I'm hoping, but the red car with a white racing stripe kinda blows the whole incognito theme. As does the 2 1/2 single straight through exhaust.LOL......Now we're old and grey so they don't care anymore.
my 1st 340....yea
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My hands are so mangled up, I usually don't feel it when I cut them any more. My kids thought I was an alien.
Ha never thought this was going to be so much fun
To be forged or not to be
.....
To be forged or not to be
.....
For what you want anything will be fine. Cast 72 OEM pistons going in my 69 340. We can always dicker over the smallest things. You just need to figure out who really knows what they are talking about... Good luck.
Yea ....
Im going cast most likely
not racing stock every thing
Forged are better and much better then they were in the seventies
After my machine shop gets back to me I'll see what's avaliable
Im going cast most likely
not racing stock every thing
Forged are better and much better then they were in the seventies
After my machine shop gets back to me I'll see what's avaliable
Ha back in the days when I worked in the tire shop we would have a first blood compilation
Who got first for the day ,most blood ,and facial blood was a winner.....not many spots on my hands that aren't scared
Its rare to bleed anymore
i had a 69 amx back in the 80s with line lock
on main in nj someone talked me into using it when i was parked in a spot
smoke cleared 2 min later a cop comes up to me ,thought i was busted ....he goes nice car ...ha
Loved those AMX's I had a mid 70's AMX with the fiberglass hood and a 360. Sold it and kept the 64 Barracuda. I swapped an 8 1/4 rear into the 64 Barracuda with 3.21 gears, and of course had to see the difference in acceleration. So I punched and power shifted into second, then left off since I was in town. Cop came screaming up behind me lights blazing. He gets out and he wants to write me up bad, but must not have clocked me, so he had to let me go.
Any blood was an extra $5 charge. I bleed, I just don't feel it till it gets sticky. We wore white shirts and my boss, Jack, would give you a hard time if you got it dirty.
Wow what did you work on ?
Its not easy to keep white clean in this biz
Everything i work on is rust or oilly
Its not easy to keep white clean in this biz
Everything i work on is rust or oilly
I still have a 69
Had 2 took all the stock parts to build one the worked 390 In that one i still have with the rear with 456 and the trans it's the body and interior are mostly junk i need to clean them and sell
It was a small Chrysler Plymouth dealership. You just always had to be aware. Jack was one of the best. He could tell you what was wrong with any car by make, year and what the problem was, right off the top of his head. And he would be right.
The hot one is how I lost my 69 dart gt
Guy needed a daily driver so we traded +some $$$
And I just bought a new 84 Daytona turbo.....what a pos that thing was
Guy needed a daily driver so we traded +some $$$
And I just bought a new 84 Daytona turbo.....what a pos that thing was
My younger brother had one of those. In the shop every week till I had had enough and worked on it myself. Never went back to the shop after that. That shop must have been crooked.
Bought it new
Red /red ....
On the way home 12mile speedo broke ...wtf
Had it back to the dealer 3 times for speedo problems
It would randomly jump out of 5th
One day driving past the dealer 5th started grinding.....
It would randomly dump black smoke ...turns out it was a one year only computer system
When it ran good it was fun
Traded it in on a leftover 86 vette
Speedo said 40k think it was around 80
Still have the vette with 36k on it
Red /red ....
On the way home 12mile speedo broke ...wtf
Had it back to the dealer 3 times for speedo problems
It would randomly jump out of 5th
One day driving past the dealer 5th started grinding.....
It would randomly dump black smoke ...turns out it was a one year only computer system
When it ran good it was fun
Traded it in on a leftover 86 vette
Speedo said 40k think it was around 80
Still have the vette with 36k on it
I have built a number of 340's for my Formula S. I raced the original for years with no issues turning a best of 13.48@105.38 at OCIR. I collected 2 other 340's when they were cheap and kept them for spares in case I broke the original. Never happened. had over 350 runs on the original engine.
My recommendations are to do the minimal machining necessary to restore the block and heads. Both my rebuilds were +0.020" which was an available O/S piston in the 1980's. Not sure they are now, but this allows you to go to +0.030 in the future. A +0.020" 340 is a +0.060" 360. But deck height is different.
Try to keep the highest compression ration possible without milling heads. 10.25:1 was stock. If you mill the heads, make sure the intake faces are also milled to assure proper manifold alignment.
Keep the cam in the 284/484 or lower range for good street manners.
Check the vibration damper for TDC and use timing tape or a degreed damper to make sure you have accurate total advance timing.
Recurve the distributor for 11° Distributor advance (22° crankshaft advance) so you can run about 12° initial advance. This gives great starting and idle characteristics. My 340 starts in half a crank most of the time.
Run an aluminum intake for weight reduction.
Headers are not really that important on this type of engine, but stock manifolds are expensive if you don't have them.
Clean up the ports at the inlet and bowl areas as best you can. Lots of casting and machining flaws here that hurt flow. Have a 3-5 angle valve job done for better low lift flow. Run an AVS2 for good street manners if you don't have the original AVS.
I have heads, distributor and valve covers if needed.
Stock cooling should work but run a viscous drive 5 blade radiator fan and shroud. A higher volume water pump would be good if you can get one, otherwise stock is fine.
Be careful with the bypass hose if you use the 3/4" factory one as they can burst under pressure (read high RPM). Had this happen at OCIR once and warped the head a little. Silicone hoses would be best if you can get them. Otherwise convert to the 1" hose which is stock for all 1970+ engines.
Best of luck with the 340. They are fun to drive and rev to 6500 real nicely and sound delicious doing it.
My recommendations are to do the minimal machining necessary to restore the block and heads. Both my rebuilds were +0.020" which was an available O/S piston in the 1980's. Not sure they are now, but this allows you to go to +0.030 in the future. A +0.020" 340 is a +0.060" 360. But deck height is different.
Try to keep the highest compression ration possible without milling heads. 10.25:1 was stock. If you mill the heads, make sure the intake faces are also milled to assure proper manifold alignment.
Keep the cam in the 284/484 or lower range for good street manners.
Check the vibration damper for TDC and use timing tape or a degreed damper to make sure you have accurate total advance timing.
Recurve the distributor for 11° Distributor advance (22° crankshaft advance) so you can run about 12° initial advance. This gives great starting and idle characteristics. My 340 starts in half a crank most of the time.
Run an aluminum intake for weight reduction.
Headers are not really that important on this type of engine, but stock manifolds are expensive if you don't have them.
Clean up the ports at the inlet and bowl areas as best you can. Lots of casting and machining flaws here that hurt flow. Have a 3-5 angle valve job done for better low lift flow. Run an AVS2 for good street manners if you don't have the original AVS.
I have heads, distributor and valve covers if needed.
Stock cooling should work but run a viscous drive 5 blade radiator fan and shroud. A higher volume water pump would be good if you can get one, otherwise stock is fine.
Be careful with the bypass hose if you use the 3/4" factory one as they can burst under pressure (read high RPM). Had this happen at OCIR once and warped the head a little. Silicone hoses would be best if you can get them. Otherwise convert to the 1" hose which is stock for all 1970+ engines.
Best of luck with the 340. They are fun to drive and rev to 6500 real nicely and sound delicious doing it.
Yes going to sorce a stock avs
Going to run stock intake and exhaust
Just want the factory (feel) of the engine...I could use the oe valve covers if want can pm me
Have a dual point dist coming
Need coil mount , carb linkage ect.
Getting k frame and rear tomorrow
Going to run stock intake and exhaust
Just want the factory (feel) of the engine...I could use the oe valve covers if want can pm me
Have a dual point dist coming
Need coil mount , carb linkage ect.
Getting k frame and rear tomorrow
69 manual 340 AVS?
Yes that's what I'm looking for
Don't care if 68 69 or 70 as long as it looks like a 69
Don't care if 68 69 or 70 as long as it looks like a 69
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I'll check my stash.
moper
Well-Known Member
Given what you have, I would talk to your machinist on exactly what you need and want and can spend. Ultimately it’s that person that will be taking a solid chuck of money from you and has to actually deliver on it.
You “don’t” need much more than you have on your posts. But some wearables and things to make it appear “correct” if you want that will be needed. Assuming the parts you got are as described and usable.
It’s always a rush to get new stuff and make plans. But step out of the emotion and make solid decisions when building it.
You “don’t” need much more than you have on your posts. But some wearables and things to make it appear “correct” if you want that will be needed. Assuming the parts you got are as described and usable.
It’s always a rush to get new stuff and make plans. But step out of the emotion and make solid decisions when building it.
Well done on finding a good 340 core, they are hard to find now.
I was at the Spring Fling in 2009 and there was one there for sale.
It was $1000 on the Saturday and by Sunday afternoon it was $500.
Still didn't sell, how mad is that?
No factory forged pistons and cast crank from 1972 onwards.
Most have been bored to the 'Max' by now so you is very lucky indeed.
Never seen a broke cast crank, big or small block!
But I guess the guys running fast don't use them?
Good luck with the rebuild, the 915 heads are truly magnificent.
But a pair of Speedmasters are ready to run outta the box ' $1000.
Eagle rods are cheap and good pistons are $500.
Must be able to do a full rebuild under $4000???
I was at the Spring Fling in 2009 and there was one there for sale.
It was $1000 on the Saturday and by Sunday afternoon it was $500.
Still didn't sell, how mad is that?
No factory forged pistons and cast crank from 1972 onwards.
Most have been bored to the 'Max' by now so you is very lucky indeed.
Never seen a broke cast crank, big or small block!
But I guess the guys running fast don't use them?
Good luck with the rebuild, the 915 heads are truly magnificent.
But a pair of Speedmasters are ready to run outta the box ' $1000.
Eagle rods are cheap and good pistons are $500.
Must be able to do a full rebuild under $4000???
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I do not have an extra manual trans AVS. Look for 4424s (68), 4611s (69), 4933s or 4936s (70). I have extra 340 Auto trans AVSs, but I'd hold out for a manual trans AVS.
LJ67barracuda340
Well-Known Member
That's what I was going to say about the cast pistons. They went cast in 72 when the compression went to 8.5. I bought my stock 68 340 in 1976 from a wrecking yard for $100 complete. Guy traded it for a 318 because he couldn't make it idle and run smooth. When I took it apart it had a ,,,,, wait for it,,,, broke forged crank .Well done on finding a good 340 core, they are hard to find now.
I was at the Spring Fling in 2009 and there was one there for sale.
It was $1000 on the Saturday and by Sunday afternoon it was $500.
Still didn't sell, how mad is that?
No factory forged pistons and cast crank from 1972 onwards.
Most have been bored to the 'Max' by now so you is very lucky indeed.
Never seen a broke cast crank, big or small block!
But I guess the guys running fast don't use them?
Good luck with the rebuild, the 915 heads are truly magnificent.
But a pair of Speedmasters are ready to run outta the box ' $1000.
Eagle rods are cheap and good pistons are $500.
Must be able to do a full rebuild under $4000???
Ouch....
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