My New Shop!! Yiippeee!

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ramcharger said:
Looks awesome Marland! Is this next inspection the final?
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The inspection I was trying to get today was "rough in". Next will be final.

Well I didn't pass inspection :wack:

The first thing there was a "bonding screw" in the sub panel that is not suppose to be installed. I didn't even know of such a thing but it is removed now.

Second was the "designated circuits should have only one wire and be marked". I should have marked the the circuits such as "refrigerator" "microwave"!
This I can't believe..... I have "ref" and "micro" wrote on a stud next to the outlets with one wire going into the outlet! One circuit breaker on each!

Third "all other outlets needs to be ground fault outlets". No kidding!! I have not got that far yet!!

Fourth and last " all ground wires need to be bonded at time of rough in inspection" I didn't know this or I would went around and made up all the switch and outlet boxes. I thought this fell in the final inspection!! Oh well.

I gave him a call today and asked him a few questions about the above turn downs. He said I could go ahead now and insulate, sheet rock, etc... Head towards the final and that he will check off the above turn downs when he comes back to do the final. This total BS!!! He HAD to turn me down on something. He wasn't going to go back to the office empty handed!!

Anyways I did amazingly well on it if that is all he could get me on. It doesn't look like it via the pictures but there is a lot of nick pic work that has been done in order to pass inspection.
 
I should have caught the bonding screw that ties your neutral bar to your ground side, Yes you should remove it if it was installed, Most if not all I have ever dun they are in the box with a peace of cardboard holding it and not installed .. Sorry, But you are not the first one to do that, It happens allot.

I would think a ground fault breaker would be the way to go and not buy 4 or 5 ground fault receptacles :thumrigh: check out the price difference :glasses7:

Yes!! Some inspectors just want something to bring back to show they have been there... You are doing a great job :cheers:
 
Yeah I didn't want to lose the screw so I removed from the card board and stuck in the hole. I didn't even have it tighten up just stuck in hole!! I really didn't know if I needed it or not however ...sooooo.

I tell you Mike I'm so fed up with this inspections (in which its my fault not knowing the codes) that I'm willing to fill each outlet with a ground fault and be done with it. I know what you're talking about but my luck he will turn it down. There is a huge difference in the money that's for sure.
 
Don't fret about the electrical inspection. It is not an attempt to belittle you, instead to ensure that you do things correctly. Since the grounds are the most important part of the system (and are hard to see when everything is connected), as you found out, they like to ensure they are done correctly.

Funny, you must have installed that bonding screw after you posted the pics of your box a few pages back, since I looked for it (newb mistake :)). As far as GFs, you are best to pick up a book that has your local reqs. Here, any exterior that is under 9' must be GF. You can use GF breakers or ensure the first outlet from the box is GF and all others pass through it (no pigtails).

Grant
 
OneOfMany said:
Don't fret about the electrical inspection. It is not an attempt to belittle you, instead to ensure that you do things correctly. Since the grounds are the most important part of the system (and are hard to see when everything is connected), as you found out, they like to ensure they are done correctly.

Funny, you must have installed that bonding screw after you posted the pics of your box a few pages back, since I looked for it (newb mistake :)). As far as GFs, you are best to pick up a book that has your local reqs. Here, any exterior that is under 9' must be GF. You can use GF breakers or ensure the first outlet from the box is GF and all others pass through it (no pigtails).

Grant
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X2 Grant, one GF receptacle first in line then straght to the next will pass :cheers: and be safe, come off the GF receptacle straght to the next and so on. Thank you Grant :thumrigh: I for got about that :cheers:
 
OneOfMany said:
Funny, you must have installed that bonding screw after you posted the pics of your box a few pages back, since I looked for it (newb mistake :)).



Grant
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Well I be darn! I did install it later on. I remember I was cleaning up and I stuck it in the box so not to loose it. Thats funny!

memike said:
X2 Grant, one GF receptacle first in line then straght to the next will pass :cheers: and be safe, come off the GF receptacle straght to the next and so on. Thank you Grant :thumrigh: I for got about that :cheers:
Click to expand...

I understand you both completely that the outlets down stream can be took care of by one GF outlet but Im not going to take my chances with this ding dong inspector! I have wired houses before believe it or not and never had any trouble. I could wire a 4 way switch without even thinking hard but Ive haven't did that type work in awhile. My dad built houses for a living and I would be right there with him everyday plumbing, wiring, you name it. Then I noticed that you have to separate the neutral from the grounds when I added some rooms on to my friends house. I didn't have to do that years ago.
 
I've been working on the shop but haven't been running around with my hair on fire. Got the insulation done in the walls, paid for the 8' x 20' double insulated garage door so the company can order it. It will take a week to get here. Today going to order 46 pcs of 4' X 10' sheet rock. I know that standing the sheet rock vertical would be easier so that's the route I'm going. The GE PTAC heat pump should be shipped out today. It has gotten a little cooler down here so winter is on its way. It feels like it anyways. lol Get the garage door up soon would be nice.
 
memike said:
X2 Grant, one GF receptacle first in line then straght to the next will pass :cheers: and be safe, come off the GF receptacle straght to the next and so on. Thank you Grant :thumrigh: I for got about that :cheers:
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Actually - Might be smarter to install a GFCI breaker on the panel... You might also install a surge protector on the panel...

I also didnt notice in the photos - but did you install any exterior outlets?
 
I have a 4" slab (rebar) and have no problems with my lift. I do not bolt it down, because I want the ability to roll it around the shop as needed on casters.

One of the best things I added when I built my shop 4 years ago was pull down air and power lines. I have a 30' by 40' shop, and have 2 sets of utilities that pull down on either side of the lift. So much neater and more convenient.

Stephen
 
mullinax95 said:
It's really according to what type of pour you're talking about. If is a turn down slab and has plumbing and electrical coming up through the concrete then the plumbing/electrical has to be inspected before the pour. The reason behind that is everything is under the concrete and they want to see how it ran, water or air must be applied to the water lines to show that they don't leak. After the inspection it is OK to cover the pipes, elec conduit with dirt. Turn down slabs has the walls sitting on the slab so yes it HAS to be poured first. In my case I'm using a curtain wall of block so inspection is not necessary at this moment. I have to show a termite letter, have all wiring roughed in with service panel, water has to be connected with psi/ or water on it, slab poured, brick completed, and all windows, doors, garage door has to be up, and shingled. "In the dry" another words.

Tell you truth I really want the pour to the last thing. I want to keep the concrete clean as possible so the floor exposy man won't have in troubles with mud, dirt, dust, oil on the floor.
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Marland, is the block/brick on a concrete footer? Just wondering as I'm looking for a house and I may have to build a garage. I take it that a turndown slab is a slab that's poured deeper around the edges for the structure footer?
 
Joeychgo said:
Actually - Might be smarter to install a GFCI breaker on the panel... You might also install a surge protector on the panel...

I also didnt notice in the photos - but did you install any exterior outlets?
Click to expand...
I have been told that GFCI breakers are easy to trip compared to normal breakers. I know that when we had a temporally pole for electricity the GFCI breaker would trip off all the time. Then we installed a regular breaker and never had problems thereafter. So I'm hesitate of using those type breakers.

Surge protector on the panel?? Huh... that's new to me. Sounds expensive. I believe I have seen those before but didn't know what it was.

No outside outlets... it was planned that way.... I don't like the way they look. There are outlets on the porch nearby which are convenient enough for me.

I could do it different ways but as the moment I am going to install GFCI in the outlets that aren't marked "refrigerator", "microwave", etc... Thats what the inspector wants to see more than anything.

shart70rt said:
I have a 4" slab (rebar) and have no problems with my lift. I do not bolt it down, because I want the ability to roll it around the shop as needed on casters.

One of the best things I added when I built my shop 4 years ago was pull down air and power lines. I have a 30' by 40' shop, and have 2 sets of utilities that pull down on either side of the lift. So much neater and more convenient.

Stephen
Click to expand...

The whole plan from the start was to go with a 4" pour but after I ran out of fill dirt and patience it jumped to 6" lol

I don't plan on bolting a lift to the floor if I can help it. I want one with casters.

I plan on having pull down air and power but I am undecided about where to mount the compressor, what size I need etc....???? This is a good time to bring this question up before the sheet rock is installed. I guess I need to say that I don't have a lot of air tools. I have one air ratchet and that's it. Everything else I have is electric. I have a small type compressor that works for all my needs but still want to plan ahead if I start using more air, auto painting, etc... I was thinking about getting a bigger compressor that stands up vertical than horizontal... you might have seen those like at Lowes and put it in a corner. I don't want my compressor outside on the back but that idea isn't totally out. Just don't want anyone to steal it of course. What would you guys do??

ramcharger said:
Marland, is the block/brick on a concrete footer? Just wondering as I'm looking for a house and I may have to build a garage. I take it that a turndown slab is a slab that's poured deeper around the edges for the structure footer?
Click to expand...

Yes is on a concrete footer. The main reason it is constructed on a footer is because I was going to have brick. The brick needed something to sit on. Now you are correct on the turndown slab but it can also be formed to accept brick but is a difficult and time consuming adventure. We did one on front of a metal building in which the front was going to have the brick but the rest was sheet metal. So we formed it so that the concrete would roll out at the bottom of slab and have a ledge for the brick to sit on.
 
mullinax95 said:
I have been told that GFCI breakers are easy to trip compared to normal breakers. I know that when we had a temporally pole for electricity the GFCI breaker would trip off all the time. Then we installed a regular breaker and never had problems thereafter. So I'm hesitate of using those type breakers.

Surge protector on the panel?? Huh... that's new to me. Sounds expensive. I believe I have seen those before but didn't know what it was.

No outside outlets... it was planned that way.... I don't like the way they look. There are outlets on the porch nearby which are convenient enough for me.

I could do it different ways but as the moment I am going to install GFCI in the outlets that aren't marked "refrigerator", "microwave", etc... Thats what the inspector wants to see more than anything.



The whole plan from the start was to go with a 4" pour but after I ran out of fill dirt and patience it jumped to 6" lol

I don't plan on bolting a lift to the floor if I can help it. I want one with casters.

I plan on having pull down air and power but I am undecided about where to mount the compressor, what size I need etc....???? This is a good time to bring this question up before the sheet rock is installed. I guess I need to say that I don't have a lot of air tools. I have one air ratchet and that's it. Everything else I have is electric. I have a small type compressor that works for all my needs but still want to plan ahead if I start using more air, auto painting, etc... I was thinking about getting a bigger compressor that stands up vertical than horizontal... you might have seen those like at Lowes and put it in a corner. I don't want my compressor outside on the back but that idea isn't totally out. Just don't want anyone to steal it of course. What would you guys do??



Yes is on a concrete footer. The main reason it is constructed on a footer is because I was going to have brick. The brick needed something to sit on. Now you are correct on the turndown slab but it can also be formed to accept brick but is a difficult and time consuming adventure. We did one on front of a metal building in which the front was going to have the brick but the rest was sheet metal. So we formed it so that the concrete would roll out at the bottom of slab and have a ledge for the brick to sit on.
Click to expand...

OK, so essentialy, having the brick or block on a seperate footer allows the floor to float from the foundation which may reduce future cracking and heaving too?
 
ramcharger said:
OK, so essentialy, having the brick or block on a seperate footer allows the floor to float from the foundation which may reduce future cracking and heaving too?
Click to expand...


Yep... the brick/block itself is actually weight sitting on the footer which is in the ground. Typically if you are going to have vinyl siding, metal sheathing then a turn down slab can be used. If it is brick veneer or block then it needs a footing. On a turn down slab a form has to built around the perimeter and shot with a laser transit. By code the garage HAS to have fall so water can run off. This makes it very interesting.... how do you have fall with slab forms and yet have the top of the walls level? I have never done a garage like this but I guess all the studs would have to be cut individually. Then where the garage door(s) is going to be the form needs to be notched so the concrete will have fall out to the driveway. So when you take all that in account (remember the forms have to built using plywood, 2x4s around 16" wide) you might come out cheaper having a footer dug and block mason to come in a lay block then later pour you concrete with fall.



Tony Fields said:
That looks great Marland!

I know how you feel right now.:blob::blob::blob::blob:
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So you know how I feel? You must feel tired! LOL


Thats a great picture in you signature Tony!
 
mullinax95 said:
Yep... the brick/block itself is actually weight sitting on the footer which is in the ground. Typically if you are going to have vinyl siding, metal sheathing then a turn down slab can be used. If it is brick veneer or block then it needs a footing. On a turn down slab a form has to built around the perimeter and shot with a laser transit. By code the garage HAS to have fall so water can run off. This makes it very interesting.... how do you have fall with slab forms and yet have the top of the walls level? I have never done a garage like this but I guess all the studs would have to be cut individually. Then where the garage door(s) is going to be the form needs to be notched so the concrete will have fall out to the driveway. So when you take all that in account (remember the forms have to built using plywood, 2x4s around 16" wide) you might come out cheaper having a footer dug and block mason to come in a lay block then later pour you concrete with fall.





So you know how I feel? You must feel tired! LOL


Thats a great picture in you signature Tony!
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Thanks Marland....I love that picture.
 
mullinax95 said:
Surge protector on the panel?? Huh... that's new to me. Sounds expensive. I believe I have seen those before but didn't know what it was.
Click to expand...


Here is one:
http://www.smarthome.com/4860/Leviton-51120-1-Whole-House-Surge-Suppressor-Surge-Protector/p.aspx


There are many out there - prices vary.

What's nice is it protects everything. Fridge, compressor, heating / ac units, etc.

I would suggest you really look at it. One lighting strike and you have thousands in damage...
 
I remember my dry in inspection too. Pretty much just like you described. It is short lived (the aggrevation) and then you'll be in:cheers:
Looking mighty good Marland
C
 
Got a little bit done this weekend. They delivered the 4' x 10' sheet rock Friday. Think I can hang it over head by myself??? I will build a "dead man". I put a few pieces up around the garage door so I could get done with the framing. The insulation guys are coming out tomorrow to install those vent things between the trusses. I don't know what they are called so you have to use your imagination. They keep the insulation from falling down in the soffit when they blow the attic with insulation. The insulation guy said he really appreciated me calling him and letting him know. It is a pain to stable those things up with the sheet rock up on the ceilings.



Got started on the soffit. Does it look like a professional put it up? LOL

I used to have a aluminum break that bends the metal around the fascia. I let a friend of mine borrow it and it got stole. :mumum: There wasn't any reason to whip his *** or try to get money from him to pay for it. It would have been just a waste of time and I might have got thrown in jail. That was ten years ago and as of this very moment he lives in a 12' x 24' storage building!!!! Anyways ... I've got to find out where I can borrow one I guess.
 

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old tired rebel said:
Marlan your garage is really coming together.
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Yeah its slowly coming together. I stopped on doing the boxing and hung up the light fixtures up on each side of the garage door before it got dark tonight. The fixtures have a built in "accent lighting" in which come on when it gets dark. Once it detects motion however the lights cut on bright. I looked out the door a few minutes ago and the accent lights was on... walked out and had a look at it... man I'm happy about my shop dude!!! Still got alot of work to do. :help:
 
Marland,

I use the big (80 Gallon) vertical compressor from Lowe's. Has been great. I installed a station to dry air and add oil for tools off the outlet of the compressor. Put in a "T" fitting with hand valves first, and one leg is used for blow down air (keeps you from using oil while cleaning parts or sweeping the floor with air). Other leg feeds the air/oil station, then the outlet from the air station goes to the two pull down air kits hung from bottom of rafters (my shop does not have a sheetrock ceiling. Debated about adding water also, but use it so seldom, that it was not worth the hassle.

If you are a retired veteran, or know a retired vet or current military person, Lowe's and Home Depot gives 10% off when they show their ID Card. Would save you $60 or $75.

Bought the pull down air and electrical stuff from Norhern Tool. Their quality looked better than Harbor Freight's.
 
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