Need Help....No Power

[Hankrebel]

71 Swinger 318 AT
The car has been starting and running fine for weeks.
Put in the mini starter and it fires right up and strong.
Test drive around the block and some local drives with no issue.
Drive to a friends house and it sits for about 2 hours
Get in and drive 30 minutes to in-laws house

As Soon as I shut it off and open the door, I notice no dome light.
Check head lights and nothing
No dash lights or ignition....DEAD

I can jump the relay and it turns over but wont start
Battery cables tight and fuseable link still good
Checked fuses and all are good

Whats next?

 

[RustyRatRod]

When you jumped the relay did you have the ignition switch turned on?

 

[nm9stheham]

How did you check the fusible link? They normally don't just disconnect. Do you havea voltmeter? If not, buy a cheap one and it will be easy to trace the voltage through the system.

With no dome light, it could be that particular fuse, or the power feed to the headlight switch. See if the headlights will turn on; if not, then the problem lies in:
- the fusible link to the firewall
- the wiring from the firewall inside to the ammeter
- the ammeter itself
- the wire from the ammeter to the welded splice inside the harness
- or the wire from there to the headlight switch

The fusible link and firewall connections and ammeter are the most likely spots, in that order.

 

[Hankrebel]

The ignition was off when I jumped the relay.
I checked to make sure the fuseable link wasn't burnt out and still connected.
I get no power period to anything in the cabin.
I did not check the connections to the ammeter, but after looking at some other posts on here, I definitely will.
I keep seeing references to a MAD article that ongoing to dig into as well.
How hard is it to convert to a volts meter?

 

[AJ/FormS]

Youre getting ahead of yourself re the voltmeter. Recheck the link and the bulkhead connectors.The link can separate inside the insulating cover, and look perfectly normal. Give it a mild pull across the joints. Very rarely is the problem elsewhere than what nm9 details.
------
BTW. The electrons need to get back to the battery to do any work at all.So check all the ground returns between the body and the battery.Check them first. Especially the one(s) from the body to the engine, at the back of the passenger side head.

 

[nm9stheham]

A voltmeter can be connected a number of places; at the big lug at the starter relay is the best as it it gives the best idea on the battery charging voltage. BTW, when I referred to a voltmeter, I meant one with test leads for troubleshooting, not one to install permanently in the car. A 12v test light can be used instead as you check for voltage along the path described; but test lights don't give as much good info and can't be used for finer troubleshooting.

As above on the fusible link: it can blow out or separate anywhere along its length under the insulation. A weak, 'floppy' point in the wire is a sure sign it is blown there.

 

[AJ/FormS]

BTW, if the link is cooked, you will need to diagnose the why of it. It sacrifices itself in an effort to save your car from being involved in a fire. You can jump across it temporarily, with a HD ATO fuse holder for diagnostic testing. After you find and repair the short, be sure to replace the fuse-holder with the proper gauge/color Fusible-link.
Since the first sign of trouble was the opening of the door and no dome lite, I would check that circuit first. I know that circuit doesnt draw much when operating, but it may be shorted between the switch and the bulb. The most likely place would be behind the lite fixture, but could just as easily be at the switch, behind the kick panel.

 

[Hankrebel]

So I go over to the in laws house, put the key in and power is restored.
Turned the key and it fires right up with no problems?!
There was definitely something going on because there was a lot of fluctuation in the ammeter and the dome light would pulse
Since I had it started, we jumped in and drove it home.
Made it home with no issues and shut it off.
Checked the power and everything is working as normal: Headlights, dome light and open door buzzer
Turned the ley and it fired right up again....???

 

[70aarcuda]

bulkhead connector........wiggle the harness at the bulkhead went it is dead...and see if you get juice...chased this problem on 73 duster for a couple of weeks..

 

[67Dart273]

So I go over to the in laws house, put the key in and power is restored.
Turned the key and it fires right up with no problems?!
There was definitely something going on because there was a lot of fluctuation in the ammeter and the dome light would pulse
Since I had it started, we jumped in and drove it home.
Made it home with no issues and shut it off.
Checked the power and everything is working as normal: Headlights, dome light and open door buzzer
Turned the ley and it fired right up again....???

Start with the obvious........"main" connections, battery cables

EDUCATE yourself, "how do these cars work?"

Download a service manual, here

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617

More manuals here, and lots of other info

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

The third party diagrams there are simpler to follow sometimes, but not always complete and correct

Also read this.

http://www.madelectrical.com/

Here:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

This diagram illustrates the primary power. The main connections where you can lose power varies, but the main trouble children are the main battery cables / terminals, the fuse link, the bulkhead feed through on the RED wire, and the AMMETER terminals.

Also once in awhile the WELDED SPLICE fails. This is a splice under the dash in the BLACK ammeter wire a few inches from the ammeter

When you lose power do you also lose headlights? If so, you have a major failure in the circuit in that diagram

The diagram on that page IS IMPORTANT to understand. It covers "generally" how the main power feeds in these cars:

 

[Hotwheels sr.]

So I go over to the in laws house, put the key in and power is restored.
Turned the key and it fires right up with no problems?!
There was definitely something going on because there was a lot of fluctuation in the ammeter and the dome light would pulse
Since I had it started, we jumped in and drove it home.
Made it home with no issues and shut it off.
Checked the power and everything is working as normal: Headlights, dome light and open door buzzer
Turned the ley and it fired right up again....???

Can anyone give insight on the amp meter jumping around? I have all brand new wire harnesses under the hood. Ever since we got the car running the volt meter jumps around and dash lights pulse with it. Been trying to figure that out. Now today went to start, no dice. Nothing at the key, will turn over jumping relay but with key on won't start. Noticed the fusible link if cooked. I'm assuming it probably has something to do with the jumping volts . Please help.

 

[67Dart273]

Can anyone give insight on the amp meter jumping around? I have all brand new wire harnesses under the hood. Ever since we got the car running the volt meter jumps around and dash lights pulse with it. Been trying to figure that out. Now today went to start, no dice. Nothing at the key, will turn over jumping relay but with key on won't start. Noticed the fusible link if cooked. I'm assuming it probably has something to do with the jumping volts . Please help.

Please repost this in a new thread or else contact the moderators to move this post to a new thread

 

[pishta]

Wait, fusible link is cooked? -------just read that...


Sounds like a ground issue. The ammeter fluctuating is a sign that the charging circuit is modulating, ie changing due to a variable feedback loop, ie. voltage regulator signal. I would also check the ground of the VR, especially the electronic one as it uses the mounting plane as its ground. This wont help the no power in the cab issue, I think thats going to be the bulkhead connector. Remove it, clean it up as best as you can then pack it with dielectric grease (ask a cable TV installer for an old tube or use the tan axle grease) to prevent corrosion or a high resistance open. I had a Diamante that would just stop running randomly, it was the distributor harness that looked fine but had an internal open. I yanked on it and then it would not start..bingo!