New Best on Friday Night!

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That was a great run and an excellent 60'! What distributor/ignition and timing are you running? Ended up at 38* total on my HEI and a narrow jet spread (68/73) on my 770 street avenger carb. My MPH is around 89 with an almost identical build as yours. JY 5.9.
I tune mine with a Wideband. Takes a lot of the guesswork out.
 
You still have the better problem than most... a strongish 60' time. Could be 11.90-12.00 at 111ish with that 60'. With your 60', you would like to be in the 7.50's for 1/8 mile at 90ish mph.

Now work on why it's losing time down track and bring that around. mderoy's slip is a pretty good example for you to try and achieve. Makes a good move the last half of track.

Yeah Rob, I'm still losing time down the track. I think it may be a fuel delivery issue. I'm going to buy a fuel pressure gauge to mount on the cowl so I can watch it as I go down the track.

Once I get everything sorted out my goal is to get this car into the 11.90s. Like you said I think this is achievable due to my strong 60 ft.
 
That was a great run and an excellent 60'! What distributor/ignition and timing are you running? Ended up at 38* total on my HEI and a narrow jet spread (68/73) on my 770 street avenger carb. My MPH is around 89 with an almost identical build as yours. JY 5.9.
I tune mine with a Wideband. Takes a lot of the guesswork out.

Thanks, I am running an MSD distributor with a blaster 2 coil and an MSD 6 al box. I bought a 14 degree bushing from Crackedback for my distributor so I am currently running 22 initial and 36 total timing. I've tried less but that seems to be what the car likes. A wideband is one of my next purchases as well. Although, I am enjoying learning how to read plugs the old fashioned way.

I will be thrilled if I can get this heap into the 11s. It's already a pretty decent sleeper as is. Stock bench interior, column shift, rough paint. Nobody expects this thing to run.
 
Yeah Rob, I'm still losing time down the track. I think it may be a fuel delivery issue. I'm going to buy a fuel pressure gauge to mount on the cowl so I can watch it as I go down the track.

Once I get everything sorted out my goal is to get this car into the 11.90s. Like you said I think this is achievable due to my strong 60 ft.

A fuel pressure gauge that you can read, going down the the track is a must. plug reading can be inaccurate if you are loosing pressure down track.......

Thanks, I am running an MSD distributor with a blaster 2 coil and an MSD 6 al box. I bought a 14 degree bushing from Crackedback for my distributor so I am currently running 22 initial and 36 total timing. I've tried less but that seems to be what the car likes. A wideband is one of my next purchases as well. Although, I am enjoying learning how to read plugs the old fashioned way.

I will be thrilled if I can get this heap into the 11s. It's already a pretty decent sleeper as is. Stock bench interior, column shift, rough paint. Nobody expects this thing to run.

learning to read spark plugs can be better than a o2 sensor. If something goes bad on a run and you don't have a recordable o2 or you didn't hit record............You can still pull a plug and see what's up.
A o2 can Not show you the sindars on porcelain, indicating that your entering into detonation (Aluminum spec from piston)
 
If you get the wideband, I asked summit to price match fle-bay and went from a little over $200 to just a smidgen over $150. :thumbup:
 
I haven't installed my Innovate MTX-L on anything yet but am getting anxious for sure!
 
I haven't installed my Innovate MTX-L on anything yet but am getting anxious for sure!

For me it was a no-brainer to get an O2 sensor for 2 carburetors. Let alone the fact that I barely know what I'm doing it gives me at least an idea of where I have things set. It does get a little hard to read when you're in the excitement of your pass down the track, but I have looked at it a couple times. It's funny the thing is right there and completely in my line of sight and I miss looking at it almost every time even if I'd say I'm going to before I even leave the starting line. The likelihood of me being able to afford a recording device is not likely.
 
When I saw the plug my first thought was a rich carb and too hot a plug.

The plug looks ok at the end and center porcelain butreal rich at the base , so this usually means the engine is too rich but the plug is hot enough to burn it off.
Well, when you lean it down to cure the richness that plug is going to get hotter.
Not a good thing if it's already hot enough to burn off the richness with the mixture you are running now.

Did that make it more confusing or did I explain that ok? :D
 
Yeah Rob, I'm still losing time down the track. I think it may be a fuel delivery issue. I'm going to buy a fuel pressure gauge to mount on the cowl so I can watch it as I go down the track.

Once I get everything sorted out my goal is to get this car into the 11.90s. Like you said I think this is achievable due to my strong 60 ft.


If you do not want to mount the fuel pressure gauge on the cowl (I didn't want to for several reasons...one being is th way it looks and another I don't like to scratch paint etc.) you can buy an isolator and mount it in the car. It is NOT legal to mount the gauge in the car without the isolator. I bought the isolator.

The other thing is the WBo2. I am not opposed to them, BUT if you live and die by them without having other options you can get just as screwed up, or more screwed up than without it. Different fuels require different A/F ratios, and one size does not fit all. This is why I am big on reading plugs and helping people who are willing to learn, to learn to do it. It takes time and effort. But once you learn it, you have one more tool in your tune up Arsenal to make you that much harder to beat.

The other thing about WBo2 sensors is if you have to look at it during a run, unless you are one super dude, they are essentially worthless. They need to have the capability to be downloaded to a computer and the data analyzed. A quick glance down the track is just a snap shot and the chances of reading it correctly, and with any reasonable accuracy. You need to download a full run and look at the date.


That being said, I know a guy who has made thousands and thousands and thousands of runs in the same car he has had since the mid 1970's. He has a WBo2 but he does not use it every pass. He only hooks it up when he is making a change, or is just wanting to verify tune up. When this particular gentleman tells me he made a run, and was monitoring his WBo2 and saw the numbers during the run, him I believe. He would be the exception to the rule.


To the OP...like I said, I'm not opposed to you buying a WBo2 or anyone else. Just be careful you do not end up in mental overload trying to master too many things at once. You also invite the good idea fairy to drop by and those little fairies often promote paralysis by analysis. Which next leads to mental masturbation and you know what happens next lol.

A thoughtful, careful learning curve, which doesn't require a second and/or third mortgage or a divorce and keeps th fun in learning is much better that spending $$$$$$$ and never getting the mastery over any of it.

Keep us posted. Learning is fun and good.
 
I run a wbO2 and have it mounted near the Tach. I use a cheap camera to video both gauges during a run. Easy to go back and look at shift points and AFR the next day.
 
I run a wbO2 and have it mounted near the Tach. I use a cheap camera to video both gauges during a run. Easy to go back and look at shift points and AFR the next day.
Great idea ! I'm going to remount that wideband O2 sensor right next to that blue shift light that I'm always watching on the tachometer.
 
ok guys, just wanted to update on my progress or nonpregress. I am losing time down the track so I recently installed a 3/8 sending unit/pickup and 3/8 line to the pump then the carb. That gave me about 9lbs of fuel pressure at idle so I then installed a fuel pressure regulator.

Hoping this might solve my problems I went to the 1/8 mile track last night. It didn't. Car ran the same. Excellent 60 ft times but still doesn't seem to live up to its potential on the big end. I think I may try to run less timing next time out. Could it be that this thing is just a beast down low? Really, 7.83 in the 1/8th isn't shabby for my mild budget combo I just keep chasing more because of my awesome 60ft times. Any thoughts are appreciated
 
ok guys, just wanted to update on my progress or nonpregress. I am losing time down the track so I recently installed a 3/8 sending unit/pickup and 3/8 line to the pump then the carb. That gave me about 9lbs of fuel pressure at idle so I then installed a fuel pressure regulator.

Hoping this might solve my problems I went to the 1/8 mile track last night. It didn't. Car ran the same. Excellent 60 ft times but still doesn't seem to live up to its potential on the big end. I think I may try to run less timing next time out. Could it be that this thing is just a beast down low? Really, 7.83 in the 1/8th isn't shabby for my mild budget combo I just keep chasing more because of my awesome 60ft times. Any thoughts are appreciated

Here's a few things that may help.

With 89 octane I run 26* initial, 34* total mechanical, 50* with vacuum. I use manifold vacuum and run 28* at 1000 rpm. 34* total is what is best for me.

You maybe leaning out at the top end. You can go smaller on the Main Air Bleed to richen top end. .002 increment if .028 go to .026 AFR 12.4 works the best for me.

If running Drag radial use as much psi as you can and still hook. Taller tire = more speed at the big end. I run 20 psi MT ET Street 255/60/15

I drive to the track and my car always runs the slowest on the 1st pass. I don't use the #s from the 1st run for data. Uncapping the cutouts improves rev speed.
 
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