looks like its even remotely from that era..... Just don't want mine looking too modern

I know what you are talking about. I seen a members old school set up that he mounted in his console for a 2 step and rev limiter all home made. there are a couple switches in there too for Nos line lock etc. He used some dials, pots & diodes and a positive stop set up to lock in the dials once set. All hidden so you can't see anything. It for sure is some cool looking chit.
 
what is the smallest amount of inital timing setting in the E CURVE dizzy ??? any one know?? i have a small C,I early dodge hemi 241 C,I in my street rod ,,that requires less inital timing then a bigger C,I motor,,and a small block dizzy drops right in,, thanks for any in fo,,
 

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My 406 I run all in with start retard. 34total I believe. Don't quote me. Been a couple years.
 
He has made some claims that don't hold water.... Period! For example his fancy Carb spacer will get you 20 more HP on the dyno. I think mine made 20 HP less with it. Took it off and there was more power everywhere and torque than with the spacer. I told him that and man we got in a BIG hissy fit on the phone. I had the Dyno Sheets to back it up too. Salesman is all I can say.
lmao,dyno's don't lie!!!!!
 
Did Tom build your motor? Tuning it? :thumbsup:
Tom built my exhaust and we are gonna take a swing at playing around with the different advance curves built into the MSD distributor.

It's going on a chassis dyno next week and I'd like to get the timing sorted out before I start paying someone $100/hr to tune it and they just scratch their heads because they've "never tuned one with that distributor before".
 
Tom built my exhaust and we are gonna take a swing at playing around with the different advance curves built into the MSD distributor.

It's going on a chassis dyno next week and I'd like to get the timing sorted out before I start paying someone $100/hr to tune it and they just scratch their heads because they've "never tuned one with that distributor before".

Good idea.

One of the problems I found (noted in post above) that I had to remove 2-3 plug wires and rotate the distributor to get the cap off. This meant I had to loose my baseline timing just to change the dials for a curve change.

I have a 3 speed wiper motor that got in the way.

If you run into this same problem, I'd take the wiper motor off before you pay someone $100/hr to fiddle with that. It will really slow them down. Is the dyno guy familiar with that distributor?

I think there are some advantages to tuning it driving around town in the type of drive cycle you will be typically using the car. I don't know a dyno is going to catch an off idle light acceleration stumble. That's a typical stoplight to spotlight situation. And that may be more important to you than getting an extra 3 hp at 4800-5000 rpm.

Take great detailed notes of Tom's tuning. So if you want to go back to his tune, you can 100% replicate it. He's more accomplished than that machine with two spinning drums on it.
 
I can get the cap off and on without too much trouble but it is tight. I set the dials to 7 & 1 and hooked up a ported vacuum line to the nipple that is hidden on the bottom side of the distributor and isn't even mentioned in the instructions???? According to my calculations this should give me 20 degrees initial with 15 degrees advance at 2500 and 10 degrees of vacuum advance at 4 lbs vacuum for part throttle driveability. This helped a little with around town driving , but I didn't notice anything at WOT. I'm going to put a timing light back on it and see if advancing the total timing will help.

The tuner has limited experience with the E curve, that's why I'm trying to get the timing sorted out before I take it the chassis dyno.
 
I can get the cap off and on without too much trouble but it is tight. I set the dials to 7 & 1 and hooked up a ported vacuum line to the nipple that is hidden on the bottom side of the distributor and isn't even mentioned in the instructions???? According to my calculations this should give me 20 degrees initial with 15 degrees advance at 2500 and 10 degrees of vacuum advance at 4 lbs vacuum for part throttle driveability. This helped a little with around town driving , but I didn't notice anything at WOT. I'm going to put a timing light back on it and see if advancing the total timing will help.

The tuner has limited experience with the E curve, that's why I'm trying to get the timing sorted out before I take it the chassis dyno.

20 and 15 sounds very familiar. I don't have my notes handy. 35 total will make my car ping up the steep hill out of town on a hot day. 91 So Cal gas with 9.7:1 and aluminum heads. So I've turned everything back 3 degrees to 32 IIRC. Still starts excellent.

For me, adjusting the throttle blade position at idle just 1/8th turns helps dial out off idle light acceleration stumble. Also float level.

My car also likes Autolite plugs vs
Champions.
 
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