New steering coupler doesn't fit!

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LovetheA's

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So here's my situation. I just repainted my steering column and figured I'd rebuild and replace the coupler before reconnecting the steering. I ordered what I thought was an actual OEM replacement coupler because after looking on eBay it looks like many of the reproductions are of lesser quality. So I ordered one from Richard Ehrenberg and it looks just like my original except one major problem. I can't get it to slide onto the shaft that comes off of the steering box. The old one is all dented and hammered on but slides on and off but is snug. The new one looks right but after pushing and hammering on the steering column I can only get the coupler on not even half way. I marked on the shaft and the old coupler to properly align the old and new coupler but can't figure out how to get the new one on. Is it common for couplers to be a bear to get to fit? Are there variances in tolerances so one is snug and others too tight? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Carl
 
If you look at the splines on the box and the coupler you will see a gap where there is about 3 splines missing.These need to be lined up to fit together(box to coupler).
 
Pettybluedart

I'm pretty sure that I have the new coupler positioned the same as the old one. I transferred a mark to the new coupler just as it was marked on the old one so that their position are the same when trying to slide on. I noticed that on the old coupler and the new coupler there is a notch machined into the bottom on both couplers at the same spot. I looked at the inner threads on the bottom of the couplers and they don't look any different and also doesnt look like there is an area where some threads are missing. Are some couplers machined different? I'm at a loss?
 
The notch in the bottom edge of the coupler is so you can quickly locate the
skipped spline. Align this notch with the wide tooth on the steering box spline.
It only fits on in one position.
 
you my need to take a 3 corner file and clean up the spline . if someone hit if with a hammer or sumtin the swell very easy .
 
turn the steering gear to where the master spline in shaft is top center. Position coupling same ( notch at lower outer edge is reference ). If the coupling starts on part ways you have that much correct. There are voids in the splines where the cross pin goes so the coupling can easily get misaligned and hang up there. To simply begin hammering can create burs and do more harm than good. The marking used before are still there to see. Shake, wiggle, downward pressure, light pecking with hammer to start it on its way again. You may need to use a small file to remove some burs on the shaft and inside the coupling.
If the steering gear could withstand a lot of abuse at its input shaft, the coupling wouldn't have been needed. If it was in a place where one could get serious hammer blows to it...
 
I think I noticed something that seems strange to me. I have purchased two new couplers in the last several weeks. Both look the same dimension wise but have different threading associated with the notch machined into the bottom of the coupler. One has a blank spot right near where the notch is machined the other does not and has a continuous thread pattern inside the bottom. I also noticed that the old beat up one I took off also has a notch machined in it but a continuous thread pattern. So I'm thinking my steering shaft coming off of the steering box probably doesn't have a master spline marking point? Am I correct in assuming the only way to check this is to jack up the front of the car to get underneath and try to see the underside of the shaft? My manual steering box was rebuilt several years ago. Could they of replaced the shaft with one with no master spline marking point? Somewhat confused!

Carl
 
Every one I have taken apart ( my only reference ), I first center the steering so wheels point straight ahead. The notch in the coupling will be on top, the split pin is positioned to drive out, coupling comes off, goes back on, drive pin back in, done.
 
I want to thank everyone for chiming in on my steering coupler replacement. This website is always the best at helping. I have learned quite a bit from this fix just as I have from many other fixes working on my car. Here's the short of what I've figured out. I'm not sure If it was because my steering box was rebuilt and a new shaft put in or some chrysler manual steering boxes were manufactured different but my shaft has no master spline on it. I have added 3 pics. You can clearly see my first photo shows one replacement coupler I orderd no master spline at notch, second photo beat up coupler I pulled off car no master spline. Then the last photo shows a third coupler I bought that is leaning with a master spline. That last one obviously won't work. To be compatible with steering shaft have to use the first two. Problem as stated the new one is way to tight to slide on. I'll have to clean up the old coupler and reuse. What a pain in the ***. Any comments welcome. Has anyone else ran into this problem where the shaft coming out of their manual box has no master spline area?

Carl
 

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Sorry but this does not make sense. Picture an assembly line, "back in the day." Cars lined up for "miles". Assembled COLUMNS lined up for "miles."

Here's a box with no master. You think they stopped the line to "sub" (the proper color) column with that special "no master matching coupler?"

I bet "something else" is wrong. Like maybe it's full of age hardened debri? Hell I don't know.
 
Believe me it was quite confusing to me as well. What I do know is that some replacement couplers have the master spline while others do not. Also for whatever reason my manual steering box doesn't appear to have a master spline on it as well. I do know that the box was rebuilt. I'll have to look through my old receipts and see if I can find the company that did it and see if they changed the shaft in the box? I realized that if something is screwed up it usually happens to me.
 
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