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Come on guys. Johnny made a funny.
so are you going to build a similar eng for That Eddy head I'm hoping so but we usually learn and build up on each new eng...........................................
That engine was rebuilt 3 times and in need of its fourth when it ran 9.70’s. My son borrowed it and it ran 10.0’s@3200 pounds with a 727 and 4.10 gears. Next one with have more cam, way more compression, and hopefully a set of Edelbrock heads with the rocker moved over .350.
So you feel the greatest restriction, the way they are ported now, is the PRP?(Your 9.70 eddy heads)
No not at all because I Flow tested it after I opened it up .250-300 and only picked up a few cfm. It’s going to let me try a few things on that wall that I couldn’t do before. Fingers crossed type of deal. Goodnight all and Happy New Year.
This plug is probably too long, but there are a limited (so far 1) number of 14mm gasket plugs with a reach longer than .750 NGK Spark Plugs LFR6CGP: G-Power Resistor Spark Plug 14mm x 1.04" Reach | JEGS https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9873
Damn...that's .290 longer!
5 or 6 threads?
According to 318's photo, the thread end of the plugs terminate very close to the short side of the threads. I think cleaning the exposed thread area is the way to go. The angle of the plug is the cause of the issue.
Yeah, the jump in lengths are .460, .750 and 1.04. My heads arent here or I'd try one and post pics. I'm not worried about the issue, but since it's a topic as much info as possible is always best.
If you did find a longer plug the shell threads are going to then protrude on the short side. You want all of the shell making full contact with the head.
From the picture in 610 the plug needs to be about .060 deeper at the most. You are correct that you sone want any part of the shell in the chamber. The face of the shell should be flush with the chamber.
So ideally, machine the bores to depths needed and then index the plugs so the strap is close to long side, about as perfect as you’d get things. Maybe a new procedure for you machinists out there, make a fortune!
I'm already looking at what I need for a fixture to make up for the angle on the mill table. Might not have enough daylight under the head. That's where piloted tooling and using the tilting table on the drill press may work. Not as rigid but the pilot should make up for most of that. Get a set of shims would allow you to index each plug in certain increments to optimize it's presentation to the chamber? Got to be worth 1/2hp per cylinder at least, don't you think? I really do think the depth and indexing would be beneficial but I don't think you would begin to see measurable results unless you had a marginal combination, or are running a max effort motor. I don't think a fortune is to be made here. Might be able to get $50 a head plus shims? Most of you guys are frugal. I did not say cheap. I'm very careful where I spend my fun money too.
Yep. As for the making a fortune part...HAAAAAAAAAA HAAAAAAAAAAA you'd have to convince people it's worth the effort and those folks are few and far between, and most of them can do their own machine work. I'm a details guy. It's the little things that add up. Anyone can do the easy stuff. I'd bet money, big money, like all I have and some stuff I don't, that guys like PBR and PRH and a few others...MoparOfficial...probably missing some names here but you get who I'm talking about all do the very same thing every time they check out someone's port work...they get a finger in the port and check the short turns. I know I do it. First, very first place I go to, because it's the hardest place to grind and get it correct. And most guys just buff it off and let it go, which isn't a bad thing in many cases. You can loose more there in a second or two than most would recognize. Before I bought my flow bench I had several other shops with them test my stuff for me and it was hilarious. First thing was a finger up my short turns. Then they look at the valve job. That's why PBR and his thread is so interesting. I can sit back, read his stuff and enjoy what he's doing. He is explaining it much better than I can. And those who want to learn, if for no other reason than to be better informed when looking at cylinder heads. The guys who want to improve their heads can really learn a bunch from his work.
Once you know how much you need to take out of the hole, you shouldn't need many indexing washers. Not any more than you would if you were just indexing the plugs. Go for it.
Learning how to finger a port.....that like getting to first base or second? I can’t remember!
I knew a gal that was like a LS port.....never mind!
There’s a short side radius aka “G” spot joke somewhere here!
Sorry to sidetrack but that is funny right there!
If your good enuf it a home run
I thought that would equate to a triple, but it's been a long time since I played that sport.
I got the perfect short side radius (or what have you) middle finger. Result of a dirt bike wipeout years ago. Nice curvature at rest no?
Pulled the 2nd head apart today. Valves all held alcohol. Valve guides were the same as the first head meaning ok to use in my opinion. I'll remove the same burrs under the seat with the Dremel buffer. The spark plug holes are already done. About 1.5 hrs to complete this head meaning both my small block SM heads will be ready to bolt and go.