I removed that pipe plug. I see the distributor drive gear. LOL. Wrong plug?
My take on the oiling system crossover tube for the small block
- Thread starter Jadaharabi
- Start date
-
.
Got a picture?
Is that not on the rear left side of the engine? LOL
Because if I look past that gear, I see another pipe plug inside the block behind the gear.
Last edited:
And if I open the plug on the right side of the cam freeze plug, I can see the oil plug all the way on the front of the engine, under the timing cover. ;)
Ok that is what we wanted to see, that the inner plug was in there. Super.
Tap the plug into place.
Tap the plug into place.
prochargedmopar
Well-Known Member
Future projects.
I plan to retire in a little over a year so I’ll be spending plenty of time in the garage. ;-)
.
When you pulled the pan was the oil pump flat against the rear main cap?
yes it sure was from what I can tell. I have .020 thousandths clearance from the main cap bolt to the oil pump body. Plenty.
I'm gonna replace my rear main seal, put on that other oil pump, and button it up. I will take note if there is a gasket between the oil pump and main cap, is that absolutely necessary to have that gasket there?
Finished for tonight, but I pulled the pump that was on there...There was no oil pump gasket...Should I put one or no? 
.Finished for tonight, but I pulled the pump that was on there...There was no oil pump gasket...Should I put one or no?
I always use one. Some people run them and some don't. If you don't be sure the mounting areas are flat and you clear the main cap bolt or stud and nut.
What pan are you useing?
Do you use a windage tray?
Last edited:
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
MP318, in the 1st pix in post #183, is that white lithium grease in the pilot bearing, or something else? That white lithium grease hasn't always done well on applications (for me) where there is constant movement and heat.
Yea it's whatever it came with from the parts store. What do you recommend?
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
And I'll say I have not explicitly had an pilot bearing issue with white lithium; it may be OK since it only turns when the clutch is disengaged, so it may be just fine. But, I'd prefer a light moly grease, and not a lot of it. Otherwise it'll end up on the clutch face.
So what is the torque specs on the 1/2" stud and bolt on the main cap, 85 ft lbs? There was none, but I think I'm gonna put a very light dab of sealant on the metal mating surfaces of the cap and block.
Last edited:
The bolt has a differant torque setting from a stud and nut.
Watch it when you install the pump with the intermediate shaft installed. If the pump gets cocked because it's not correctly engaged and you tighten the mounting bolts down you will break the pump.
Watch it when you install the pump with the intermediate shaft installed. If the pump gets cocked because it's not correctly engaged and you tighten the mounting bolts down you will break the pump.
Right. The ARP stud calls for 110 ft lbs with ARP lube. The torque spec for the ARP bolt under the oil pump is the same going off of ARP website.
https://arpinstructions.com/instructions/140-5002.pdf
anitrowarrior9
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know what size drill, ream, and copper tuning to buy to tube a block?
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
There has been a thread on this forum on exactly that topic in the last month. The Search tool ought to show it.
.
You may be looking at the wrong instructions. I believe this 5002 is a 12-sided bolt head. Where as the 5001 is a six-sided bolt head which is torqued to only 100 pounds. While a stud and nut is torqued to 110 lb.
Last edited:
So my rear main seal is done. That was easy, and I'm pretty confident that it will not leak.
I came across a couple minor issues while putting on my oil pump. The first thing I over looked was that it was machined on the bottom of pump housing to clear the ARP main cap bolt.
No big deal, I had my local machine shop do the same thing to the new pump.
%5Bimg%5Dhttps://image.ibb.co/n2Cy3V/IMG-3998.jpg%5B/img%5D
Wow. Thanks. I missed the 12 point part of that. My stud is torqued to 110 and I'll loosen the bolt and re-torque to 100 pounds.
I came across a couple minor issues while putting on my oil pump. The first thing I over looked was that it was machined on the bottom of pump housing to clear the ARP main cap bolt.
No big deal, I had my local machine shop do the same thing to the new pump.
%5Bimg%5Dhttps://image.ibb.co/n2Cy3V/IMG-3998.jpg%5B/img%5D
Wow. Thanks. I missed the 12 point part of that. My stud is torqued to 110 and I'll loosen the bolt and re-torque to 100 pounds.
Alex5280
74' Duster
Anyone care to explain the best way to remove the plug that is below the pressure sending unit hole (appx. 7 1/2" down) so you can drill out that passage to 1/2". I have done most of the other mods, not quite sure how to remove this plug. Thanks guys.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Just drive it out from the top with a long rod and it will come out the bottom of the block.
Alex5280
74' Duster
^ Thanks nm9stheham, Will do.
That passage (Vertical) is stepped for a reason of that plug. Your not drilling that out are you?
Alex5280
74' Duster
^ I was going to...I thought that was part of the Guitar Jones instructions, But I think you are right Rumble...don't need to drill that passage out.
-
Similar threads
