new balancer too tight

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65TerrorCuda

65TerrorCuda

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Tried searching for this problem and coming up short. Got a CAT balancer(I know, this is likely the culprit) and trying to install it on a 1965 273 crank. Even using the installer tool from Autozone I can't get this thing to go on. It starts to go on, then goes slightly crooked and gets real difficult so I stop.

On the inside of this new balancer there's a significant step where the inner diameter gets smaller. The original balancer has a smooth transition and never hangs up like this new balancer does. Haven't busted out the BFH yet because I've heard of splitting balancer hubs(the CAT website even mentions this). Did crankshaft hubs get smaller after 1965?
 
65TerrorCuda said:
Tried searching for this problem and coming up short. Got a CAT balancer(I know, this is likely the culprit) and trying to install it on a 1965 273 crank. Even using the installer tool from Autozone I can't get this thing to go on. It starts to go on, then goes slightly crooked and gets real difficult so I stop.

On the inside of this new balancer there's a significant step where the inner diameter gets smaller. The original balancer has a smooth transition and never hangs up like this new balancer does. Haven't busted out the BFH yet because I've heard of splitting balancer hubs(the CAT website even mentions this). Did crankshaft hubs get smaller after 1965?
Click to expand...

I would try to get it on enough so you get a good bite on the threads with the Crankshaft Bolt and then use a ratchet on it. The washer on the bolt should keep it straight, I would maybe also use a tad of white lithium grease to ease the pain.......
 
how about throwing it in the over for a bit. maybe it will open up enough long enough to get it on
 
abodyjoe said:
how about throwing it in the over for a bit. maybe it will open up enough long enough to get it on
Click to expand...

Throwing it in the over? wth?....... Oh! The oven! lol. Might damage the rubber in the damper.

65terror,

If it doesn't fit, don't beat it on. Get the right damper from a more reputable firm.
 
Have you tryed a little antisieze compound ?
 
It's a fluid type damper and I don't know if it would like the oven too much. Maybe some hot water? It's the basis for a blower drive, so I don't want this bugger turning into 5000 rpm of shrapnel.
Maybe I should measure the inner diameter of both dampers. I dunno, might mean actually using my head.

Redfish: yeah, I used antisieze from the start, but perhaps I should consult the hand sledge- gently
 
I had the same issue with a PWR one, got it stuck on and messed it up trying to take it off, the crank was ok though. I checked the instructions and they said to heat it to 200 deg first.

Balancer doesn't look pretty after I "removed" it so never tried heating it, I couldnt even get the bolt to start.

Not to hijack but what's a good balancer?
 
i had the same prob. with my new one called the man.they said some have that prob.(go figure)i said so what are you telling me( the answer) take it to a machine shop and get them to open it up.i said ill just send it back and you do it wrong.i had it on my shelf for 6months and warranties only good for 90 days. soooooooo i took it to my machine shop and opened it up 5th. and still had to put it in the oven for 10min.i told the man he should give his monkeys a course on reading mics.
 
I had the same issue with a ROMAC balancer, I spent an hour or so (8-9 beers) with some 600 grit sand paper working the inside bore and got it to work nicely.

Whatever you do DO NOT hammer it on or use the bolt to pull it on you WILL REGRET it. If you have access to the proper tool, use it.
 
Just got one from Summit- they said oven for 15 min. went to Ace Hardware, they had a grade 8 fine thread bolt longer than the original- just pulled it on.
 
Before going any further measure the I.D. of both damperers and compare. Are you using a new woodruff key, if so put it in the groove of the crank nose and measure how proud it is then compare that to the depth of the keyway on the dampener. If the dampener keyway is not cut deep enough the dampener will hang up and not go on. Also, you could measure the size of the old key and compare the keyway depth on the new dampener to the old one.
Yes, as Green above said get a new fine thread bolt 1/2" longer and draw it up with that until you can use the stock short bolt and get 5-6 threads on it. Also use the hardened steel washer, file off any high spots, so you can draw the dampener on straight. I changed my dampener out earlier this year with no problem.

Terry
 
blower car deserves better. you will constantly worry about sub par parts and not enjoy your ride.ask me how i know. i didnt scrimp on quality anywhere this time.
 
I'm going to measure diameters and keyway depths on both dampeners. Original woodruff key. And daredevil, I wanna hear about it.

8-9 beers huh? Was that lite or fancy stuff? Did you wet-sand at 600 grit, I'm guessing.

I'm wondering how good the installer I got from Autozone is. It's got that bearing and a big shaft to pull the balancer on, but it allows more wobble than just using the long bolt and washer combo. Maybe get to try that out this weekend.
Mic first!
 
Mic them. You should have a tight fit... it wont work with no press fit at all. Please don't use a hammer. The rental installer sounds liek it was perfect... Summit sells a good one too. AS far as temps... an over at 200° might be fine. But as it's fluid filled, I'd ask them about it first...
 
I have ati damper on my car, it was very tight going on, I used a damper intaller, went one ok just a little tight. I remove it with damper puller when i freshed the motor up, came off ok, reinstalled with the installer, again very tight fit, but had no problems. I used a little never sieze on it also.
 
Okay so I measured it. The new balancer is bigger by a couple thousandths on inner diameter and keyway groove width. All I can figure is that abrupt diameter change inside the hub is causing the problems. I think I'll try to smooth it out without changing the diameters. I'd post pics but, prolly not enough posts!
 
Does the woodruff key have any marks on it or the ends pulled up at all? The dampener should be about .0005-.001" smaller than the crank. Not larger. It's a press fit...
 
The key looks fine, as much as I can see anyways. I meant to say the damper measurements are larger for the new damper vs the old one- by like .001.
Actually got an email back from CAT and they said to heat the damper. They didn't say how! I'm thinking I'll just set it in the sun and try that and more anti-sieze. Man that stuff is messy. Makes me want to put it on the bottom of a doorknob somewhere like my neighbors house.
 
try this polish the crank snout with fine wet or dry paper or/and a dremel tool and hone the damper like the correct size brake hone or some engine hone which will polish it at the same time. also if there is any paint inside it will need to be removed.
 
I too bought an offshore damper and my machinist had to hone the bore in order for it to fit the snout. He said he always checks the offshore dampers and they usually need to be fit.
 
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