My home inspection of Speedmaster heads

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318willrun said:
when I say I wing it, no plan, I'm sporadic, this is what I mean. -- Plan was to buy ProMaxx. Couldn't pass up 40% off so I buy SM. Wait, 40% off??? why not big block heads as well, don't use 'em I'll sell 'em for profit in May. Wait!! Why not a couple of intakes for magnum heads and LA, never know what I may decide to put a magnum in. Now, you can sit back and wait for the next "Wait"! LOL
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I got to tell you right up to the last couple of hours I want to order a manifold just in case I ever got to something I wanted to do the Magnum swap on which is something I've always wanted to do ever since I knew it could be done...
 
I could probably sell this running 318 out of this truck for $350 which would have been a hundred and fifty for the manifold and 200 for a junkyard Magnum... But to do all that work just to give it away...
 
318willrun said:
A little of the wigglin you saw was the whole head moving. I think if the guides were tighter I might have been border line nervous.
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Yeah, I thought I saw that. I just wasn't sure. I've run some loose guides before. I've done a LOT of reading about knurling too. Enough to change my mind about it. I think it's beneficial......AS LONG AS you run "some type of" roller tipped rocker. I say that because the knurling does remove some surface area and as a result, they will wear sooner, unless a roller rocker is implemented. As long as you run rollers, I believe they will last virtually forever at that point, because that's about the only benefit rollers give, IMO. They just about completely remove the side loading and wear from valve stems and guides. Well worth their expense, IMO.

Thanks again for this write up. It's a goodun.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah, I thought I saw that. I just wasn't sure. I've run some loose guides before. I've done a LOT of reading about knurling too. Enough to change my mind about it. I think it's beneficial......AS LONG AS you run "some type of" roller tipped rocker. I say that because the knurling does remove some surface area and as a result, they will wear sooner, unless a roller rocker is implemented. As long as you run rollers, I believe they will last virtually forever at that point, because that's about the only benefit rollers give, IMO. They just about completely remove the side loading and wear from valve stems and guides. Well worth their expense, IMO.

Thanks again for this write up. It's a goodun.
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I remember in high school auto shop the theory was the knurling allowed more oil in between and would counteract the lack of material... Just spitballing for conversation sake of course...
 
j par said:
I remember in high school auto shop the theory was the knurling allowed more oil in between and would counteract the lack of material... Just spitballing for conversation sake of course...
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Absolutely it does. But my point is also true. Remember, the valves are the fastest moving parts in the engine. Lots of friction there. Reducing the surface area of the guides with NO other mods will make their life shorter, IMO. Now I'm not like the knurling haters who say they won't last anytime. I used to be. They last, just not "as long as" a new guide or liner, UNLESS roller rockers are included in the mix.
 
Thanks a lot for the video! I just read this whole thread and maybe I missed it but are you running the valve job as is? Are you going to lap them in even though they seal?

Cley
 
pittsburghracer said:
As far as valve jobs some of you guys are spoiled. I got away from stones years ago and moved to Neway valve seat cutters but I’m limited to your basic 60-45-30-15-10 valve angles instead of you custom angles. I almost had that ability 6 years ago when a friend closing his speed shop offered me his mill and all attachments for 1200.00. If my son had any interest in doing heads I would have bought it but he doesn’t so I didn’t. I think my heads do ok with old school technology so I’m stuck there. For guys that have never seen Neway cutters here’s a link. I bought mine in bits and pieces on eBay over the years
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I'm still a stone'r (not chemically) for the most part.. Some ports/chambers just need a custom angle/s. I thought about going the Neway route.. it's fast! especially on those enormously hard seats out there.
I also have some serdi stuff. It's nice to be able to lay a beautiful radii above the top angle. killin' 2 burdens with 1 cutter this way.. unshroud and get all them little sharpies in one cut.
Still limited though.. I retrofitted my mill to use it and can't get everything in place to use it. like the 6cyl diesel puller heads I've been doing. back to the stones.
A friend of mine does a lot of the nhra Stk/SS cyl heads who is making his way towards retirement.. I've taken some of his overload over the years, and he has offered deals for the equipment but I've got no place to put it! wish I could, my shop is so small, if I don't keep it clean I can't find a place to put down a bucket ! LOL
 
I'm a knurling hater.
Cheap way to tighten up a valve stem and the best way to build up carbon on the inside of the intake valve.
I would run a loose, new, bronze valve guide all day lone over knurling it! lets just give the guide a oil groove for the oil to run down and drip on that hot intake valve.
If my grannys 318 Cordoba, that she drive 300 mile a year in, need a head rebuild, i would consider Knurling.
 
I have a single car 12 foot - 31 foot garage under my house and my shop is 36-28 but with 4 Duster’s between my son and I that takes a lot of space. If I’m putting bigger valves in a head I have a local shop that charges me 8.00 per seat to do any valve job I want but then again it’s a basic 3-5 angle cut with the head striped and clean ready to Machine. Good deal for me, fast money for them.
 
Cudafever said:
I'm a knurling hater.
Cheap way to tighten up a valve stem and the best way to build up carbon on the inside of the intake valve.
I would run a loose, new, bronze valve guide all day lone over knurling it! lets just give the guide a oil groove for the oil to run down and drip on that hot intake valve.
If my grannys 318 Cordoba, that she drive 300 mile a year in, need a head rebuild, i would consider Knurling.
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No way oil is drooling down the valve with good valve seals. Ain't happenin.
 
Yeah.. mine is only a 2/3 car garage ! LOL
As long as they put the VJ where you want it, that saves a lot of time :)
That's the biggest problem I've had with some shops... after I've done a couple dozen flow tests and figured out where and what the VJ should be I hear, 'oh no, it's got to be like this.."
quite annoying.
 
Cudafever said:
And the same statement hold true for a slightly loose, new, bronze guide.
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Any guide for that matter......but rarely will you see a GOOD seal on a worn out guide. lol
 
89on35s said:
Thanks a lot for the video! I just read this whole thread and maybe I missed it but are you running the valve job as is? Are you going to lap them in even though they seal?

Cley
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yes, running the valve job provided. If I was to pay my machine shop, I'd have put my own hardware in the heads. To me, at least, the only purpose to buy loaded heads is save the $$$ and run the provided hardware - after a home inspection.
 
I think that a grinder below the seat is a must or a clean 70 cut to remove the burs
should make a nice flow increase as well.
 
pittsburghracer said:
As far as valve jobs some of you guys are spoiled. I got away from stones years ago and moved to Neway valve seat cutters but I’m limited to your basic 60-45-30-15-10 valve angles instead of you custom angles. I almost had that ability 6 years ago when a friend closing his speed shop offered me his mill and all attachments for 1200.00. If my son had any interest in doing heads I would have bought it but he doesn’t so I didn’t. I think my heads do ok with old school technology so I’m stuck there. For guys that have never seen Neway cutters here’s a link. I bought mine in bits and pieces on eBay over the years


Neway Valve Seat Cutting System
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Dang for that money I'd have snatched that mill up in a New York second.

It's crazy how important not only the angles are, but the worth of the angles.

And it depends on the bowl too. On 45 degree stuff for MoPar OE junk I like a 4 angle cut with the bottom cut a full .100 wide. I can't remember the angles at the moment, but IIRC the rest of the angles are all at least .060 wide if not .080.

On the 50 degree stuff the bottom cut isn't as wide...maybe .080ish IIRC.

It all makes a big difference not only in flow through the port, but how well the port flows backwards and even how well they flow at different test pressures.
 
j par said:
I could probably sell this running 318 out of this truck for $350 which would have been a hundred and fifty for the manifold and 200 for a junkyard Magnum... But to do all that work just to give it away...
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That's how it is.… I couldn't get 150 for a LA 318 2bbl here. But we can't find your trucks... LOL
 
yellow rose said:
Dang for that money I'd have snatched that mill up in a New York second.

It's crazy how important not only the angles are, but the worth of the angles.

And it depends on the bowl too. On 45 degree stuff for MoPar OE junk I like a 4 angle cut with the bottom cut a full .100 wide. I can't remember the angles at the moment, but IIRC the rest of the angles are all at least .060 wide if not .080.

On the 50 degree stuff the bottom cut isn't as wide...maybe .080ish IIRC.

It all makes a big difference not only in flow through the port, but how well the port flows backwards and even how well they flow at different test pressures.
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CHEESEBURGER...
 
To those that have bought the B3 rocker correction kit: what does it cost? Not seeing that in any posts. Very elusive!
 
12many said:
To those that have bought the B3 rocker correction kit: what does it cost? Not seeing that in any posts. Very elusive!
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Searching a while back I found a price of $180, could have gone up in the mean time.
 
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