new eddy intake is junk!

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younggun2.0

younggun2.0

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I had an M1 intake on my 383 when I first built it. sealed up just fine. swapped over to the performer rpm intake and it was sucking oil from the lifter valley. I then swapped heads to the trick flow's and the intake leaked with those heads also. after a bit of investigation i have come to the conclusion that the intake was milled incorrectly.







you can see in the last picture that the top of the crush bead is flat and on the bottom of the port the bead is virtually untouched.

I will also mention that the deck has never been cut on this block, the heads are not milled and i am using a standard .039 crushed thickness gasket.
 
Had that as well in the past.

Used the intake pan set from JEGS with the thin paper gaskets on either side and it cured that issue!
 
I use the felpro intake valley pan gasket with 2 paper facings on my 383, no leaks.
 
I hate to stir the pot, but if two different intakes leak on two different heads, it seems to me the most likely culprits are the decks.
Of course if both intakes were cut I suppose I could be just stirring.
 
fratzog lover said:
This is the new engine, right? Why didnt you keep the m-1?
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good question, I'm still running a street dominator. had problem sealing on the lower edge and used hylamar to seal it. recently switched to the pan and paper. no leak
 
Problems like this are not unusual. You have a block made by one company, heads by another, and an intake by another still. All part of building an engine, you have to make the parts fit together.
 
Doosterfy said:
Problems like this are not unusual. You have a block made by one company, heads by another, and an intake by another still. All part of building an engine, you have to make the parts fit together.
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This

I just bought a RPM as well for my new build that will be ported, and milled for the new build (0 deck 383)

I should add I am not going to run the thin valley pan, I bought the 440 source valley pan for a RPM intake so I only need to run 2 intake gaskets

Since it's temporary I'd double stack and silicone gaskets and run it til the new motor is done
 
AJ/FormS said:
I hate to stir the pot, but if two different intakes leak on two different heads, it seems to me the most likely culprits are the decks.
Of course if both intakes were cut I suppose I could be just stirring.
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You Mis read that. Old m1 sealed just fine. Then swapped intake to rpm, it leaked. Swapped heads, still leaked. I'm positive it's the intake. Spoke with two different builders and they concur.
 
younggun2.0 said:
You Mis read that. Old m1 sealed just fine. Then swapped intake to rpm, it leaked. Swapped heads, still leaked. I'm positive it's the intake. Spoke with two different builders and they concur.
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it probably is the intake. use the valley pan and paper when you get the new intake.
don't rely on just valley pan when sealing aluminum to aluminum. I used hylamar, until I came across the valley and paper combo.
 
Yep. Happened to my bracket car. Always smoked a little at the big end. Changed intakes and saw oil setting on top of all the closed intake valves but none on the exhaust. I glued the paper gaskets on both sides of the valley pan. Problem solved. Idled better too.
 
1967formulaS said:
I use a thin bead of hi temp silicon around the ports, as per the instructions and no paper gaskets. No leaks here either.
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I have read countless times that RTV should never be used around the intake ports on the heads or intake. I see your quote, look on the net and there it is in black and white to use RTV.


[ame]http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/300/312/312-P5153525.pdf[/ame]
 
I've had crappy luck with several Edelbrock manifolds not sealing on several different makes of engines. What I've learned, is to use Edelbrock gaskets, and they've sealed every time and never once leaked.
 
Fitting the intake on any engine is the builder's responsibility. The fitment should have been checked before it was bolted down. If you can see a gap on top or bottom, you address that prior to running it. I've had other makes' manifolds not fit either. **** happens. It's the builder's job to catch the **** and address it.
 
I've never liked or trusted the thin metal shim stock gaskets even when its all OEM cast iron parts.
 
Any machine shop can tell you if the intake is ok in about ten minutes. It would be worth your while to verify it.
 
moper said:
Fitting the intake on any engine is the builder's responsibility. The fitment should have been checked before it was bolted down. If you can see a gap on top or bottom, you address that prior to running it. I've had other makes' manifolds not fit either. **** happens. It's the builder's job to catch the **** and address it.
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Here it is guys, the man is correct.

Don't count on layers of gaskets to seal up a poor machine match. Lay the intake on the engine with no gaskets, use feeler gauges to check the manifold fit, and then have the intake machined to match.

Oh I know, I know, "Well I paid good money for this part and it damn well should fit!"

It doesn't and Edelbrock is bad about it. Most of the Edelbrock parts I receive need some type of corrective action and it's been like this for me since about 1975 when I bought my first 383 6-Pack manifold from them.

Send it back and you have a 50% chance the next one won't fit either.

Know it and deal with it. Test fit, look, measure, think and take corrective action.

Hundreds of years ago in Burma, a king was building Buddhist temples. He informed the workers there were to be no gaps in the stone blocks where they fit together. If there were, he cut their fingers off.

Pretend you are building a temple, you worship this car anyway, right?
 
IQ52 said:
Here it is guys, the man is correct.

Don't count on layers of gaskets to seal up a poor machine match. Lay the intake on the engine with no gaskets, use feeler gauges to check the manifold fit, and then have the intake machined to match.

Oh I know, I know, "Well I paid good money for this part and it damn well should fit!"

It doesn't and Edelbrock is bad about it. Most of the Edelbrock parts I receive need some type of corrective action and it's been like this for me since about 1975 when I bought my first 383 6-Pack manifold from them.

Send it back and you have a 50% chance the next one won't fit either.

Know it and deal with it. Test fit, look, measure, think and take corrective action.

Hundreds of years ago in Burma, a king was building Buddhist temples. He informed the workers there were to be no gaps in the stone blocks where they fit together. If there were, he cut their fingers off.

Pretend you are building a temple, you worship this car anyway, right?
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I agree 100% with this........ but....... I dry fitted the intake last night and with the intake sitting in place, no gaskets, all surfaces cleaned. the top of the intake port is sitting flush with the head. the bottom? I have .013 on the driver side and .015 on the passenger side all across the bottom. it varied maybe .001 but hard to tell reaching under the intake with feeler gauges. i shine the light into the plenum and i had a pretty ray of sunshine all the way across on both sides.

here is the kicker! the guy i sold my M1 to lives two blocks down the street. it was still sitting on his bench. I asked to borrow it for few min. lay it down....... LIKE A FLIPPIN' GLOVE!

I understand i have aftermarket parts mating with other aftermarket parts but i would bet the farm that the eddy intake is not milled to the factory spec.
 
Edelbrock could use some quality control improvements in their manufacturing process for sure. My RPM intake had the right front underside corner not filled in where it matched the back step in the block. They simply made the front china wall flat to match the front china wall on the block, minus the step back that all small blocks have on the right side and so the thing dribbled oil out the tiny opening between the intake and the block constantly. Gee, wonder why the factory intake had a machined mating surface at that very spot. So it wouldn't leak maybe? Called Edelbrock up and let them know about the flaw and the tech guy said they would correct it. Who knows if they ever did or not. Also had to have the sides machined to get it to stop sucking in from the bottom of the ports. Finally got it all straightened out.
 
You need to use a valley pan with a gasket under the valley pan and one on top. Get some good gaskets from Hughes engines.
 
Since the Eddy foundry in San Jacito is like 2 hours north of the border, perhaps these are being "Hecho en Mexico"?
Yeah I know they say "Made in USA" on them. But what is? The casting, the box, the little label?
 
69_340_GTS said:
Since the Eddy foundry in San Jacito is like 2 hours north of the border, perhaps these are being "Hecho en Mexico"?
Yeah I know they say "Made in USA" on them. But what is? The casting, the box, the little label?
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well when trump puts up the wall, no more intakes, lol
 
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