Need Input. I want to Omit the Power Booster, and run Non-Power Disc Brakes.

-
Prine

Prine

A-Body Fanatic
Joined
Feb 15, 2008
Messages
1,697
Reaction score
98
Location
Oregon
Just like the title says. I have searched and cannot really come up with a answer. Lots of people want to upgrade to Power Disc brakes from front drums....seems no-one wants to omit the booster and just run non-power front disc.

Can someone tell me how to go about achieving this?

From the looks of it, it looks like you could just remove the booster and bolt a Disc Brake Master Cylinder on with the same/different pedal rod, bleed it and go to town, but I am not positive so I need some knowledgeable input.

Thanks
 
you can i run manual disc in the front. all i did was get a new master cylinder and rod
 
I went from drum to 4 piston KH Disk. I omitted the booster, added a dual master and I have no problem stopping the car with no extra effort.
 
Sounds easy enough...is the rod that actuates the power booster, sufficient? Or is there a specific rod I am looking for?

I priced a disc/drum master cylinder at like $26!!!
 
You can also use the later model master cylinder from a dodge mini van or a dodge dakota,these can be had from summit or your local auto parts store.It gives you the feel of power brakes with out the booster.Its easier to order it from summit because you need a adapter that goes from your current 4 bolt to the new 2 bolt style.
 
I don`t know if it`s the later one , but I went to manual brakes when I put the discs on the front and we used a larger ( I think it was 13/16 ) manual brake master cylinder . I think it has better feel than the old power system I had JMHO
 
I did this in my 74 Satellite, all I did was remove the booster and installed a manual brake rod from a Road Runner, I may have also had to change the master cylinder bracket that mounts to the firewall, can't remember but I am sure a 74 B-body is different anyway.
 
done it on two A bodies....

removed the booster and master cylinder...

installed new mopar master cylinder on street driven 73 duster using adapter 4 bolt to 2 bolt...bought mopar adjustable rod...the car has the stock disc brakes on it..

71 dart..removed drums...installed KH disc ..removed booster and master cylinder ...installed manual brake cylinder with pushrod...
 
Kelly, thats all I did on the DartSter. If I remember right, back then I just removed the booster, I think I did swap pushrods. Search "Raybestos # MC36412" Thats the master cylinder that shows for manual disc/drum factory setup. Man, I had to clean out the proportioning block today, the rear ciruit was just gunked full with dirt. Now fluid will pump to the rear, finally. No more driving through my deck now!!
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
I have factory, non power, disc brakes and they work great.
Click to expand...

Hows the pedal effort?

I thought I was going to just use the dual diaphragm booster,but there are many space issues around putting a big block in an A already without me creating more problems,lol.

We shall see. I think I'll mock up everything this year and see how it looks.Inner fenders are going so my concern may be for nothing anyways.
 
I haven't found any difference between the manual disc and manual drum pushrod. They look the same to me.


Chuck
 
I just went from Powered brakes to manual using a hilux master Cylinder.

Works awsome ,was a resonse to lack of Vacuum from cam.

Had a car swing in front of me at half track during the season and managed to miss him at speed using the brakes and turning -no lock up or fade on the
brakes.

Old set up would have tee boned him without any doubt.

Cheers

Benton
 
Hilux?Pardon my ignorance but could you explain a bit more?
 
Toyota made a Hilux pickup years ago. In Australia it may mean something else. Like the Mopar Utes.


Chuck
 
Sorry I can't add anything to the "how to" portion of this thread but I'll chime in on preference and feel.
I'm running stock manual disk brakes on my 73, and like everyone else, firm pedal but not hard, ( nice feel IMHO ), can still lock them up if I try. Very predictable. I've always felt that power brakes felt too soft at first then too grabby all of a sudden.
 
Manual disc brakes work just fine, especially when using the larger 11.75 rotors. I always recommend a late model aluminum master cylinder. To make that work you need the adapter from Mancini Racing or Doctor Dif as well as a manual brake pushrod.

Doctor Diff is the guy to talk to, he can supply the correct master cylinder as well as the adapter, heat shield and pushrod.
 
Hilux?Pardon my ignorance but could you explain a bit more?
Click to expand...

Toyota Hilux is a mid size 4WD ,used the latest version master cylinder
Changed the rod a tadge and away I went.Best upgrade (Downgrade) I have done in a while.
 
So, if he has 10" manual brakes now and he upgrades to 4piston KH manual front brakes, his manual pushrod will work and his manual two section master cylinder will still work...yes?
 
pauls340 said:
So, if he has 10" manual brakes now and he upgrades to 4piston KH manual front brakes, his manual pushrod will work and his manual two section master cylinder will still work...yes?
Click to expand...


If you upgrade to disc brakes you should get a disc brake master cylinder.
 
First, what year and model car is this we're talking about?? Second, yes, he can run the dual chamber master cylinder from his drum setup, but that depends on the year and model of his car. For example, the correct master cylinder for a 1969 Dart with manual 4 piston KH disc is a dual chamber master with equal resoivoirs. If this were a single piston setup, the volume of fluid needed in reserve for the increased bore size of the piston requires a larger resoivoir. The manual drum and disc pushrod are the same, at least in the early A's. Not so sure about the later ones or Prines particular model. If he is in need of a pushrod from an early A, I can provide that. Let me know, Geof
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top