my 1st 340....yea

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nutz

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so 6hr drive and a tank of gas $1500 and i have a real 69 340 .for 69dart swap
is funny cause i feel like a new dad ,just like my 1st kid ,i aways wanted a boy not sure if hes going to be any good .bur either way hes going to cost me $$$$$$$
nice guy bought it for his 69 cuda convert 4spd (one of 20) then found a closer match
so being a new dad i have more questions then answers
first is the block ,he said its 20 over gave me the (stock??) pistons and rods with an extra set of pistons and rods
so 30 over is ok?....plan is to build a "stock" 69 340 . is a 69 340 block ?

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next since i'm going "stock" i should be fine with cast pistons ,any brand of pistons/rings i should source
he did have the steel crank cut 10
he gave me these rods /and an extra set ,i guess they should be fine ? (going to have my machine shop check them)
are 340 rods different then others ,
he gave me the dampner ...so the steel cranks are external balanced ?? ...then i need to find a flywheel ...before i have it balanced !

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ok now timing cover and front stuff
he gave me this cover going to run ps ,so need pulleys and stuff are all 273/318/340 stuff the same and what years (someone posted in my swap questions)
is this the right cover and oil pan

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Timing cover is 70 & up...Timing mark is on the passenger side for 69... Forged crank is internally balanced which it looks like your damper is.... Cast pistons is original..
 
now these are the heads think he said 73??
i would like to keep the build as close to stock but not a numbers car so other then 340 stuff never going to be true
is there any reason not to use them they do look like 202s
i don't have rockers /push rods any timing stuff cam ect. but as long as a use a "stock" grind not planning on racing it (looking for stock intake ,carb ,exhaust )
going to run points (were they dual point)
are the valve spring any good (my machine shop friend said mopar spings suck) not planning on reving over 5500
going to have him do hardened seats /exhaust valves
thanks for everyones input

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The '69 and back pulleys have different offsets then '70 and up pulleys. I don't think '69 and back pulleys are reproduced. Aftermarket tends to cater to the '70 and up pulleys.

Also AC and non AC cars tend to have different pulleys.
 
Timing cover is 70 & up...Timing mark is on the passenger side for 69... Forged crank is internally balanced which it looks like your damper is.... Cast pistons is original..
ok so need to find older cover (any 69 or older ?)
 
Heads are 915 which started in 70 but would have a J by the spark plugs... Those have O by the plug which probably is 72-73.. Should have 1.88 valves...
 
Timing cover is wrong, see post #8. I'm building a 69/70 340 myself. Rods should be bronze bushed on the small end forging # 2899496 or 3418645. Only 360's and cast crank 340's are externally balanced. 273's, 318's and forged crank 340's are all internally balanced. No need to spend a lot on a 340, they came with all the good stuff. What are the casting # are on the heads? Any 340 forged crank should be good, just go to the next size bearings till it cleans up, if needed. Magneflux the crank, heads, and block before putting any money into them.
 

"O" heads should be 70 with 2.02 intake valves, that is also easy to measure. 340 springs are most likely good, your friend does not know what he is talking about. Easy to test.
 
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Heads are 915 which started in 70 but would have a J by the spark plugs... Those have O by the plug which probably is 72-73.. Should have 1.88 valves...

"O" heads should be 70 with 2.02 intake valves, that is also easy to measure. 340 springs are most likely good, your friend does not know what he is talking about. East to test.
yeah hes not a mopar specilist ,but has been doing it for 45 years ......look like 202s going to have him do them

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Pistons were cast, all the same from 68-71. Forged crank to part way through 72, forged rods.
both set of pistons are cast ...so staying with cast ...and i guess no need to source a flywheel before i send the crank out for balancing
these are the rods both free floating

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69 340 would have 894 X heads and just not worth the $ to put them on. Stupid money for essentially the same thing that you have in the 915 heads, other than the X instead of O, J letter etc. 340 Springs if they test good are fine for most mild hyd cams for a streeter

You have a good base of parts to get a OEM style build together. Balancer is a internal balance piece as Randy (1Wild) mentioned, hopefully the crank matches.

No need for the flywheel to balance an internal set up, except to check the actual flywheel balance job. Buy a neutral balance flywheel for a 4 speed, done
 
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