My 318....Is no more..... :(

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mopardude318 said:
Thanks DusterDude72!! I'm gettin there!!



Yes...Now I'm looking at my tranny...haha....Thinking to myself if I should do a quick rebuild, add a shift kit and torque converter.. hahahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaa OMG this has to stop!!....

For real now, what harmonic balancer should I get? A factory replacement, or a used one from this site, a summit one, a fluid dampener, ATI...What should I get? I THINK this engine is externally balanced because of the cast crank...and when I get a new one, I dont need the engine rebalanced, correct?
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318s are internally balanced, cast or forged.
 
seems like somewhere I read that cast 318 cranks were externally balanced.....but I have heard from many now that they are jsutl ike the rest so I had been confused lol.

But I think I put more trust in the guys here on fabo than I do on some random website LOL:cheers:
 
have you mic'ed the crank to make sure its in spec where the balancer rides? to make sure thats not why your balancer came off so easily in the first place.
 
DusterDude72 said:
have you mic'ed the crank to make sure its in spec where the balancer rides? to make sure thats not why your balancer came off so easily in the first place.
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Ya know....that reminds...i still have to do that. lol....That will be the first thing I do tomorrow morning...Anyone know what the spec is? and whats acceptable?
 
mopardude318 said:
so would this summit brand be a good dampener to get? I dont need a crazy expensive one, or an sfi approved one...lol

and I would imagine that summit one is better than the worn out POS that was on there...LOL

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-163273/
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That damper is the same one that came apart on my 410, pretty sure it is a PROSTREET Damper...........It does fit perfect though, all the pullys etc will line up and no shimming will be required at all.
 
Mad Dart said:
That damper is the same one that came apart on my 410, pretty sure it is a PROSTREET Damper...........It does fit perfect though, all the pullys etc will line up and no shimming will be required at all.
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Ooohh Yeaaa, I remember that thread, that sucks it was the summit one cuz its only like 80 bucks....Hmmm.....


Guitar Jones said:
I used the Summit SFI ones on my 340 (8500 rpm) and my 360 (7500).
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I suppose I COULD get the SFI approved dampener...159 bucks though. :/

MadDart, do you think just by chance yours was a bad one, or is it possible that all the regular summit ones are junk? What did summit have to say? I need to read your thread again...lol
 
I think your running the same pistons that i got in my 318.
Keith black silvo-lite.
 
T67POWER said:
I think your running the same pistons that i got in my 318.
Keith black silvo-lite.
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That'd be cool...lol...I don't know which ones mine are...Here's a pic...

j77zop.jpg


95mvxy.jpg
 
Thanks for such a fast reply.8)
Look inside the piston skirt for any numbers.
They are inside the piston \\\ look for a 1266
 
I have the same pistons in my 318 too. I wondered what they were. It was a nice suprise when I pulled my crappy stocker heads.
 
Today i painted my block too. and installed new cam bearings...and cleaned and rebuilt my oil pump...

9sw8kj.jpg


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9rrfnl.jpg
 
There made by united machine company for keith black.
They are silvolite pistons.1266
I talked directly to one of the top dudes at the company and he gave me a bunch of info on all the pistons they make.
This is the company that makes all the keith blacks pistons.
They are way better then the stock pistons of yesterday.
He said it was the material they use now that made them so strong, but most importantly, it was how they cooled the piston and how strong this change made them.
They are always testing new materials and trying to make a better piston.


United Engine & Machine Co. Incorporated \\\great info on the site


UEM has been manufacturing aftermarket pistons for automotive, light truck, popular import and heavy duty applications since 1922. We offer over 485 OE replacement pistons. These features include the following:

* Reinforced top lands
* Coated skirts
* Floating wrist pins where applicable
* Application specific aluminum alloys
* Diamond finished skirts
* Pin hole accurate to +/- .0001
 
Engine looks great.\\\So clean i need my shades.:glasses2:
 
I see you picked orange! My favorite mopar engine color. What brand of paint did you use?
 
Killer work on pulling it out an rebuilding it all thats my thinking when ever i have my motor out, might as well tear into it!

An i wish i read this thread before the car show weekend cuz i was in watsonville for the sprints on friday,good guys on sat, an the mopar show on sunday we could of meet up an bullshited it up for bit hahaha

Im in south san jose if you ever need a hand!

MIKEY
 
i just read all 10 pages, and good for you taking your own engine out, apart and checking it. even if you didnt have to go that far. your that far into it mise well take it all apart and clean everything up. get to know ur engine alot better instead of guessing what u have.

wish i knew u needed a balancer, a few nights ago i got rid of a fluiddampr new in the box for a small block cheap.

dont feel bad... i built a motor for my vega when i was 16 with eagle crank, h beam rods, forged domed pistons, roller cam, 2.02 heads, pete jackson drive gears, stud girdles, roller rockers. really nice. took off hard after 200 miles on engine missed a gear and sent it way over 7000, 15 miles back home and noise started.
 
mopardude318 said:
I understand, point taken....I'm just stuck now. lol...don't know what the hell it is, but it sure sounds like its deep in the engine, and it has to warm up slightly to make the noise...
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Since you found no traces of any metal in the oil and you have great oil pressure, I suspect the transmission pump. Have you listened near the pump on the trans? Did you check the transmission oil? What color is it now? Does it smell bad?
 
belmateo said:
James, did you install a new oil pump drive bushing in the block?
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Guy, I did not install a new bushing...why, do ya think I should? When I have the oil pump drive shaft in there, how tight of a fit is it supposed to be? I know it should spin freely, but not move side to side right? I think I have to replace it, as I just checked it right now, and while the shaft is installed, it will move ever so slightly left and right. (if I wiggle the gear)
 
I only mentioned it because there is nothing else in your motor that I can think of that would make noise and not show any metal shaving in the oil. On my recent 340 build I installed a new bushing and it was very tight. As I told you in the previous post, you may want to check your transmission oil for tell tale signs of any problems. When you took it out for a drive did it make the noise right away after it warmed up? Did the transmission seem to work properly (shifted normal, went into gear right away) things like that?
 
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