My 318....Is no more..... :(

-
HMMM, first time i saw this thread for some reason. I watched your video, My 440 was making the same noise, (squeal, metal on metal bearing wearing out noise)

Drove me crazy, it would make the noise after it was shifted from park to reverse or nuetral into drive, with a pause when it shifted. Thought it may be the thrust bearing or the input shaft bearing. I listened all over the engine with a wood dowel, couldnt figure out where it was coming from.

I disconnected all the belts in front and it still made the noise. It sounded like it was coming from the rear, when you got underneath.

This was about a month after i bought the car, there was a oil change sticker in the window, from a Chevy dealer, the engine had 5/30 in it.

It was about time to change the oil, the car had a blue Goodwrench filter on it. I drained it and put 15/40 in it and a NAPA 1515 filter.

The sound went away after the oil change, i tore the oil filter apart to see if it was collapsed but it seemed ok, it did have a few metal particles in it, YIKES. and the day after i changed the oil, i started the motor in the morning, and it had a stuck, or something in a lifter as it tapped for a few seconds.

It hasnt made that weird noise since i have been using 15/40 in the motor. Dont know if it was thin oil or a bad filter, strange.
 
Got the pistons/rods installed. I put a new bronze bushing in for the intermediate shaft, and noticed that my intermediate shaft was bent, it had a very slight, bow, if you will. I put it in the oil pump and rotated it, and noticed it had a slight oblong rotation...So I ordered a new one...

IMG_1422.jpg


IMG_1423.jpg


IMG_1424.jpg


Once my new oil pump drive shaft comes in today, I'll install the cam/lifters and timing chain.
 
Well, after attempting to bolt on my cylinder heads and roller rockers, I found that all my valves, springs and retainers are all out of wack, because the rocker arms were having interference problems...WTF?

After taking a straight edge and resting it on the valves, none of them are the same length, and same for the retainers, which again, no two are the same length...WTF???

qz3mnr.jpg


2zpl7wx.jpg


2mqj2fn.jpg


So, I'm tired of monkeying around with this horseshit and running into all the little damn frustrating problems...I'm thinking of buying a set of RHS heads complete from Brian...I'd rather not spend the money on a valve job on these pieces of **** out of wack waste of time junk mopar paper weight heads! So mad right now...
 
James,

Sounds like a machinist question. Call Brian and see what he says!

Are you running the 273 adjustable rockers? Are they hitting the springs?
 
James,

Sounds like a machinist question. Call Brian and see what he says!

Are you running the 273 adjustable rockers? Are they hitting the springs?

Hey buddy...No, I'm using the 1.5 PRW adj. roller rockers that I just got today in the mail, from another member...After attempting to install them, I noticed they would need clearancing done to some of them, so thats when I took a straight edge to all of the valves...and found what I found lol They hit the retainers...

108ejpf.jpg
 
Isn't that compensated for by the hydraulic lifters or valve lash adjustment?
 
Isn't that compensated for by the hydraulic lifters or valve lash adjustment?

Depending on how much the difference is it could change the CC of each cylinder if the valves are SUNK different on each one. Lets say Cyl #1 is 62cc and Cyl #2 is 65 because of the difference you would have a different compression in each cylinder. Not that you couldn't adjust the Rocker to compensate for different valve heights. Even so still the CC of each chamber would be different. Since it is not a super crazy build I don't know if it would matter, better to ask a machinist/engine builder like Brian at IMM. He also has other issues of the Rocker arm hitting the Retainers on some of them. I would say the spring heights are different proving the theory that some of the valves are SUNK into the valve seats more than others.
 
Depending on how much the difference is it could change the CC of each cylinder if the valves are SUNK different on each one. Lets say Cyl #1 is 62cc and Cyl #2 is 65 because of the difference you would have a different compression in each cylinder. Not that you couldn't adjust the Rocker to compensate for different valve heights. Even so still the CC of each chamber would be different. Since it is not a super crazy build I don't know if it would matter, better to ask a machinist/engine builder like Brian at IMM. He also has other issues of the Rocker arm hitting the Retainers on some of them. I would say the spring heights are different proving the theory that some of the valves are SUNK into the valve seats more than others.

Hey Mad, I sent Brian a PM, and I'll give him a call tomorrow as well. I'm also thinking about conical seat springs to give me clearance for the rocker arms..Not sure what the mopar crowd thinks of those...
 
Hey Mad, I sent Brian a PM, and I'll give him a call tomorrow as well. I'm also thinking about conical seat springs to give me clearance for the rocker arms..Not sure what the mopar crowd thinks of those...

Brian uses bee-hive springs on the RHS Heads. If you go that route I think some machining will need to be done on the heads for them to work.

I have 2 Sets of RHS heads from Brian with these springs. I run the piss out of my 410 and have revved it to over 7200RPM on accident and it was CLEAN with NO Float of the valves just to let you know!
 
Okay, Just an update, it has been 3 months. LOL. The engine has sat in my living room just chillin. Now I'm back at it...I bought me a set of those RHS heads from Brian at IMM. 202/160 valves, with beehive springs. Also, I sold my PRW roller rockers and decided to go with the Hughes 1.5 units. I also got rid of the performer manifold, and got an RPM unit instead...I thought this would be a better thing to do than try and mess with factory heads, and trying to mill them a bunch...Now I know I have a true 62cc chamber, which will also raise my compression to 9 to 1...Can't complain...

2mw9q1j.jpg


2a8micn.jpg


344w5rk.jpg


2m49myr.jpg


105pgnd.jpg


....More to come
 
WOOHOO, glad to see your back at it James, I have been patiently waiting.

NOW GET TO WORK!
 
looks sweet James....glad its coming together for ya buddy.

ought to be pretty peppy too!
 
I am confused, isn't that an aluminum headed stroker in your signature? Is this for another car that I somehow missed or do you collect multiple motors for the same car like Louis? Haha just kidding Maddart.
 
I am confused, isn't that an aluminum headed stroker in your signature? Is this for another car that I somehow missed or do you collect multiple motors for the same car like Louis? Haha just kidding Maddart.


Yes, the aluminum headed stroker is for my full tilt 70 Dart build. RMS Alterktion front end, narrowed Strange S60 with street linx rear, frame connectors and roll cage, bucket seats and 4 speed...Hope to run low 11's in the quarter, and also do a little bit of autocross/road race with it...

This 318 you see here, is for my 68 cuda fastback build, with factory style rebuilt suspension, disc brakes, set up for mild road racing...trying to copy Steve (AutoXcuda). LOL
 
Dang Mopardude those heads and rockers sure are purdy. Oh yeah, haven't you heard that those 318's are boat anchors? Lol Just kidding. I love the 318s and your cuda' should be running great.
 
those adjusters stick up as high as the empire state building.

Have measured for the push rod length?

I knew someone was gonna say somethin about that! lol

My friend, who builds many engines, and works at Dinan (High performance engine builder for BMW's) helped me with the rocker arm setup. His reasoning for them like that is less stress on the adjuster when having higher lift cams...How true or valid that is, I don't know...But works for me...I trust his work, He's the one that finished the top end on my 408 stroker, and dyno'd it for me...
 
-
Back
Top