My home inspection of Speedmaster heads

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There may be other things to consider.
I'm just spitballing here but i can see the plug needing some kind of protection.

Now stay with me here. what if there was some kind of Wet Flow situation were fuel would puddle in that area and so they made a hat, so to speak so the fuel rolled on by, instead of puddling. now if you moved the plug out more like toolmanmike suggest......................just thinking out loud here........

No matter what, i would be removing any sharp edge from the combustion chamber!


I would never fix a wet flow situation like that. Those threads have to go.

The easy fix is with a carbide and some paper rolls.

The best fix is to drop the plug in the hole with an end mill as mentioned above, but that may bring about other issues.
 
The motor I tested that made the 589hp...... with the untouched plug holes....... made peak power at 33*.
 
The motor I tested that made the 589hp...... with the untouched plug holes....... made peak power at 33*.


I can't answer that, but when you recess the plug like that, it affects total timing.

It's also probably on another light it may have been 38!!!!! And on another light it could have been 30.

As long as the plug says it's happy, the number is what it is.
 
What about that terrible 1 angle valve job? How's that going to weigh on your conscience...
Fixed! LOL

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The problem is the plug is so shrouded if you don't run 40 total (or more) you have something wrong.

That plug position is like retarding the timing 5 degrees or more.
Just purely for comparison, roughly measuring the radiused oval shaped unshrouding of the plug in the chamber of the TF’s, the oval is about 20mm x 16mm and no matter how the ground strap orients when tightened there is plug gap clearance 360 degrees. Hope that un-technical use of words makes sense!

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The plug type used are the same for the SM’s and the TF’s. I don’t have a pic of a plug installed in the SM’s but here’s what I’m talking about. Radiused, no sharp edges and the plug electrode more exposed. Install a plug and see how the electrode is recessed and the amount of sharp threads are exposed.

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With the images that "12many" provided of his TF's and all the conjecture regarding how to approach the plug holes is there any reason NOT TO just replicate how the TF's are done in this area. I'm admittedly no Pro Porter but am quite adept with hand tools and do like the way the TF's look in the plug area as i'm no fan of sharp edges and the plug has certainly become unshrouded. If someone can make a good case for NOT replicating the TF's i'm all ear's but if not it truly looks like the way to go.
 
These RPM heads, and the copies have been around for quite a while now.
Tons of them have been on the dyno.
I don’t ever recall hearing of anyone having to run the timing at 40* to get the most power when using these heads.

I have to chuckle.......a few exposed threads around the plug has people in a tizzy.
But that big fat low flow valve job is a non-issue.
 
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I think the Trick Flow is not much different then any of the SM head in the as cast condition.
EDIT see at bottom


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Just think that it might have been a better plan to have NOT tapped the spark plug hole all the way threw.
In any case, i would be after the sharp edges on the combustion chamber.
This is a Trick Flow Spark plug design.
Sorry for the confusion!
VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV


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I think the Trick Flow is not much different then any of the SM head in the as cast condition.


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Just think that it might have been a better plan to have NOT tapped the spark plug hole all the way threw.
In any case, i would be after the sharp edges on the combustion chamber.
Guess costs too much to flip and counter sink from the other side.
 
Well it is to much money or as PBR said, it's no big deal.
As i have said before i would still be taking the point part of the threads down.
 
Well it is to much money or as PBR said, it's no big deal.
As i have said before i would still be taking the point part of the threads down.
And that's something you could do at home with a Dremel. There was talk before about how far to go before it starts costing too much. Us street guys that bought these heads don't need much but there are a few things that should be addressed as mentioned in these threads. I feel a correct valve job is #1 on the list. #2 should be deburring and bowl blending and #3 on my list should be gasket matching (if needed). You could run these heads without doing any of the above modifications. But a little extra will make them better.
 
I think the Trick Flow is not much different then any of the SM head in the as cast condition.


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The SM hole is drilled into the chamber and threaded. A straight threaded hole into chamber. The TF’s take the additional step of tapering or flaring it out to the chamber surface like I said to about a 20mm x 16mm oval, radiused.
 
The SM hole is drilled into the chamber and threaded. A straight threaded hole into chamber. The TF’s take the additional step of tapering or flaring it out to the chamber surface like I said to about a 20mm x 16mm oval, radiused.
have you done all the spark plug holes on you head?
IF not could you take a picture that shows more of what your trying to say.
 
The SM hole is drilled into the chamber and threaded. A straight threaded hole into chamber. The TF’s take the additional step of tapering or flaring it out to the chamber surface like I said to about a 20mm x 16mm oval, radiused.
I don't think anybody's disagreeing that you get what you pay for those trick flows are nice and have all the extra options built into them.. as they should for the money.. just like the sm's are budget-minded and the extras aren't done and allow the do-it-yourself guy to take care of that with no extra cost out of pocket...
 
I don't think anybody's disagreeing that you get what you pay for those trick flows are nice and have all the extra options built into them.. as they should for the money.. just like the sm's are budget-minded and the extras aren't done and allow the do-it-yourself guy to take care of that with no extra cost out of pocket...
LOL... Am I a cheapskate? I always have a Dremel in my hands..... :realcrazy:
 
These RPM heads, and the copies have been around for quite a while now.
Tons of them have been on the dyno.
I don’t ever recall hearing of anyone having to run the timing at 40* to get the most power when using these heads.

I have to chuckle.......a few exposed threads around the plug has people in a tizzy.
But that big fat low flow valve job is a non-issue.
In my defense all I posted was some pics of how the holes are finished on both these heads, and stated that to me it is an attention to detail thing. I wonder why TF does what they do? On first glance it all looks pretty, and for what you pay, they look pretty, with attention to detail that caters to anal guys like me:lol:
 
I think there is a lot to be gained with good valve job. Kim


I don't have the fancy seat cutters so its ether Neway cutters of stones for me. My local machine shop treats me pretty good on heads if I want to jump to a bigger valve size. I drop them off striped down and clean and they charge me 8.00 a hole (8 intakes). I usually get them back in 1-3 days at most.
 
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