New build A833 18 spline with Gear Vendors OD.
- Thread starter cpearce
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That bell has been on my car since 2016, we dialed it then and I don't suspect it has changed.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
You’re going to love that aluminum flywheel. I’m running the aluminum Ram 2503 flywheel with a 900 Powergrip. The clutch engagement is a lot more touchy than my old Hays B/B but I’m getting used to it. I think we’re running similar engine combinations and I can tell you that the stroked W2 with aluminum flywheel will rev like a sewing machine. You’ll hit 7K rpm before you can blink. Lots of fun!
Today I test fit the transmission without clutch installed. The purpose for today's effort was to establish total installed length, in order to get a driveshaft ordered. I found the B body shifter mounting bosses (which I don't use or need), are interfering with the upper transmission cross member. I have removed the transmission and will proceed to grind these bosses down, I will verify this with Gear Vendors tomorrow before I proceed.
My 360 based W2 engine hit 8k in a blink with factory flywheel .
My new 408 W2 with only 246/250 duration not so fast even with a 20lb McCloud SFI steel flywheel .
I can understand that, a very good friend of mine ( who built my engine), has explained to me about an engines rate of acceleration, and how it relates to performance. This can't be accurately measured on a dyno, but becomes very evident at the track. Not surprising to hear your account of how a 3.58" stroke accelerates vs 4".
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I had to do the same.
Thanks AJ!
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I still have the Heavy rebalanced 340 flywheel on my 367, and I love it. With a 10.97 starter gear, she's a blip-it-and-go deal, and that heavy beast keeps it idling across/around the parking lot, at 550rpm= 4mph, with a 230cam . Some days down to 500@3.5, lol.
For me; how fast it revs is meaningless cuz at WOT, this 367 spins the tires to any speed limit in the province. What I mean is that with spinning tires, the Rs flash to 7000/7200, and just stay there until I lift, usually 65mph.
How long the engine takes to return to idle, is of no consequence to me; and not really a good thing if compression braking locks the back tires up, which is partly why the car wears 295s.
Many years ago, I had contemplated a lightweight Flywheel, but put it on the back-burner. Never been sorry about that decision.
I'll be waiting to see how you like it.
As for that front boss, I didn't need it anyway and was pretty sure the GV was gonna stay in my car forever, so I sliced it off and prettied it up a lil.
I used the rear mount, and also moved the entire shifter some 7 inches back between the buckets, and over to my thigh. I haven't missed a shift in the 20 years since.
For me; how fast it revs is meaningless cuz at WOT, this 367 spins the tires to any speed limit in the province. What I mean is that with spinning tires, the Rs flash to 7000/7200, and just stay there until I lift, usually 65mph.
How long the engine takes to return to idle, is of no consequence to me; and not really a good thing if compression braking locks the back tires up, which is partly why the car wears 295s.
Many years ago, I had contemplated a lightweight Flywheel, but put it on the back-burner. Never been sorry about that decision.
I'll be waiting to see how you like it.
As for that front boss, I didn't need it anyway and was pretty sure the GV was gonna stay in my car forever, so I sliced it off and prettied it up a lil.
I used the rear mount, and also moved the entire shifter some 7 inches back between the buckets, and over to my thigh. I haven't missed a shift in the 20 years since.
Didn't accomplish as much as I would have liked today, got the B body casting for the shifter mount ground down about 3/8". A quick call to GV this morning to make sure I didn't void my warranty or anything. They assured me it would be fine as the adapter is a very robust casting.
pomonamissel
Well-Known Member
bummer that gv tailstock for the od unit doesn't have the a body shifter mount on it and the extension bracket is required .
In my case, it might be a blessing actually, but in general terms I agree with you. I am likely going to install a Hurst Ramrod shifter, the bracket will provide me the freedom to locate the shifter exactly where I want, and reduce the need to cut the floor up. I am pretty certain I can make it fit through factory floor hole.
By far my favorite shifter. It’s inline but it’s not a Vertigate.
Hurst pooped the bed when they quit making that and started doing the vertigate.
So the new aluminum flywheel arrived, I will be away until Thurday evening for work, then I can begin to reassemble. For those interested, a Ram 1503 flywheel and clutch assembly weighs 51.9lbs, the 1503LW lightweight steel flywheel and clutch weighs 43.8lbs and the Ram 2503 aluminum flywheel and clutch weighs 36.0lbs. This should change the rate of acceleration, I would think.
Now I have to weigh my junk. The cast iron pressure ring in these covers adds some excess weight so that has to be taken into consideration.
Beautiful work! Thanks for sharing. How do you like it?
Huge delay in progress, but I am now back at it. After grinding the shifter boss off, I am still making contact to upper crossmember with the top side of the Gear Vendors adapter. Did anyone have to grind on the adapter housing itself, in area other than the boss?
The GV is touching in 2 places, where the upper side of adapter housing is touching under side of upper transmission crossmember, and the flange in the tunnel where the actual auxiliary unit bolts to adapter housing.
Question, since I am installing a new Dana 60 at same time, can I mount the Gear Vendors where it fits properly, then make all the adjustments for pinion angle by adjusting the axle in the perches, before welding them?
The GV is touching in 2 places, where the upper side of adapter housing is touching under side of upper transmission crossmember, and the flange in the tunnel where the actual auxiliary unit bolts to adapter housing.
Question, since I am installing a new Dana 60 at same time, can I mount the Gear Vendors where it fits properly, then make all the adjustments for pinion angle by adjusting the axle in the perches, before welding them?
weld rule 01.....do not weld ANYTHING (tacs only) until EVERYTHING is where you want it.
driveline angle tip......it is critical that the total degrees of the transmission / driveshaft angle is equal or matches the total degrees of the pinion / driveshaft angle. There are several good U-tube videos on it relating to vibration elimination.
driveline angle tip......it is critical that the total degrees of the transmission / driveshaft angle is equal or matches the total degrees of the pinion / driveshaft angle. There are several good U-tube videos on it relating to vibration elimination.
I am thinking of cutting the bottom of the crossmember from the mounting holes, then add some metal in and weld back together. My initial thought is to make the removable portion of the rear transmission crossmember 1/3-1/2" deeper than stock, allowing the tail to sit slightly lower. Although this amount may prove to be to much, I can shim the tail back up if needed.
I realize this will induce some angle to my clutch linkage and exhaust, I don't actually need to move it 1/2", just want to cut and weld once.
I have clearanced the floor slightly already, hesitant to keep moving upwards, would like to split the difference of needed clearance downward if possible.
Again, I plan to set pinion angle with diff prior to welding perches on.
Thoughts?
I realize this will induce some angle to my clutch linkage and exhaust, I don't actually need to move it 1/2", just want to cut and weld once.
I have clearanced the floor slightly already, hesitant to keep moving upwards, would like to split the difference of needed clearance downward if possible.
Again, I plan to set pinion angle with diff prior to welding perches on.
Thoughts?
gzig5
Well-Known Member
Is there room on the top side of that upper crossmember to notch it? Looks like a 1" to 1 1/2" piece of 90 degree angle notched into that upper member would give you the clearance you need? I thought I've seen that type of mod before but I may be mis-remembering. I'd rather make room in the floor pan and upper mount than have it hanging lower or at unfavorable angle. All that stuff is hidden or under the carpet.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I guess my tunnel was a lil deeper, or my BFH a lil heavier. lol.
Also, I was using a 73up polyurethane spool mount and x-member. I slotted the saddle, and I slotted the mounting holes just a lil.
My engine mounts are the 72down style, so I think my engine sits a lil lower than with the spool mounts.
I cannot remember trimming the GV anywhere, so I probably didn't
My 68 barracuda was born a /6 auto.
I had no trouble at all with the clutch linkage except, I had to tweak one leg of the Z-bar to clear the TTIs. At first, I used an old used Zoom BnB-clutch from the 70s that I had laying around. But that soon got swapped to a Center Force II. But the -II disc was too harsh for me, so it got swapped for a factory stock 340 organic, which marriage I very much liked ..... until it started to vibrate. On inspection, some of the damper-springs had vacated their broken pockets. This set the pattern time after time, lol. I started welding the weak areas before installing, but that only slowed it down.
I learned not to drop the hammer at 5000.
I learned to ease into it a lil.
The U-joints seem to be appreciating that too.
Also, I was using a 73up polyurethane spool mount and x-member. I slotted the saddle, and I slotted the mounting holes just a lil.
My engine mounts are the 72down style, so I think my engine sits a lil lower than with the spool mounts.
I cannot remember trimming the GV anywhere, so I probably didn't
My 68 barracuda was born a /6 auto.
I had no trouble at all with the clutch linkage except, I had to tweak one leg of the Z-bar to clear the TTIs. At first, I used an old used Zoom BnB-clutch from the 70s that I had laying around. But that soon got swapped to a Center Force II. But the -II disc was too harsh for me, so it got swapped for a factory stock 340 organic, which marriage I very much liked ..... until it started to vibrate. On inspection, some of the damper-springs had vacated their broken pockets. This set the pattern time after time, lol. I started welding the weak areas before installing, but that only slowed it down.
I learned not to drop the hammer at 5000.
I learned to ease into it a lil.
The U-joints seem to be appreciating that too.
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I build this transmission mount for the Gen III / 8HP70 8-speed trans. I allows mucho more room in the OEM crossmember area
Maybe it would have a use (without the 8HP mount) in a GV application....????
Maybe it would have a use (without the 8HP mount) in a GV application....????
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