New Small Block Headers

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Rat Bastid said:
What’s the part number. If it doesn’t have slip on collectors it’s a STREET HEADER no matter how long you have owned them.

It could be (and it’s likely that I’m smarter than you) that you are posting misinformation.
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Hey ads wipe I already said the post was not to you. I never said they were not or was a street header.
They made 1 5/8 Comp and Super Comp 1 3/4.
Read what I said. I. Said I had Supers without slip. You said I did not and had Comp not Super.
So yes they made Super without a Slip OK.....
Go find a Mirror and Fight one of you will win.
 
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Bakerlite said:
That's the problem around here, people can disagree without comment. :rolleyes:
They can disagree because of a warranted technical issue, or they can disagree because they simply have some sort of lame personal issue..:realcrazy:
It's a bit of a joke.
Pitty the software doesn't support a mandatory comment if you use the disagree button.
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I got a red X the other day for telling a guy good job on the work he was doing on his car. Still haven’t figured that one out. :realcrazy:
 
They are stainless and most likely made for racers . 1100 vs 1800 is not a big jump for the guy that wants/needs them .
Still cant figure out how a post on headers turns into a F-You thread ?

I don't like pickles on my chicken sandwiches...
**** YOU ! I HOPE YOU GET HIT BY A TRUCK ! ...
 
For that kinda money, There better be a happy ending involved.
 
would they be beneficial to a stock 318 2bbl ??
 
mbaird said:
They are stainless and most likely made for racers . 1100 vs 1800 is not a big jump for the guy that wants/needs them .
Still cant figure out how a post on headers turns into a F-You thread ?

I don't like pickles on my chicken sandwiches...
**** YOU ! I HOPE YOU GET HIT BY A TRUCK ! ...
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Ok one no pickles.
But I have a whole shelf of homemade pickles.
 
For what’s it worth I’ll add my expertise lol
my 340 W2 engine had a set of 1-5/8”LA hacked up banged up cheap as hell headers. I ran high 9’s with the wrong headers. They worked.

since then I build a set of fender exit 1-3/4” stepped to 1-7/8” W2 headers. So far I’ve picked up 1 mph.
 
79410aspenrt said:
For what’s it worth I’ll add my expertise lol
my 340 W2 engine had a set of 1-5/8”LA hacked up banged up cheap as hell headers. I ran high 9’s with the wrong headers. They worked.

since then I build a set of fender exit 1-3/4” stepped to 1-7/8” W2 headers. So far I’ve picked up 1 mph.
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You're gonna have to show notorized time slips and actual video before some people are going to believe you.:rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
smokindust said:
Ok ladies and gentlemen My 72 duster is the car they designed the headers around. There built for 318 340 or 360 with STOCK cylinder heads and No power steering.. the car has a stock 4spd with a scatter shield so there is plenty of room for automatics. My 340 has 11.1 comp. fully ported j heads big hydrolic flat tappet cam strip dominator and a reworked 750 Holley. I had old 1 7/8 hooker race headers on it for A and E bodies that they discontinued along time ago. I will say this, these headers blow away all those other headers and I had them all! You can install and remove them with the engine in the car! That alone is worth it to me. They changed the whole tone of the engine the car has a lot more low end torque and it pulls harder going through the gears the merge collectors actually work I will post some pics within a few weeks when I have time off underneath the car from both sides.
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So, does the linkage go through them or not since that question has been brought up? Any pics of them installed showing the steering linkage or ground clearance?

justinp61 said:
I got a red X the other day for telling a guy good job on the work he was doing on his car. Still haven’t figured that one out. :realcrazy:
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I got the red X because I said they were too expensive and that is a 100% true statement for anything I would build with a small block. Hell, TTI's are too expensive IMO for my cars as I'm not running in any Pro or money class BS.

79410aspenrt said:
I do have time slips and video. Now the question is, are the time slips and videos real :popcorn:
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Deep fakes! :lol:
 
There are only 3 types of headers.
1.Off the shelf. Street, Comp, Hugger,whatever they are called.
2.Custom, low performance
3.Custom, high perfromance
 
79410aspenrt said:
For what’s it worth I’ll add my expertise lol
my 340 W2 engine had a set of 1-5/8”LA hacked up banged up cheap as hell headers. I ran high 9’s with the wrong headers. They worked.

since then I build a set of fender exit 1-3/4” stepped to 1-7/8” W2 headers. So far I’ve picked up 1 mph.
Click to expand...
Years ago a friend of mine spent a lot of time playing with headers on his car. He learnt quite a bit about it and shared it with me. As you have found, it can be quite interesting..
 
Rat Bastid said:
So you’ve tested that and you know that for a fact or are you talking out of your hat?
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For the most part, unless you have headers that have removable collector's so you can tune the headers, then yes a header is a header. Tube diameter, length, collector diameter and length all play a important part in the headers design. What size header tube and exhaust system do you think would scavenge the combustion chamber not only faster but more complete?
 
LOL, all this talk about collector length, when most people bolt an exhaust pipe of the same diameter up to the collector anyway.
 
I didn’t follow any length or collector size when I built my headers.
3 things I wanted,

#1 easy access to header bolts
#2 easy access to the spark plugs
#3 be able to take header off and on with engine in car.

I don’t have all the tubes the same length. I don’t have the primary tubes 28-30” in length. Are they optimized, who knows. Do I care, no. They are 1 mph faster then the crap header I had on so I’m happy.

way to many guys overthink everything, sometimes you just have to run with it.
 
smokindust said:
Ok ladies and gentlemen My 72 duster is the car they designed the headers around. There built for 318 340 or 360 with STOCK cylinder heads and No power steering.. the car has a stock 4spd with a scatter shield so there is plenty of room for automatics. My 340 has 11.1 comp. fully ported j heads big hydrolic flat tappet cam strip dominator and a reworked 750 Holley. I had old 1 7/8 hooker race headers on it for A and E bodies that they discontinued along time ago. I will say this, these headers blow away all those other headers and I had them all! You can install and remove them with the engine in the car! That alone is worth it to me. They changed the whole tone of the engine the car has a lot more low end torque and it pulls harder going through the gears the merge collectors actually work I will post some pics within a few weeks when I have time off underneath the car from both sides.
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Clear your inbox if you would. Thanks!
 
Bakerlite said:
There are only 3 types of headers.
1.Off the shelf. Street, Comp, Hugger,whatever they are called.
2.Custom, low performance
3.Custom, high perfromance
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I'll disagree somewhat (but spare the red X BS. LOL )
1. Off the shelf that generally fit what they claim to fit and are streetable.
2. Off the shelf that generally fit what they claim but hang low.
3. Junk (all those that waste your time trying to make them fit).
4. Custom (and yes some are going to be better for performance gains than others. So it goes)
(I've owned 2,3,4 and one 3 that someone bought and I hear was able to use as 1 in a different car possibly using a different headpipe)

Bakerlite said:
LOL, all this talk about collector length, when most people bolt an exhaust pipe of the same diameter up to the collector anyway.
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Yup. That's why its worth running the numbers through pipemax and following Larry's guidance when running a full exhaust. It's certainly possible to stuff up a system even with (especially with?) larger pipes. I've done it. Every disruption in flow can be controlled so a full exhaust doesn't have to ruin a header's potential. It's why the H pipe, X pipe arguement is pointless. When either is used, whether they are effective or detrimental is about sizing and placement and the rest of the system.
 
Dan the man said:
That's WAY to much for a set of headers, I don't care how good they look. They won't perform any better than a $700 set of headers which by the way is pretty much the price for good headers for a mopar
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A header that has equal length tubes, smooth bends ( not dented up ) and are the correct diameter, will flow the exhaust gases just as well as a 1,900 set. You don't need adjustable collector's on a cruiser and that's what I was talking about. For a mild built small block 1 1/2" primary tube headers with a ceramic coating is a good choice, the smaller diameter tube headers will scavenge the combustion chamber not only faster more complete and that keeps from contaminating the next air / fuel mixture.
 
Dan the man said:
A header that has equal length tubes, smooth bends ( not dented up ) and are the correct diameter, will flow the exhaust gases just as well as a 1,900 set. You don't need adjustable collector's on a cruiser and that's what I was talking about. For a mild built small block 1 1/2" primary tube headers with a ceramic coating is a good choice, the smaller diameter tube headers will scavenge the combustion chamber not only faster more complete and that keeps from contaminating the next air / fuel mixture.
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:rofl:
 
Mattax said:
You can guess all you want.
I'll let you scratch your head for while...
:lol:
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I think that you misunderstood what I'm saying, I'm talking about headers for a cruiser, every day driver. I've done a lot of research and talking to people and they all pretty much say the same thing that the smaller tube of are better for scavenging the cylinders and the ceramic coating keeps the heat in the combustion chamber. Have I been miss lead on this?
 
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