Needing advice on 360

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4.7 and 3.7 head bolts are torque to yield, 5.2 and 5.9 I don't recall any having them.
 
txstang84 said:
...because one guy says they are? Ehhh, not terribly convinced...


Quote:
Head Bolts
The Magnum uses different head bolts than the LA engine — all of the long bolts on a Magnum are the same length. Additionally, some of the Magnum engines used Torque To Yield bolts, and as such are not reusable. Fortunately, ARP makes stronger-than-stock head bolts for Magnum engines.

....this is from magnumswap.com
Click to expand...

Quote:
Head Bolts

some of the Magnum engines used Torque To Yield bolts, and as such are not reusable.


Torque to yield bolts ARE REUSABLE.

We don't have the proper equipment in our home garages to do "torque to yield". It's expensive.


However, they have to have a "service" or "repair" spec. It will usually fall in the range of 45 foot pounds + 90° turn. This is acceptable for a factory or home repair also.


You shouldn't use a torque to yield bolt more than 5 times as it will eventually get overstretched and then break.
 
Was that really necessary?

Wow...guess you must be a materials specialist...you go on ahead and keep on reusing those single use bolts...by the way, the factory installs TTY bolts in a similar method you described...so, once they stretch, they don't snap back.

I'll spend the $45 for at least some factory replacements and be much more confident they're not going to snap when torqued to spec...and yes, I have had it happen.

press on krazy...
 
txstang84 said:
Was that really necessary?

Wow...guess you must be a materials specialist...you go on ahead and keep on reusing those single use bolts...by the way, the factory installs TTY bolts in a similar method you described...so, once they stretch, they don't snap back.

I'll spend the $45 for at least some factory replacements and be much more confident they're not going to snap when torqued to spec...and yes, I have had it happen.

press on krazy...
Click to expand...



Wow!


If ignorance is bliss, you are orgasmic.... :toothy2:


I used to set up the machines that torqued the bolts. I have worked with bolt suppliers, fastener engineering, and machine builders to set up the factory assembly lines. I have written the assembly instructions for engine assembly lines. The line that I set up made more than 3.5 million engines....


Please explain to me how the bolts "snap back"..... :happy1:
 
http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/a1_4.html

...hmm...science and stuff...weird.

Good for you on the "gotcha" credentials. Good for you and your 3.5M engines and your coordination with fastener supply and procurement.

I've coordinated with Air Logistics Centers, System Programs Offices, and Boeing defense contractors on USAF fleetwide TCTOs that directly affected critical weight and balance functions and the combat viability of 66 $325M aircraft...I've also led the maintenance and sortie production effort for 36 assigned aircraft which compiled over 3.2K annual sorties with an unprecedented 96% maintenance scheduling effectiveness rating, with a positive delta of yearly flying hour and sortie contracts along with paving the way for graduation of 14 combat weapons trained flight crews...and if that weren't enough, performed 68 critical turbine engine key task list installation inspections during deployed operations to provide support to Soldiers and Marines perpetually in contact with enemy forces.

You have your genre...I have mine.

Standard non-TTY bolts have approximately 6 useful torqueing cycles before they stretch beyond plastic limits...TTY bolts-do not.

BLUF (Bottom Line Up Front for the uninitiated): it's cheaper to buy new bolts, once, that will clamp with the rated load. But it's not my engine, and I couldn't give a **** less...it was a nickel's worth of free advice that may or legitimately may not have an effect on his build, but it damn sure couldn't hurt.
 
to the OP: I wish you the best, hope your heads come out crack free and you can just bolt 'em back down with new gaskets and roll
 
txstang84 said:
Standard non-TTY bolts have approximately 6 useful torqueing cycles before they stretch beyond plastic limits...TTY bolts-do not.
Click to expand...


Yes, those bolts, I would not reuse. The body of the bolt is much thinner than the threads.


On our lines, we used the "standard" bolts with a torque to yield torquing strategy. It's a more accurate way of controlling clamp load.
 
Walker434 said:
Ok so this past winter I did a 360 magnum junkyard build. Tore an 80,000 mile magnum 360 down and everything looked great so I left the bottom end alone. Put Mr. Gasket 0.28 head gaskets on to up the compression a bit. Went with the stock uncracked heads and put on the Hughes 1110 springs becuase I went with a comp custom grind cam. Basically mimicked the 380/360 magnum crate build.

The swap went as planned this Feb and I have been having a blast in this car with this budget build until a few days ago. I was on a lonely road working on my holeshot becuase I was getting ready to take it to the drag strip for the first time. Holeshot went good shifted into 2nd about 5,500 and then it started blowing white smoke out of the passenger side tailpipe and blowing antifreeze everywhere.

I shut the car down and assumed I had blown a head gasket. There was antifreeze everywhere under the hood and it seemed to have gotten compression in the cooling system becuase it blew my water pump gasket and my over flow tube. I then towed the car home and planned on replacing the head gasket.

Last Sunday I finally had time to work on the car. Pulled the passenger side head and to my suprise the head gasket looks fine. So, I'm thinking that maybe it cracked that head. I couldn't visually see any cracks so I took the head to have it tested. The machine shop tested the head and says it's fine.

So could I have blown the head gasket on the driver's side and it blew white smoke out of passenger side? I hope I didn't crack the block but I can't see any cracks and the oil is not milky. I guess my next plan will be to pull the driver's side head and check it out when I have time.

Just trying to pick some FABO brains to see if someone has run into this before. Now is probably time to upgrade to some better heads I'm just trying to make sure I haven't screwed anything else up.

Thanks in advance for the help.
Click to expand...

If you are blowing white smoke, you are burning coolant.

Did you see any antifreeze in any of the cylinders when you took the head off?

Have you run a compression test or leak down test in each cylinder to isolate which one is having "trouble"?


What was your piston to valve clearance when you put the engine together with the new cam/head gasket?


If you are getting white smoke out of the tailpipe, you are getting coolant in your cylinder. Are you sure that you haven't cracked a cylinder?


I would run a compression test and/or leak down test on the other side before removing the head, to see if it was leaking. After removing the head, you can't trace it back to a head gasket if that is the case.


Try to isolate which cylinder is having the problem, so you can take a closer look at that one.


From you "practicing your holeshot", you may have kissed a valve.


Also, there should be antifreeze in one of your cylinders when you tear the engine down.
 
Wow I have been really busy at work and just now got to check this. Thanks for the suggestions. Just to clarify I did use new factory replacement head bolts when I put this engine together. The machine shop milled 4 thousanths off the passenger side head to be sure it's flat.

I hope to have some time this Sunday to do some thorough inspection on the cylinders on the passenger side to make sure there are no cracks in the cylinders. If the block is ok I then plan to do a compression check on the driver's side before I take the driver's side head off. If that head gasket looks fine and those cylinders look fine I will take that head in to the machine shop to have it pressure checked and milled as well.

I will keep you guys posted on my progress. If everything checks out ok I might switch to fel pro head gaskets. I do plan on using new head bolts when everything goes back together.
 
Were you running at high RPM when it blew ??

Walker434 said:
So could I have blown the head gasket on the driver's side and it blew white smoke out of passenger side? I hope I didn't crack the block but I can't see any cracks and the oil is not milky. I guess my next plan will be to pull the driver's side head and check it out when I have time.
Click to expand...

Yes, either head gskt could leak compression into the cooling system,, you likely saw steam outta the same side as blew out of the water pump gskt.. ??

You need to pull both heads

doogievlg said:
I'm not really sure what would have caused this but I don't believe the smoke came from the other side. Could be wrong.
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Is it possible that the waterpump gasket just blew,, and spewed enuff coolant into the air/cleaner that you saw steam out the back ??

You would see steam out back without going thru the engine...

While changing the pump gskt,, check the W/pump and t/cover gskt surfaces for true..

Most weak hoses, rads, gskts tend to blow at hi rpm..

food for thought

hope it helps
 
Yes I was at about 5,500 RPM when this happened. Ok I had a few minutes to work on the car yesterday. Pulled the plugs on the driver's side and stuck a zip tie down in each cylinder to make sure they were dry. They were. Did a compression check and all checked good at 180 lbs so the drivers side does not seem to be the problem. Checked all the passenger side cylinders for cracks and found none. At this point I think I am going to put it all back together and assume it was the passenger side head gasket failure. Unless you guys have any other ideas?
 
Just to update this thread I got the engine put back together this weekend. Checked compression on passenger side and all cylinders were right at 180 like the drivers side so I hooked everything up and started it.

Everything seems great! At first my idle was too high but I got the floates on the carb adjusted and now it runs perfect.

Glad to have my ride back! Thanks for the help.
 
If they blow again use fel-pro 1008, or 9898PT. Unless the deck and heads are real flat, those .028 gaskets blow a bunch. A .5 bump in compression is 5HP, 1 is 10HP not worth having 0HP when you blow.
 
Walker434 said:
Yes I was at about 5,500 RPM when this happened. Ok I had a few minutes to work on the car yesterday. Pulled the plugs on the driver's side and stuck a zip tie down in each cylinder to make sure they were dry. They were. Did a compression check and all checked good at 180 lbs so the drivers side does not seem to be the problem. Checked all the passenger side cylinders for cracks and found none. At this point I think I am going to put it all back together and assume it was the passenger side head gasket failure. Unless you guys have any other ideas?
Click to expand...


5500....how about 7500 with those gaskets....5500 is coming off the transbrake....

have used many of those mp or mr gasket thin gaskets over the years....never had one problem with them....
 
70aarcuda said:
5500....how about 7500 with those gaskets....5500 is coming off the transbrake....

have used many of those mp or mr gasket thin gaskets over the years....never had one problem with them....
Click to expand...

Agreed. Proper prep,it's good to go.
 
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