My 360 build

-
This cracks me up a little in one book it says the side with the slot is the rear side of the thrust plate the other book they clearly have the slot side facing out. I'm seriously starting to question the author of this 2nd book! I know for a fact that the slot side was facing in when took this engine apart because I marked it when I took it off

20200922_172929.jpg


20200922_172934.jpg
 
Is there a certain direction for the crank key or is the same both directions?

20200922_173525.jpg
 
Lookin good! Looks like you put the rear main seal in wopsided, like I've done the last 2 I built. Neither one leaked a drop, so it must work! That thing is gonna get harder and harder to get from the laundry room to the porch and back as you keep throwing parts at it....lol. Keep up the good work.

:thumbsup:
 
Not sure if this question was for me, but I'll try to answer it. For initial, I have it idling about 700 rpm's with no vacuum advance. I bump the timing up (advance) about 3 degrees. Did the rpm's pick up? If so, back the idle (at the carb) down to 700 rpm's again and bump another 3 degrees. Same thing. When it doesn't pick up any rpm's, then go back to the last setting where it did. Then, the car needs to be fully warmed up - shut it off and let it sit for about 2 minutes. Then, restart and if it kicks back at the starter, pull about 2 degrees out (retard) and see if it kicks back again. If it does, pull another degree out till it doesn't kick back. For total, it will be just where your car performs the best. could be 33* or could be 38* for example. Same true with the recurve at what RPM the full advancement kicks in, meaning where it performs the best. And ALWAYS be listening for detonation

I’m not sure how you pick initial timing without getting the curve correct first.

Most pull too much timing too soon so they lose advance when pulled into gear, and the curve is too quick away from initial.
 
Lookin good! Looks like you put the rear main seal in wopsided, like I've done the last 2 I built. Neither one leaked a drop, so it must work! That thing is gonna get harder and harder to get from the laundry room to the porch and back as you keep throwing parts at it....lol. Keep up the good work.

:thumbsup:
Yea its heavy right now with the crank and cam in it was hard to get over the hump and the back door lol I'm still trying to find a good way to get it off the porch when I'm ready haha. I have a few ideas I'm not sure what is gonna work tho
 
Cleaning up for the day and getting everything put up I was looking at my oil pan it looks like I got the wrong one:BangHead: this one appears to be a pre 70 318-340 pan got the holes in the seal area. So I'm gonna have to go dig out my 360 pan and prep and paint it!
Also got my intermediate shaft cleaned up and test fit it fits the new bushing perfectly

20200922_180130.jpg


20200922_180135.jpg


20200922_174901.jpg


20200922_174907.jpg


20200922_175009.jpg


20200922_175014.jpg
 
Yea its heavy right now with the crank and cam in it was hard to get over the hump and the back door lol I'm still trying to find a good way to get it off the porch when I'm ready haha. I have a few ideas I'm not sure what is gonna work tho

Do you have any buddies that work on heavy equipment? If you do, they probably drive one of those trucks that have a jib crane mounted on the back. They might be able to back up to the porch and reach and get it down into the back of your truck. A neighbor with a decent sized tractor that has a loader bucket could do the same thing. If those deck boards are regular ol 5/4 boards instead of full 2x6's, I believe I'd lay a sheet of plywood down to roll it out on. As it gets heavier, the wheels on the engine stand are gonna be exerting a lot of pressure in 4 spots. If your luck's like mine, a wheel will be sitting on a knot on the bottom side of the board that you can't see, and KABOOMYOW! :eek:
 
Do you have any buddies that work on heavy equipment? If you do, they probably drive one of those trucks that have a jib crane mounted on the back. They might be able to back up to the porch and reach and get it down into the back of your truck. A neighbor with a decent sized tractor that has a loader bucket could do the same thing. If those deck boards are regular ol 5/4 boards instead of full 2x6's, I believe I'd lay a sheet of plywood down to roll it out on. As it gets heavier, the wheels on the engine stand are gonna be exerting a lot of pressure in 4 spots. If your luck's like mine, a wheel will be sitting on a knot on the bottom side of the board that you can't see, and KABOOMYOW! :eek:
One idea I have is to back the truck up to the steps as far as I can and I have a set of those 2x10 four wheeler ramps, try and roll it down those into the bed. The other idea is to ratchet strap the hoist onto the bed of my truck and back it up and hope it goes high enough lol I'm not sure that it will tho.
 
Did you put rtv between the rear cap and the block?
Did you set the center cap before tightening the caps down?
Sorry didnt see this earlier yes i put rtv down on the rear main base then put the cap down then put a bead between the block and cap and smeared it in with my finger. I did set the middle cap first i did the middle the two ends then then 2 and 4 all three times

20200922_162613.jpg
 
Sorry didnt see this earlier yes i put rtv down on the rear main base then put the cap down then put a bead between the block and cap and smeared it in with my finger. I did set the middle cap first i did the middle the two ends then then 2 and 4 all three times

View attachment 1715599575


Buy set the center cap I was talking about taking a rubber mallet and tapping the crankshaft forward to set that center cap alignment for the thrust side of the crankshaft.

I personally don't smear a bunch of silicone in that rear main seal Groove either. I just put a dab on the end of the rear seal so that it's seals when you pulled it all up tight. And I stagger the seal halves like you have done.
 
Install the intermediate shaft by the book and you'll have a lot of room to move the distributor for timing adjustment. The slot in the intermediate shaft should point to the first intake manifold bolt hole on the driver's side cylinder head when installed correctly.
 
I'm trying to make a list of all the small parts that I need after (during) installation to get it running. So far I have on the list
Intake nipples (heater hose and bypass)
Voltage regulator
Ballist resistor
Carb studs
Hoses
Water temp sensor
Oil pressure sensor
Plugs and wires
Dipstick
And the fittings for the metal portion of the fuel line
You guys think of anything else I'm missing?
 
Last edited:
LMAOROTF... and yesterday, I’m doing some work... and realizing at the moment I needed it, I’m out of RTV!

DANG IT!!!!

Crap happens.....
 
What always happens to me Is i will buy a spare so i don't run out but then I forgot so I buy more and then when I'm looking for it I find my spare! Haha
 
What always happens to me Is i will buy a spare so i don't run out but then I forgot so I buy more and then when I'm looking for it I find my spare! Haha


Yep. I buy extra, put it EXACTLY where I think is the PERFECT place, and when I need it...back into town for more.

In fact, I needed a brake cylinder home yesterday for a little touch up work. I bought mine in 1980. Used it about a year ago.

Can’t find that damn thing anywhere. I looked everywhere. Got tired of looking, so I went over to my father in law and asked to borrow his.

Half an hour later in in the car, headed to town to buy a new hone.

I’ve also misplaced my compression tester, which also was purchased in 1980. I’m hoping one day to find that.
 
Yep. I buy extra, put it EXACTLY where I think is the PERFECT place, and when I need it...back into town for more.

In fact, I needed a brake cylinder home yesterday for a little touch up work. I bought mine in 1980. Used it about a year ago.

Can’t find that damn thing anywhere. I looked everywhere. Got tired of looking, so I went over to my father in law and asked to borrow his.

Half an hour later in in the car, headed to town to buy a new hone.

I’ve also misplaced my compression tester, which also was purchased in 1980. I’m hoping one day to find that.
I have the same problem I'm spend 75 percent of my time looking for something weither it be a tool or part. My biggest problem is lack of space and storage. Everything just gets spread around wherever it will fit lol I'm hoping soon I will get a garage and be organized better. The other week I went to do my cam bearings and couldnt find them anywhere. I rent a storage unit to keep parts and everything in, so I drove out to the storage unit couldn't find it there either I looked for hours never did find them i was so mad and aggravated. The next day I was prepping the valve covers and all that stuff for paint and went to my paint box that I just got out of storage to get my engine paint out and there was my cam bearings in the damn paint box! :BangHead: I do that crap all the time. A few months ago I looked for 45 mins for a caliper that was still attached to the rearend! :rofl:
 
Oh I just thought of an important one! Plugs and wires !!! What plugs you guys recommend?
 
-
Back
Top