No kickdown linkage?

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diymirage said:
You must have had better luck then I
I ran thier throttle cable for a while and quality failed me rather quickly
The stud that mounted to the carb stripped it's threads, the cable actually cut a groove in the ferrule it ran through and eventually the cable ended up fraying and breaking
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Mine is mounted on the same bracket as the throttle cable and making sure the cable pulls straight makes a big difference.
Every cable setup I have ever seen will cut into the ferrule's if it comes out off center.
 
TrailBeast said:
Every cable setup I have ever seen will cut into the ferrule's if it comes out off center.
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I wont argue against that
but I will argue that it shouldn't happen in a time span of less then 2000 miles
I took it as a sign they used a metal on the ferule that was too soft
(this was on the firewall side, where the cable enters the car and gets attached to the pedal...pretty straight shot)
 
diymirage said:
I wont argue against that
but I will argue that it shouldn't happen in a time span of less then 2000 miles
I took it as a sign they used a metal on the ferule that was too soft
(this was on the firewall side, where the cable enters the car and gets attached to the pedal...pretty straight shot)
Click to expand...

You are probably right, I have had mine on for a bit over a month with no sign of wear whatsoever but I lubed it really well with graphite powder also before it went on.


Shainesboostin said:
But can I run it with a column shifter, also, when running a manual valve body, what is done with the kickdown lever?
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You can run a manual valve body with a column shift, just not a reverse manual.
With the manual VB all of the TP linkage can go away. (just leave the lever off if the VB comes with the rod for it. (most don't as far as I know)
 
So with a manual VB, no kickdown lever is even needed? Also, can you guys make a recomendation on where to buy, I see them everywhere! Some told me the cheetah brand? Can I do this with them trans in the car?
 
I've put reverse pattern manual valve bodies in all my cars . Turbo Action Cheetah. Works awesome with column shift. Daily drivers. Would never go back to auto shift. Mine are non low band apply. A valve body that applies the low band is considered safer but is more costly. Do a search on LBA vs NLBA.
 
I swear by Lokar throttle and kickdown cables, you get what you pay for or someone will say I told ya so.
 
TrailBeast said:
You are probably right, I have had mine on for a bit over a month with no sign of wear whatsoever but I lubed it really well with graphite powder also before it went on.




You can run a manual valve body with a column shift, just not a reverse manual.
With the manual VB all of the TP linkage can go away. (just leave the lever off if the VB comes with the rod for it. (most don't as far as I know)
Click to expand...
Not sure why you think a RPMVB can't be used with a column shift. The PRN123 pattern is ideal for it .
 
Shainesboostin said:
So with a manual VB, no kickdown lever is even needed? Also, can you guys make a recomendation on where to buy, I see them everywhere! Some told me the cheetah brand? Can I do this with them trans in the car?
Click to expand...
Easy to do in car. Doesn't take much longer to do than a filter change. Get the car on jack stands with the rear wheels . You will have to rotate the driveshaft to disengage the parking pawl. Might be a good time to change your selector shaft seal while you have the vb out.
 
forphorty said:
Not sure why you think a RPMVB can't be used with a column shift. The PRN123 pattern is ideal for it .
Click to expand...
So mine column would read as follows

PRND21 but would function as
PRN12D

Looks like you.gotta do a low reverse servo upgrade as well. Pulling trans...yay
 
Shainesboostin said:
So mine column would read as follows

PRND21 but would function as
PRN12D

Looks like you.gotta do a low reverse servo upgrade as well. Pulling trans...yay
Click to expand...
I've never upgraded the servo and haven't had a problem in 20 years of running RPMVBs. Probably a good idea to upgrade though and not very expensive. The factory retainer is kinda wimpy I think. No need to pull trans to change it. http://www.turboaction.com/17156.pdf
 
Hey get the throttle cable away from the wires or tape the wires together in plug bundles, caused me a engine fire. I have a cable and it is way easier than doing a valve body.
 
forphorty said:
I've never upgraded the servo and haven't had a problem in 20 years of running RPMVBs. Probably a good idea to upgrade though and not very expensive. The factory retainer is kinda wimpy I think. No need to pull trans to change it. http://www.turboaction.com/17156.pdf
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Crazy. Everything I read said you had to pull trans apart to do this. I wonder why when buying a valve body they say it's required...
 
Sure seems easier to me to just get the proper factory KD linkage....maybe $50-$60, and be done with it!...install it and drive!!!

YMMV...
 
JMO, but I have a full manual transmission in one car, and it shifts very hard. Plus, trying to shift it with a column shifter, will probably have you over shifting into the next gear. I think you will want a ratchet shifter soon. My full manual transmission split the low reverse servo piston in half. I went with a billet replacement. My Dart is a column shift with the kick down hooked up. Has a shift kit too. I like it. It depends on how you like to drive.
 
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i have B&M Z gate and love it. I just popped out the pin and removed the column shifter and called it a day lol
 
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