Need input...440 rebuild or not?

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HemiMark

HemiMark

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I was bored tonight and I thought I would open up the 440 I bought about a year ago. the guy I got it from said it was rebuilt (bottom end) so I fiqured I would take a look...........

What do you boys think?

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Bearings look good. That's just the oxide layer being rubbed off and a couple particles of dirt in the oil, not a problem. Prelube her good before starting it.
 
Look very fresh to me to. Very fresh !!
 
I'm not thrilled with what i see.Did you check them all especially # 1 cylinder??These bearings are WIPED!
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
I'm not thrilled with what i see.Did you check them all especially # 1 cylinder??These bearings are WIPED!
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I only check the ones in the pic....I got tired......... I will look into the other rod and mains tomorrow..........
 
I would worry about the crush being lost in the bearings since they have been removed. If they don't fit the caps tight anymore you will need to replace them.......
 
I agree with Mr Lusk. They are only made to crush once. Bearings are cheap. They aren't too far away from new.....BUT, the sumbitch looks like it was assembled in the dirt. I say tear it back down, clean it up REAL good and go back with new rings and bearings so you'll KNOW what you have. I mean why not? You're already there.
 
HOGWASH!!!!! Bearing crush one time use??????????????????I have plastigauged probably 30 motors that I built as a cheap way to measure clearance to make sure the machine shop did its job which means the bearings were installed and torqued to specs, then loosened to check the clearance on the gauge, cleaned off the plastigauge and retorqued them. NEVER had a problem AFTER I reinstalled them and "crushed" them for the second time.
 
I would hit those with some scotch brite then see what they look like, I have re-used the same main/rod bearings for 3 tear downs (for yearly inspection)....no problems, runs real good.
 
dustoff440 said:
HOGWASH!!!!! Bearing crush one time use??????????????????I have plastigauged probably 30 motors that I built as a cheap way to measure clearance to make sure the machine shop did its job which means the bearings were installed and torqued to specs, then loosened to check the clearance on the gauge, cleaned off the plastigauge and retorqued them. NEVER had a problem AFTER I reinstalled them and "crushed" them for the second time.
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Easy boy. There's more than one type bearing. There ARE those that crush only ONE time and should not be reused. How are we supposed to know which bearings he has? I'm certainly not going to accept the liability of telling him to reuse them, when I don't know the whole picture? Are you ready to do that?
 
Bearing slook fine.Run your fingernail across the crank bearing surfaces,see if it catches on anything or if there is any bearing material sticking to it.

Then plastigage before assembly.

Have no clue on the crush thing but new bearing sets are cheap.
 
If it was rebuilt, it wasnt doen very well. There's crap imbedded in the surface, and the crank surface has contacted the bearing face a bit which tells me the crank's probably not turned well. Bearing crush is not "one time". Unless you dont know how to take them out without damage or the engine has issues of other sorts. What does the backside of the rod bearings look like and what are the dates on them? And the mating surfaces of the main caps and block? I'd like to see some rod bearings.
 
Something I learned here is sometimes you have to bite the bullet. If for nothing else the peice of mind of knowing the bearings are good.
 
Remember I said to check whether they are tight in the caps or not....... If not, they need to be replaced, otherwise it's the OP's call.
 
I agree with dustoff440. I have been a mechanic for 53 years. (old geezer) That is the biggest bunch of B--L S--T i ever heard. Steve
 
There is no crush--------just clearance.
If it crushed,what would the clearance be = 0000000000
You can take motors apart to check stuff and bolt them right back together.
The only thing you see happen, is a rod bolt won't torque because it's stretched to much.
Other then that, whats changed?????
Those bearings look fine.
It ran before you took it apart.
If somethings wrong with an engines bearings or oiling system, it won't need to be beat on like a race engine to fail.
It will fail all on it's own at idle.
If all the clearances are good and the oil system is working good, then you can beat on a stock engine just as hard as a race engine.
Race engines ,per say, are just stock engines pulling in more air at higher rpm's.....>>> ie.. better cylinder heads and cam and a matched valve train for the intended rpm.
 
moper said:
If it was rebuilt, it wasnt doen very well. There's crap imbedded in the surface, and the crank surface has contacted the bearing face a bit which tells me the crank's probably not turned well. Bearing crush is not "one time". Unless you dont know how to take them out without damage or the engine has issues of other sorts. What does the backside of the rod bearings look like and what are the dates on them? And the mating surfaces of the main caps and block? I'd like to see some rod bearings.
Click to expand...
X2 doesn't look like much clearance to me..I would at lest polish the crank.
 
StrokerScamp said:
I agree with Mr Lusk. They are only made to crush once. Bearings are cheap. They aren't too far away from new.....BUT, the sumbitch looks like it was assembled in the dirt. I say tear it back down, clean it up REAL good and go back with new rings and bearings so you'll KNOW what you have. I mean why not? You're already there.
Click to expand...

I agree with you two boys............... I'm just going to tear it apart and start over.................. Thank you.......
 
Be generous and give those bearings to someone other than the trash.
Hate to see waste.

1ST time I ever heard of "one crush bearings".
Once took the rod bearings out of an old race engine.
A lil scotch brite and into another set of rods and onto a different crank for about 50k so far.
I bet they still have their crush.
What manufacturer makes the "one crush bearings"?
Dumbfounded mind wants to know.
 
Im still puzzled on exactly what would be getting "crushed", they should be perfectatly round right out of the box. I think the word "crush" is a bit deceiving and sounds like some metal is gonna be hitting some metal=a big engine failure.
 
I agree with scamp. Could it have more dirt in it when assembled?
 
If there was no outer crush on the bearings they would just spin,What do ya think the alignment tabs keep em from turning, no way.
 
Bearing "crush" is what holds bearings in place and keeps them from spinning. Each bearing half is slightly longer than the rod or cap, main or cap that it is installed in. When the caps are torqued into place, the part of each bearing shell that "sticks out" comes in contact with each other and causes a "crush" effect, which forces the bearing halfs firmyl against the rods/caps, mains/caps and holds them firmly in place. That's what keeps bearings from spinning. And no, bearings are not round at all. Here is some good reading on the subject. they can, over time, lose the ability to maintain that crush. Also, there WERE "one crush" bearings made at one time, although I can find no info on them at the moment. This is a good read.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/68208/get_your_bearings.aspx
 
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