My 318....Is no more..... :(

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DusterDude72 said:
the rule of thumb is to give someone an idea of how low of an oil pressure would be safe at an idle.....saying that 1,000 rpm and having about 10 psi of oil pressure would be "safe" and not have to worry about engine failure....not necessarily 10 psi for every thousand RPM's as thats not the case with every engine.....depends on if its factory pump or high volume or high pressure or how many miles are on an engine ect...ect...

I am not saying that 70 psi is "too high" of oil pressure....what I am saying is that if he is running a stock pump than 70 psi sounds to high and that it could possibly be a spun bearing or something and an oil hole is plugged which could be raising the oil pressure.

In my personal experiences factory 318's and 360 on average run around 25-40 psi at an idle and at about 2,000-3,000 rpms they run about 50 psi of oil pressure and at the max with the pedal to the medal the most I normally see them run for PSI on average is about 60 psi.

these are not exact numbers and these are numbers based on stock oiling systems .
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I was just thumbing thru my factory 66 manual for something else and I saw that on a new/reconditioned engine fully warmed up it should have 50-70 psi at 1500rpm.....
 
belmateo said:
I only mentioned it because there is nothing else in your motor that I can think of that would make noise and not show any metal shaving in the oil. On my recent 340 build I installed a new bushing and it was very tight. As I told you in the previous post, you may want to check your transmission oil for tell tale signs of any problems. When you took it out for a drive did it make the noise right away after it warmed up? Did the transmission seem to work properly (shifted normal, went into gear right away) things like that?
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Here we go again, and while you're at it go ahead and pull the diff apart, that noise could be travelling up the driveshaft and into your engine.
 
belmateo said:
Since you found no traces of any metal in the oil and you have great oil pressure, I suspect the transmission pump. Have you listened near the pump on the trans? Did you check the transmission oil? What color is it now? Does it smell bad?
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My transmission seemed fine. No burnt oil smell, it shifted fine, didn't make any noise, the oil is red like normal. I have not checked the front pump yet though...
 
Also, I noticed that my fuel pump had alot of rust coming out of it as I tapped it in my hand...SO...............I pulled the fuel tank and found it was rusty as hell inside, and my fuel sender was all jacked up, and my little 5/16 lines were shot...So, I'm getting a new tank and upgrade to 3/8 sender and 3/8 lines..

Guess this explains why my gauge didn't work. LOL
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Damn,that looks like my semding unit when I took it out,lol.Only I still had the screen on the filter.My brass float was the same,full of holes.I plan on getting a new tank also:read2:
 
Have you checked your brakes for squealling?LOL Just kidding.Man your jumping in,I didn,t think you were gonna get in this deep $$$.Seems you,ve found othe issues that need attention also and will only help your car perform better/longer.:read2:
 
If the engine has got to warm up alittle to make the noise , i would rule out bearing noise , i would sooner sooner say it was torque convertor, cracked flex plate ect
 
That is a very good price for that gas tank, I paid more then that for mine. The pickup size for your engine is a not a big deal. Your gas gauge not working will soon be fixed as long as you remember to reinstall the ground strap that you removed before taking the sending unit out. Man, I hope you figure out this noise issue before the cruise so we can see your car. It is coming along really nice, keep up the good work!
 
My float arms look a little shorter than yours
when I get back I will post a couple pics. The newer style has a return line also but not on yours
 
just wondering if you noticed any markings on the side of the fuel pump arm?

I notice that all kragen fuel pumps that I have used with billet double roller chains always have a groove worn into the side of the arm from the chain.
 
kt340sport said:
If the engine has got to warm up alittle to make the noise , i would rule out bearing noise , i would sooner sooner say it was torque convertor, cracked flex plate ect
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I checked the flexplate, there are no cracks, not bent. I'm not sure on the condition of my torque converter, and I do not know what stall it is...

belmateo said:
That is a very good price for that gas tank, I paid more then that for mine. The pickup size for your engine is a not a big deal. Your gas gauge not working will soon be fixed as long as you remember to reinstall the ground strap that you removed before taking the sending unit out. Man, I hope you figure out this noise issue before the cruise so we can see your car. It is coming along really nice, keep up the good work!
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Thanks Guy! I'm gonna order the stuff from VansAuto, but a little weary cuz I've never ordered from them...I hope they aren't like some of the other mopar restoration parts dealers, where they take months to get stuff from...

Mad Dart said:
My float arms look a little shorter than yours
when I get back I will post a couple pics. The newer style has a return line also but not on yours
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Oh, okay thanks Louis

1wild&crazyguy said:
just wondering if you noticed any markings on the side of the fuel pump arm?

I notice that all kragen fuel pumps that I have used with billet double roller chains always have a groove worn into the side of the arm from the chain.
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Okay, good to know. I checked the fuel pump and the only wear I could find was normal from the eccentric...
 
A few more parts came yesterday evening too...Mopar Performance viscous fan, windage tray, summit dampener, and Mr. Gasket 180 deg. thermostat...

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Darn nice looking parts!!!

I just took a 360 AMC to the machine shop last week, I pulled it out of a 1971 pick-up this guy at work wanted me to o/haul for him. Surprisingly very little cylinder wall wear. It had 1 bad cam lobe. Kind of a greasy mess, soon to change when the machining is done. Then the fun begins! You know, this AMC 360 is quite a beast as well, valley pan gasket built into the intake manifold gasket, windage tray built into the oil pan, forged crank and beefy bottom end. To me, it's down fall is the oil pump is part of the front timing cover, which the cover is alluminum. I need to find a new front cover for it.
 
My new gas tank, 3/8" sending unit, ground strap, and rubber grommit came today. Purchased through Vans Auto, took 5 days. Prices were great, and shipping was fast. I recommend them to everyone.

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That sending unit looks just like the 2 that I have. The one in your picture has a return line. Are you just going to plug it? I noticed your old one in the picture does not have a return.
 
Mad Dart said:
That sending unit looks just like the 2 that I have. The one in your picture has a return line. Are you just going to plug it? I noticed your old one in the picture does not have a return.
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I'm not sure what I'm gonna do yet...Plug it or run a return line...What do you guys think is a good idea?
 
Tonight I cleaned my block again after I honed it, polished the journals on my crank, and installed the main bearings and caps, all torqued to spec with the proper crankshaft end play set. Spins freely, no tight spots. Tomorrow I'll continue with the rods and pistons. It got late...

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