Nitrous plumbing A1A...??..

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Just waited on the Zex tech line for a half hour and the guy came on and was hello hello? I said yes he said hello hello I said yes and he hung up... I've got to get to work! I'll try this afternoon.. just get another opinion now that I have things a little bit more set up..
 
j par said:
Just waited on the Zex tech line for a half hour and the guy came on and was hello hello? I said yes he said hello hello I said yes and he hung up... I've got to get to work! I'll try this afternoon.. just get another opinion now that I have things a little bit more set up..
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don't know if you've seen this>
Nitrous Oxide fuel Jet size and HP Calculator nos n2o

just some more info....jetting charts are bit outdated though....looks like .035n is about right for 100 shot...I was wrong I think (just concerned)
 
Hot Metal said:
don't know if you've seen this>
Nitrous Oxide fuel Jet size and HP Calculator nos n2o

just some more info....jetting charts are bit outdated though....looks like .035n is about right for 100 shot...I was wrong I think (just concerned)
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just more information to make my head spin LOL I'm going to try to call zex a little earlier tomorrow.. see if I can get some more information. I did these calculations and they seem to come out close to what I have. But then I looked at a chart below this and they were like you're saying more evenly matched jets to fuel and for nitrous..
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lol....
I pushed in some numbers and took some screenshots of the calculator and it seemed pretty close but I'm not sure about the ratio part and I put two nozzles as in to fogger plates so...
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The difference I think between the two is just one nozzle and two nozzles..
 
The first things that I've ever bought and had more questions than answers when I got them... First and foremost why didn't they put little screws in there so you can mount them? Why didn't they at least give a little piece of paper telling you what size the screews might be? Is there no negative or no positive wire? Just connect one to one and one to the other?? The inlet is in the back and the outlet is in the front? Pretty much forcing it to mount it backwards or sideways? Manufacturers I would think you would want there label to stick out? of course the picture on line shows in the side and out the other side..
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SSG_Karg said:
Would you mind saying how much you have invested in this project so far?
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Not at all.. I'm just a hair under $400 right now.. I'll be just under $300 to get a 10lb bottle brand new and its accompanying gauge, blow off valve, and such....
I still need to purchase a micro switch for the throttle. I already have plenty of wire and I may have to buy a couple 3 or $4 switches for activation and other things.
Most dual quad kits with a 10lb bottle complete are a over $800.. but complete is a little bit of a stretch because that doesn't come with a Purge kit and it doesn't come with all the accessories for the bottle as far as a gauge and a blow off valve. along with that you have to come up with the whole eight hundred and some-odd dollars all at once which I never seem to have a lot of money at once...
Also absolutely none of them at that price range come with the fuel management side of things.. just an inlet for where the fuel should come in LOL at a certain number of pounds...
also I should say you will come with whatever main feed line length that comes with the kit. Will it be long enough to get to your trunk if that's where you want to put it or will it be too long if you just want to put it in the backseat...
 
I called the zex techline and basically out of all the questions that I asked he was only able to confirm that there is no positive or negative to the solenoid...
It was very apparent that they have no working knowledge of nitrous except for helping people read the instructions for their kits... Could not talk about jet sizes whatsoever but only quote the part number of the kit and it's part number for it's Jets.. didn't know the screw size that goes in the bottom of their solenoid... I said I'll probably have to take it to the hardware store and figure out which ones fit and he agreed... again it was quite obvious this tech line is completely for people who can't read their instructions for their kits... Pretty much worthless...
 
Kits include screws and instructions. New individual solenoids are replacement parts, so I don't see a problem with it not including mounting screws. I am surprised the Summit listing did not specify. The screws are listed on Summit's website as ZEX part NS6522, with sizing as 10/32 thread. Double check it and get some locally.
The solenoid can be mounted in either direction, so inlet/outlet is where you want. If you are concerned with the label facing backwards, the large nut on top can usually be loosened and the outer cover with label turned where you want it. If memory serves, and knowing I have experience with NOS brand only, the solenoids are electrically nondirectional. Choose a wire for ground side and the other is activation power.
 
Bobzilla said:
Kits include screws and instructions. New individual solenoids are replacement parts, so I don't see a problem with it not including mounting screws. I am surprised the Summit listing did not specify. The screws are listed on Summit's website as ZEX part NS6522, with sizing as 10/32 thread. Double check it and get some locally.
The solenoid can be mounted in either direction, so inlet/outlet is where you want. If you are concerned with the label facing backwards, the large nut on top can usually be loosened and the outer cover with label turned where you want it. If memory serves, and knowing I have experience with NOS brand only, the solenoids are electrically nondirectional. Choose a wire for ground side and the other is activation power.
Click to expand...
Where've you been! LOL I need more advice!?...
 
The bars on the plates have 10 holes facing each direction horizontally there's two bars with 40 holes total. I hear some talk about jetting depends on what plate you have? In my simple mind I think well that bar is only going to get what jet I put in there will let it have? Jetting jetting jetting that is a lot of my questions right now.. so many different jet charts. Some are saying equal Jets nitrous and fuel and summer saying bigger jets for nitrous and just a bit smaller for fuel.. when teeing into two different plates do the jet sizes split in half or do you use a 50 shot size in each for a hundred shot or do you take the hundred shot size and split it in half?
 
By far the answers I get on this forum outweigh any technical support LOL if you want to call it that from calling a tech line...
 
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/NOS-0022NOS.pdf
a LOT of good info as if you haven't read enough already:(

chapter 6.1 and 7, jetting/timing etc. there jetting chart show square jetting, thats a bit outdated, you can go smaller on F jet for a cleaner tune, 3>6 sizes but the cleaner you go the less the timing is. Engine combo efficiency is also related to timing. I guess at the end of the day perhaps a short shot enough to read your AFR as someone suggested is a way, reading your plugs is important and in some ways the only true way. Its sounds all a bit trial and error as I doubt if anyone can give a definitive answer to exactly how you should run YOUR combo a lot is dependent on it as I said. Its all in the article. Personally I would run square or even a tad larger on the F jet just to start till you get some readings on AFR/plugs and go from there, that way you won't have to worry too much about timing retards and how much is enough, 2 deg should do with a rich tune.
 
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Personally I would not pass up a good deal on a used bottle that doesn't have scars or signs of heat damage. Nobody seems to look at the bottle's cert date and if the track's tech guy did, he would probably be one of those guys also looking for the cert on the bellhousing/flywheel/damper/etc. Then there's those extra bottles in the trailer that completely skip the whole inspection process....

On second thought if you are at risk of a DOT inspection, it might pay to have that current bottle cert :)

Grant
 
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Bottle cert is for the guy filling your bottle. Many places won't fill if it's past the cert time. I don't blame because it's for their safety.
Jetting is not as precise at this level as all research is leading you to believe. You will see how easy your plan is when you get it running. You can mix brands. I originally suggested not mixing brands ONLY so your first time playing with it would be easy. Don't sweat the differences in the charts. Just make a decision and go. Treat both plates as separate kits. Each plate will be jetted for 50 HP, so the total added to your engine is 100hp. That's because you have plenty of supply volume and pressure for that little amount of total kit volume.
If your plates have larger holes in the spray bars, as an example, it may not mix quite as well inside the intake, but at this level you won't notice it. You'd have to be way off on the lean side to cause damage, and that damage will be during long hard runs.
Some guys use nitrous injection only, no added fuel, at the top end of the track on bracket cars just to get a few horsepower to push the finish line. Just mentioning this so you know a quick burst to lean an engine doesn't even cause immediate damage.
 
Almost forgot; way rich does not cause immediate damage either. I have been in the staging lanes a long time on a cold evening during a track cleanup. Once I finally got to the line and launched, my car just nosed over and started losing rpm from being way too rich. My bottle pressure had dropped too low and the nitrous tune went way rich. You know right away when it's that far off.
 
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Bobzilla, Hot Metal, weedburner...
Thank you tremendously for your post and your help!!..
I just got off the phone with a 76 year old man named Mike thermos...
I got to tell ya finally getting someone on the phone that I can have a conversation with that had a true working knowledge of nitrous was awesome!.. not only let me know a couple points that I wasn't aware of but just some of the stories on working with Steve Johnson and other people like that... Two weeks ago he just completely bought out Edelbrocks entire inventory of nitrous equipment.. Edelbrock no longer deals in nitrous. he talked about Edelbrock passing away and some Germans or something that has bought or something I can't remember... He talked about the shot of nitrous on his Corvette and a few other things that were just great!.. Needless to say when I got off the phone I was in full realization that I talked to somebody who is definitely a nitrous pioneer... That was cool....
 
One of the points that Mike brought up was the bar orientation going through the plate.. blue being nitrous and red being fuel and I told him that both had blue fittings... He said just to make sure the bottom bar was fuel.. (something I never thought of)..
So first thing I want to do tomorrow is take the plates outside and blow carb cleaner in each port and determine which wire goes to which side?? I assume carb cleaner can't be too harsh as it would be the same as gas or anything else that's going to go by These bars 99% of the time?...
 
Going up to the hardware store to get some screws for the solenoids.. also I want to get the correct pipe liquid for sealing.. while I'm up there taking a few of my an fittings and seeing if I can't figure out some way to maybe do it and hard lines..
 
Bobzilla said:
Kits include screws and instructions. New individual solenoids are replacement parts, so I don't see a problem with it not including mounting screws. I am surprised the Summit listing did not specify. The screws are listed on Summit's website as ZEX part NS6522, with sizing as 10/32 thread. Double check it and get some locally.
The solenoid can be mounted in either direction, so inlet/outlet is where you want. If you are concerned with the label facing backwards, the large nut on top can usually be loosened and the outer cover with label turned where you want it. If memory serves, and knowing I have experience with NOS brand only, the solenoids are electrically nondirectional. Choose a wire for ground side and the other is activation power.
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I checked your part number with Summit and they were $1.99 each for the 10 x 32 and at the hardware store $0.23 each LOL... Of course that's with a screwdriver had instead of a allen wrench...
I actually got one with the Purge kit so I had something to reference..
I thought The Purge kit solenoid was the same nitrous solenoid but it's not it has 1/8 female fittings at both ends instead of quarter in and eighth out like the actual nitrous solenoid...
 
Well lesson learned..
The Speedmaster nitrous plates are absolute junk... I put some gloves and eye protection on and spread some carb cleaner in one side of 1 to find out which bar operated which. The first one sprayed fairly evenly and I was okay marked it flipped it over spread the other one and like I said the bar was a bit twisted so once I'd spread a little up words in one side spread a little.. very not impressed and as well as seem to be a little weaker as well.. possibly plugged?.
So I'm not happy and I go check the other one and it keeps backfiring at me question mark it will not go through it's clogged! I try the other side and it sprays I go back and try that shot again and all it does is spray back out of the nozzle! I bring it inside and let it dry and blow into it and it will not move are it's plugged!!
Looks like I'll have to order up some plates of a quality brand... One thing though it has the lines the little mounting brackets and the bottle holder bracket and some an fittings that go into the nitrous solenoid themselves so I'm headed back and forth whether I got my money's worth out of the other stuff alone...
 
Mind you I'm in no surprise that these Speedmaster plates are junk it's just I wish I would have checked them a little bit better as far as operation or they would have already been back and replaced what's something better..
 
MiradaMegaCab said:
View attachment 1715469185
NOS 15570: Nitrous Filter Fitting | JEGS
Speaking of clogged spray bars....
I’d run one of these on the nitrous solenoids inlet....
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that's why I was wondering about sending those kits back because they had a few things in them like those screened fittings for the nitrous side and such but all and all that stuff needs to go back. I have picked out a couple of those as I'm not sure that the new plates that I'll buy will have them... I'm looking at buying two 70011 plates. They're from Edelbrock and they do have the accompanying hoses and jets so I can send the Jets back as well..
 
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