My new Isky solid flat tappit cam (video)

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The Shocker

The Shocker

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I just got my 408 stroker in my Dart back together after being down for 2 months.I home ported the W2 heads ,went to double Comp springs (350lbs open),and swapped out the wimp Edelbrock hydraulic cam for an Iskenderian solid flat tappit .Cam specs are .507/.507 lift and 300/300 advertised duration with 254/254 @50 ,and a 108 lobe seperation.It has wicked throttle reponse now and i cant wait to run it again .I just relashed the valves after the breakin and was pleased to see that it was nearly identical as before i broke in the cam.Tells me im not losing a lobe .I cant get it to idle under 1050-1100 rpm ,and its only pulling 7 inches of vacume ,but i guess it doesnt matter for a Bracket car .Here is a vid of it after i relashed the valves ,sorry the audio sucks.My camera and the Dodge dont like each other .I cut the oil filter open to inspect and it looks good .I was pleased to not have any leaks either .Previos best was a 7.13 @ 96 mph with the Edelbrock hydrauic cam and Unported W2's.Im hoping for a 6.9 with the new cam and head porting ,plus the stiffer springs .Gasket matching the header flanges and intake shouldnt hurt it either.Im guessing the 750 carb isnt gunna cut it now ,but im gunna try it as is first.Im thinking an 850-950 carb will be a better chioce ...
[ame="http://youtu.be/30XmDAKQn-8"]302 Found[/ame]
 
Sounds good! For sure sounds like alot of cubic inch. Good luck with the 6.90's.
 
Sounds great! Love those Isky cams and it should work good for you. Good luck!
tmm
 
Betting your on a high!! I know I would be. 108 LSA should be crispy, what rockers are you running (ratio and make)?
 
What distributor do you have?,,,advance curve?...and how much timing is in it?

My demon with a 360 has 256 @ .050 and it idles at 1200 rpm...I got a MP race electronic distributor and has full 34 degrees cranked in at 1000 rpm...
 
70aarcuda said:
What distributor do you have?,,,advance curve?...and how much timing is in it?

My demon with a 360 has 256 @ .050 and it idles at 1200 rpm...I got a MP race electronic distributor and has full 34 degrees cranked in at 1000 rpm...
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MSD Billet dist.Its not locked ,but it may need to be curved now.I have no idea how much inital or advance timing it has .I dont use timing lights.I prefer to set it by reading the plugs.I couldnt use a light on this one anyway ,since the alt is blocking the tab on the cover where its mounted .I set it by ear for now.I will bring a fresh set of plugs with me to the track when i go ,so i can get an accurate reading ...
 
Get a good dial back light, set it that way, I bet you will find ET there, I see no way you could get close by reading the plugs..
 
replicaracer43 said:
Get a good dial back light, set it that way, I bet you will find ET there, I see no way you could get close by reading the plugs..
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I can get the timing closer than people think reading the heat mark on the strap and watching my timeslips close .Too many variables with a timing light on a race motor for me.Slop in a timing chain ,timing tabs off ,mark in the dampner off from the rubber shifted ,etc .To each his own ...
 
Thats what Im talking about... not some mambe pambee oh that's to much duration cam:sad2:. Sounds like a real *** kicker...I love it:cheers:
 
Thanks for the positive feed back guys.Im on cloud 9 that everything worked right after the work i did to her.This was the first time i have ever been into a Mopar motor ,but its just nuts and bolts like a Chevy or Ford (i have done more than my share of internal mods to them both) Now i just need a 6 second time slip to really feel like a "Rock Star ", lol ...
 
You timing by ear, least thats how I been doing it. Once the advance is fully in-around 3,000 rpm- you keep advancing the timing by turning the dist until the engine speed stops increasing and lock it down. I then use a timing light to just see where its at and then road test and make small adjustments from that setting.

How do you time by plugs, doesn't the A/F change the plug colors
 
Anyway, that cam should really wake that w2 motor up for sure! How long till you get back to the track?
 
dodge freak said:
You timing by ear, least thats how I been doing it. Once the advance is fully in-around 3,000 rpm- you keep advancing the timing by turning the dist until the engine speed stops increasing and lock it down. I then use a timing light to just see where its at and then road test and make small adjustments from that setting.

How do you time by plugs, doesn't the A/F change the plug colors
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I get it close by ear (thats how its tuned right now) and will be good enough for a first pass.Just to the point where it tries to kick back when hot ,then a hair retarded from there.There is a certain point on any motor that i can hear .If you advance it when up to temp holding it at about 2500-3000 (till the advance is all in with my dist) there is a small point where it levels out and doesnt change much with a tad more advance.I stop just at that point where there is no change. On any camed motor i will keep slowly feeding as much timing as it wants until it just begins to start detonation .At the track i will bring several new plugs with me.I will change out one each pass for a new one.Keep increasing the timing by a touch each time until the strap on the plug has the heat halo right on its elbow .If its more to the end of the strap than its too slow ,if its more towards the base of the strap then its too advanced .Right on the elbow is ideal for a given application .I learned this trick from an old racer 20 years ago ...
 
replicaracer43 said:
Anyway, that cam should really wake that w2 motor up for sure! How long till you get back to the track?
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March 1st is the annual Nostalgia event at my local track.I have a grudge match lined up at the TNT the night before.Wont know till then if i done good or not ,but the 408 seems stronger now for sure ...
 
Timing by ear/plugs might work OK for a locked out situation, not so much if you are running any type of curve, initial/total split.

I'd expect that engine to idle in the 1K range, so it's not out of bounds.

Sounds good and should wake it up a little!
 
crackedback said:
Timing by ear/plugs might work OK for a locked out situation, not so much if you are running any type of curve, initial/total split.

I'd expect that engine to idle in the 1K range, so it's not out of bounds.

Sounds good and should wake it up a little!
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Thank you for the compliment.I have had a few tell me it should idle around 850 or so ,but i had my doubts with the 108 lobe seperation it would.Im guessing /hoping i picked up 30-40 hp between the cam ,porting the heads ,and gasket matching everything ,plus alot more rpm potential with the light weight solid lifters and the 350 lb springs.I was worried about it puffing smoke out the headers since i have no valves seals .There was no room for an umbrella type with the double springs and i was too cheap to pay to have the guides machined down for the race type seals.Being a race deal i didnt really care if it smoked sum ,but im still glad it dont.I guess i will know when its time for another valve job as the guides get worn ,lol.This NOS cam is rated to 7000 rpm .Im gunna play it by ear to see where the power falls off ,but 6700-6800 will be the limit for me regardless .I want to make it live for a while if i can help it .The old cam i had would fall on its face about 100 foot from the end of the 1/4 and still managed high 11.30's at 6000.Im hoping to be flirting with the 10's now ...
 
If that's the Z-30 grind,you damn close! Seen it,in brand "C".Pulls like bananaland.
 
What size header tube are you running? And I think 30 or 40 HP is well within reach, considering the cam you were running before.
 
They are Hedman Hustlers.I think they are 1 7/8 primaries and 3 1/2 collectors ,but i havent measured them.I am running 10 inch extensions on them that i made when i raced it with the other cam.Not sure if im better off with or without them now.This is a 10.2 to 1 motor BTW ( the heads were milled about .010 and im running .028 compressed head gaskets).It has a real decent short block with an Ohio Crank 4 inch crank ,Eagle rods ,and KB quench dome hyper pistons with a .035 quench (I clayed them myself).It also has ARP rod and main cap bolts ,as well as head studs.I run it on 110 Sunoco so i dont have to worry about detonation with the timing this cam likes .Im guessing i have a shade over 500 hp now with about that much torque.Sound about right on a hp estimate ???
 
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