NEW BLOCKS BY DART

-
Lol it's all good, has some good billet stuff on his site, don't the Ford's have the same bolts pattern as mopars for fuel block off and thermostat housings?
 
Lol it's all good, has some good billet stuff on his site, don't the Ford's have the same bolts pattern as mopars for fuel block off and thermostat housings?

Not too sure about all that. I know the Chevys and Mopars have the fuel pump patterns. We sell the block off plates at work and they are marked Chevy/Mopar. Don't know about the thermostat pattern.

I find it really funny that there's even an aftermarket block made for an obscure engine like the Cleveland and yet, no one makes a decently affordable block for the Mopar. If it wasn't so sad, it'd be laughable.

......and how many different blocks are there for the Chevys?
 
Apparently none anymore? Just quoting from the other site...

"I'm stepping out on a flimsy limb but my Ritter block will be coming home next week and QMP said it machined up real nice.

I know all the guys will say "it's not tested, how many problems?, how much more did you spend, ect...

All I can say is it is a real nice piece, I stepped up to the plate and took a swing because I wanted to make some serious steam in a small block.

Kent was up front and very honest,that being said he sold 7 that's right 7 new ones that I know of. I haven't heard a bad word yet on one of the 7 new blocks.

Under 3k and I'm not sure what the machine bill will be but you have to have any new block machined.

Bored to 4.185"
Decked to 9.580"
Line honed
Extra was I had the cam tunnel opened up to 60mm roller.
" Posted by Biginchmopar on moparts.
 
And with what problems?

See my post above, like I said I have one, the block is much better then previous ones, machining is no more then a R block takes, had mine checked out thoroughly, just to make sure also by QMP here in California. QMP checked everything on their cnc machine, I only had the one issue due to some wording misconception and that was, from Hughes website all blocks use a 360 oil pan, but if you order 340 mains the rear cap is machined for a 340 pan as well, but I had already bought and modified a 360 pan. Awesome thing was called Kent cause it happened a few time due to this from Hughes site, but sent it back to Kent and he remachined it for free, just paid shipping there, he covered shipping it back. If I didn't have my shoulder surgery I am almost ready to install the block just need a few more things, and working with the priority main oiling and the use of la and magnum parts is just taking some creativity.
 
@Matts440

OK, let me get this straight so I understand. Not to be a jerk. So, as you state, the Ritter block is an otherwise good to go block currently.

Normal machining practices to be performed and as expected with a new block just like Ma made.

Are there any special needs to make use of a roller cam?

Any special parts needed?

Thanks Matt
 
Yeah, I did do some upgrades like roller cam bearings, but you can do regular bearings, I would still bush the lifters bores, though Kent did move the galley up, it's not off to the side like Ma mopar but still so that's the only thing extra I would do, but other wise yes it's a great block. I can't wait to push the numbers I'm looking at. Only special part is the rear main seal but you get one from Kent with the block and if you don't simply call it email him and he will send you out one, not sure if I just missed it or missed placed it when I got the block, but he sent me out a new one. They are set up for W heads so if not using them the upper bolt holes might get in the way for use with la and magnum heads but think the r blocks were the same. Oh and most have been drilling 1/2" holes in the enclosed cam tunnel but that isn't anything to big of a deal to help with drain back. And you need two small npt plugs at the front China wall, forget the size, the two right next to my brass fitting to feed the mains first.

20180514_200445.jpg
 
Last edited:
And with what problems?

I just read on MoParts of the last 7 blocks out there being flawless. Time to move on from the small issues that the Ritter had.

I can tell that most guys in this hobby don't really understand how **** works. Ritter busted his *** to help the Chrysler guys. He was underfunded and under supported but somehow, he managed to produce a block. And then the whiners come out because (as I've said many times) if you can't buy a block like a pop tart the Chrysler guys will *****.

He has fixed the issues. And yes, it takes longer because not only do very few people even screw with Chrysler **** any more, but the ones that do still want to run stock rockers.

This is why the Chrysler guys don't get ****. We didn't get **** from 1979 when I started and we still don't get **** now.
 
I just read on MoParts of the last 7 blocks out there being flawless. Time to move on from the small issues that the Ritter had.

I can tell that most guys in this hobby don't really understand how **** works. Ritter busted his *** to help the Chrysler guys. He was underfunded and under supported but somehow, he managed to produce a block. And then the whiners come out because (as I've said many times) if you can't buy a block like a pop tart the Chrysler guys will *****.

He has fixed the issues. And yes, it takes longer because not only do very few people even screw with Chrysler **** any more, but the ones that do still want to run stock rockers.

This is why the Chrysler guys don't get ****. We didn't get **** from 1979 when I started and we still don't get **** now.


Frankly, you really ought to know more history about these block before deciding to poop on those who know how lousy and unusable many were that he shipped out.
Its good to hear the last few are fine. That wasnt the case for a very long time. Many are ashtrays
 
Frankly, you really ought to know more history about these block before deciding to poop on those who know how lousy and unusable many were that he shipped out.
Its good to hear the last few are fine. That wasnt the case for a very long time. Many are ashtrays


I know that the first few were bad. I get it. It happens. The problem is he was the only one even making an effort.

Actually, how many of the first blocks shipped were actually unusable? I know of only two. I may not know of all of them.
 
I know that the first few were bad. I get it. It happens. The problem is he was the only one even making an effort.

Actually, how many of the first blocks shipped were actually unusable? I know of only two. I may not know of all of them.

Dont know an exact number. Its more shipping out something you know is bad that turned my stomach.
 
Sorry Rumble...I should have read a few more posts before unloading on you!!

I apologize. My bad.
Oh hey! No worries. I certainly didn’t take it personal. But I do get what your saying. For me, when I first heard and read and read and read about them I signed off on them until things were ironed out. I am on moparts every now and again but it isn’t a fav spot of mine. So I missed the latest news on them for a long time.

As for myself, I just can not invest in a newly released block with teething issues. I do so VERY much appreciate what Ritter has done from the get to and fist pumped in the air when he started it.

Now do I call Ritter direct?
Or E mail him at ????

@Matts440 Thanks again for the tips and pictures.
I’m starting to feel those crazy creative juices flowing again.
 
Yeah you call him directly and tell him what you all want done, bore, deck, main size, lifter angle. There are two bore sizes, mains, and decks. Any time I am here for any questions anyone has, and gladly help and show what I have all done with mine, most pictures are up on my build thread in forced induction section 67 twin turbo dart.

kent@ritter-racing.biz
Or
Kent.ritter@arvos-group.com

Cell: 585-610-9979
 
Last edited:
True it did, I researched the crap out of these blocks before I bought mine, talked to people who have or had them, Shilo was awesome to talk to and giving pointers to look at, also the guy on moparts who bought the aluminum one on what he found, had to change and also gave the list to Kent who made some changes to the molds, so it's great to know Kent is listening to those who get his blocks. Hopefully more will buy them, once I can, I'm looking to make 1000hp + with mine, the casting is thick, they have great potential.
 
True it did, I researched the crap out of these blocks before I bought mine, talked to people who have or had them, Shilo was awesome to talk to and giving pointers to look at, also the guy on moparts who bought the aluminum one on what he found, had to change and also gave the list to Kent who made some changes to the molds, so it's great to know Kent is listening to those who get his blocks. Hopefully more will buy them, once I can, I'm looking to make 1000hp + with mine, the casting is thick, they have great potential.

Of course Kent is going to listen and change them. The junk people paid for he knowlingly shipped out ....... word got out and people got smart enough to not buy any. He was forced to fix the junk he was initially selling, otherwise it sits.
I dont excuse him for that.
 
True but at least he is willing to listen unlike some companies out there that don't give a crap about what the consumer says or suggestions to make better.
 
i seriously thought of buying one about 1 year ago.... but new there wer issues ,,,, i decided to go bb... no turning back now
 
I forgot to mention and sorry for not mentioning it, on the Ritter block you have to drill the water passages to the heads you are using in the deck. It's not hard, I did it here at my house, just a little time consuming.
 
-
Back
Top