No oil to top end

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i mean on a oil pressure gauge. you could confirm you have pressure when removing the oil pressure gauge and priming the pump, there should be oil coming off where the gauge was . again, be ready for a mess.
 
did you check for oil pressure on a gauge ? seems like you said there was pressure to the filter. if the oil pressure on the gauge is low, dont expect for oil to the rockers. so, how much have you got on a gauge while priming the pump or crancking the engine ?
 
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@wes beem I think maybe you just got a dud motor if you didn't get to hear it run in the vehicle it came from. I now believe you are right that it's stopped up somewhere between the filter and top end. Maybe you can find a Magnum motor you can hear run, swap it over to a carb and drop it in.
 
@wes beem I think maybe you just got a dud motor if you didn't get to hear it run in the vehicle it came from. I now believe you are right that it's stopped up somewhere between the filter and top end. Maybe you can find a Magnum motor you can hear run, swap it over to a carb and drop it in.
Pretty sure he said it ran good, but had low oil pressure so he changed the pump, is it possible a partial blockage was causing the low oil pressure and got kicked in to a full blockage by the new pump? Fwtw that's my guess
 
Update, we made a tool to spin the oil pump with a drill while 1 person turned the motor over, Still no oil. Repeated the process off and on for about 5 hours. Nothing. Not one drop.

We pulled the oil filter, turned pump over with a drill and oil was running out of the filter hole steadily while we did this, so i guess something between the filter and everything else isnt right.


Think im just gonna go buy a new motor as i need this vehicle as a daily to get me to and from work and we've spent 2 weeks chasing our tails on this and i've burned up all of my favors with friends for borrowing vehicles ext.

Maybe later this winter ill have time to tear it down to a block and see whats up but the time for that has passed for now. At a total loss, ive done three 360s in the past and never had a problem like this. Thanks for all of the suggestions and troubleshooting guys
And I asked back on page 2 if you had oil at the filter plate and you said no. Now are you beginning to see why we're frustrated?
 
we tried both ways during our trying to rule stuff out.
With the filter screwed on and the drill turning the primer do you have oil pressure on the gauge in the car? If yes, how much?
 
My brother had a 340 block that the passages from the camshaft to the top of the block got stopped up with sludge and wouldn't pump oil to the rocker shafts. We realized it when the rocker arms started squeaking and pulled the valve covers. He decided it was time for a rebuild and took it to a machine shop for the works.
 
Update, we made a tool to spin the oil pump with a drill while 1 person turned the motor over, Still no oil. Repeated the process off and on for about 5 hours. ...
You would think that the drill would burn out if there was any load on the pump. Did the drill load up? I would check for a plugged pickup tube screen.
 
I agree with the above statement ^^^^, sounds like a suction feed problem. If any or all of the oil passages on the pressure pump side were sludged up it would pull the drill down, hard. Screen pickup not clearence on oil pan, screen pickup or tube plugged, missing or loose pipe plug behind the filter plate, oil pump relief valve stuck open, oil pump not making full contact with rear main surface.
 
Fashioned a pump drive with an old intermediate shaft. You can even make it a one person priming job with an old distributor housing.

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In post 68 you mentioned that with the filter off you had oil coming out. Buy a new filter and try again. If you are lucky the filter is plugged or bad.
 
SOLVED SOLVED SOLVED

For ***** and giggles my friend rummaged through a scrap metal bin and found a 20+ year old used original one, installed it....truck instantly makes oil pressure and the chatter is gone.


TWO BRAND NEW PUMPS IN A ROW, DIFFERENT BRAND, DIFFERENT PRICE TIER WERE GARBAGE NEW IN BOX ON ARRIVAL.

200+$ worth of lost fluids and gaskets later.... I don't want to live on this planet anymore.
 
SOLVED SOLVED SOLVED

For ***** and giggles my friend rummaged through a scrap metal bin and found a 20+ year old used original one, installed it....truck instantly makes oil pressure and the chatter is gone.


TWO BRAND NEW PUMPS IN A ROW, DIFFERENT BRAND, DIFFERENT PRICE TIER WERE GARBAGE NEW IN BOX ON ARRIVAL.

200+$ worth of lost fluids and gaskets later.... I don't want to live on this planet anymore.
Thanks for reporting back.
 
SOLVED SOLVED SOLVED

For ***** and giggles my friend rummaged through a scrap metal bin and found a 20+ year old used original one, installed it....truck instantly makes oil pressure and the chatter is gone.


TWO BRAND NEW PUMPS IN A ROW, DIFFERENT BRAND, DIFFERENT PRICE TIER WERE GARBAGE NEW IN BOX ON ARRIVAL.

200+$ worth of lost fluids and gaskets later.... I don't want to live on this planet anymore.

It’s not worth doing now, but I’ve had some newer pumps hit the rear counterweight and it will hold the pump off the main cap.

I never found one that would turn over but the pump doesn’t have to be off the cap very far before you won’t get enough volume to make any pressure.

Its like when they machined the casting where it bolts to the cap too far.
 
Let us know what brands they were so we can be wary of their pumps. I got a TRW pump many years ago that was supposed to be a HV pump and I noticed when I stuck the oil pump drive in it to turn it before installing it that the shaft could move in and out about an eighth of an inch. I think they put a standard rotor in a HV pump. Glad I found that out before installing it because that means there was that much side clearance in the rotor inside the pump. I took it back and got another pump. I've checked them all like that before installing them from that point on.
 
SOLVED SOLVED SOLVED

For ***** and giggles my friend rummaged through a scrap metal bin and found a 20+ year old used original one, installed it....truck instantly makes oil pressure and the chatter is gone.


TWO BRAND NEW PUMPS IN A ROW, DIFFERENT BRAND, DIFFERENT PRICE TIER WERE GARBAGE NEW IN BOX ON ARRIVAL.

200+$ worth of lost fluids and gaskets later.... I don't want to live on this planet anymore.
Know what I think? I think you are full of crap Bye
 
Let us know what brands they were so we can be wary of their pumps. I got a TRW pump many years ago that was supposed to be a HV pump and I noticed when I stuck the oil pump drive in it to turn it before installing it that the shaft could move in and out about an eighth of an inch. I think they put a standard rotor in a HV pump. Glad I found that out before installing it because that means there was that much side clearance in the rotor inside the pump. I took it back and got another pump. I've checked them all like that before installing them from that point on.

I’m not 100% sure of the brand. They were brown box rock auto pumps.
 
The first pump was a no name cheap amazon one (not surprised it was bad) the second one was a melling.
 
If you have a spare pick-up tube, install it on the Melling, put the pick-up in a bucket of oil and spin the pump with your primer. Tell us if you get oil flow or not. I'm very curious!
 
If you have a spare pick-up tube, install it on the Melling, put the pick-up in a bucket of oil and spin the pump with your primer. Tell us if you get oil flow or not. I'm very curious!
thats the interesting part, we got flow off both of the brand new pumps in a bucket of oil which is why i thought there was no way they were bad. Apparently they just arent pushing Enough.
 
thats the interesting part, we got flow off both of the brand new pumps in a bucket of oil which is why i thought there was no way they were bad. Apparently they just arent pushing Enough.
Shooting out , or trickling out?
 
I don't have a picture of it, but years ago, I got a new SBM pump that was FULL of the machining metal filings. Always inspect your stuff.
 
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