No spark and i can only get 5V at the coil.

[YoungDart75]

"The brown wire i have goes from the ballast on the fire wall to the + on the coil" The confusion here is that the brown wire that you are looking at appears to be the wire from the low voltage side of the ballast to the coil +. The brown wire that everyone is thinking of is from the IGN2 position of the key switch to either of those 2 points (usually the low voltage side of the ballast) via the firewall connector.

I think you DO have the wiring diagram in the FSM. Follow that to see if you can ID that 3 prong connector; I suspect your wiring is all hacked and cross-connected so with us not there physically, it is going to take a lot of description on your part for anyone on this end to figure out what has been hacked or crossed.
From what I've seen in the manuals is those wires and connector would go to a different parking light/signal setup than i currently have seeing as mine has the fender mounted setup.

It would be very helpful to start posting more data with each report, under the same set of conditions. Keep the - lead of the meter at the - lead of the battery at all times so that is a constant reference point. Measurements from more points is needed to find if there is a significant voltage drop and how much. Just reading at one point is not enough.

If you can, please post the voltages at:
- battery + = 12.V
- input and output from ignition switch = 12.1V
- blue wire to ballast = 10.93V
- wire from ballast to coil + = 5.1-5.5V when connected, 10.9 when disconnected




BTW, did you ever run the spark test that I described over in the /6 section? That would have separated the coil and ballast from the ECU and distributor to help you narrow down the problem area. Haven't run it yet because Im trying to make sure I completely understand the process before attempting.

BTW#2: Does this car have an electric choke? I asks as that could be one of the extra blue wires spliced in. That will load the ignition switch and cause extra voltage drop in the IGN 1 (blue wire) circuit. I would sure like to know to what parts those extra blue wires go to. One is likely the voltage regulator: flat box on the firewall with 2 leads, one blue and one green. Another blue wire should go to the blue field wire on the alternator.
It does have a electronic choke control that is fed off the box above the valve cover(cant remember the name right now) See the white wire deaqd center of the picture below connecting to the box and then a blue wire feeding that box and the vacuum switch as well.


BTW#3 One more thing to check: Make sure the brown wire from ballast to coil + connects to the low resistance side of the ballast. There is a low resistance side (about .6 ohms cold) and a high resistance side (about 5 ohms cold). If your brown wire is connected to the high resistance side, then it will drop the coil+ voltage way too much. And besides, if you have the later ECU wiht 4 prongs, you don't need the high resistance half anyway. In that case, you can just convert to a single ballast with the correct cold resistance. Here is my current layout of the ballast resistor and its been like that since I've had it. But there seems to be some conflicting diagrams in the two manuals on the orientation of the wires.


Can you take a pix of the 3 boxes on the passenger side to which these blue wire go?




I am suspecting more an more that a PO spliced several +12v loads in the engine compartment to the IGN1 circuit and that is overloading the IGN (blue wire) position of the switch.

Also, this IGN1 (blue wire) lead in the 1975 models goes via a fuse to the instrument cluster inside the passenger compartment via a fuse. Not what it powers in the cluster, but find the single fuse with blue wires in and out and pull it and see if that helps your voltage out to the ballast.

Have you considered another engine compartment harness? There is so much hacking in the present one....Yes I have but ive already picked up most of the pieces for my 5.7L hemi swap. SO if this is too much more trouble I wont even mess with it any more.[/QUOTE]

I replied to your questions above in bold.

 

[YoungDart75]

Perhaps you can post those procedures?

I have 73 and earlier, and a 76. About all they "say" is to plug in special tester Chrysler part no blishy bloshy. (Actually it's C-4166-A or C-4166 and C-4166-1)

Here a some rough pictures of the procedures from the 75 manual on how to test it without using their special tester. Shoot me a message and ill get a lot better quality pictures for you.

 

[67Dart273]

I might take you up on that later. You don't have a scanner, do ya?

 

[YoungDart75]

You do know that if you are using a 1975 Factory Service Manual, as it appears you are, then it has procedures to test every single aspect of the ignition system. ECU, ballast, pick-up module in the distributor, ignition coil itself. All of it. That's what the techs originally used at the dealership.
Ive run through that entire section of the manual so far and run all the tests it says to run with the exception of the "testing ground circuit" because it says to check the number 5 pin on the ECU which I cannot due because there is no longer a 5th pin since they've all be swapped to the 4 pin design. Cavities number 1,2,3 on the ecu connector are all right at the 1volt tolerance level as it says in the book and the resistance between cavities 4 and 5 is 280 ohms, which is within the tolerances the book gives. I event went to the passenger side and disconnected the plug on the distributor and tested that way as well and still got 280 ohms. The last thing i have to do in the testing section is to remove the power cable from the coil to the distributor cap and hold 3/16" away from engine and turn it over to see if it has an arch( basically the same thing one of the previous member recommended I do).

Have you VERIFIED there is no spark at the plugs? That means remove one, lay it against a ground and then crank the engine over. You could have something as simple as a corroded terminal in the cap or a broken coil wire. I'm going to be retesting them since I've been making all the correction to the hack job wiring that was done by PO's.

Accel coils are junk. You can get the correct replacement ignition coil for about $19 in stock at pretty much any Autozone on the planet. Ignore the drama about the "ECU might have a ballast in it blah blah". Whether it does or not Mopar spec'd what ballast and what coil to use so put it back stock.
Ive tried starting the car with the original coil that came with the car when i bought it and the new accel coil with the exact same results so i don't see it being an issue with the coil.

I think i mentioned this in another thread you started but the ballast supplies two separate voltages at two separate times:

Cranking voltage which is supplied to the coil when the key is in START. That's full 12V to help the engine start faster. Even when running a jumper wire straight from the battery to the + coil terminal the car still wouldnt start.

Running voltage which is resisted down to about 6-7V at the coil. That's because the coil tends to overheat and fail at full voltage. That voltage is supplied when the key is in ON position.

That's why when the run side of the ballast fails, since it does all the work, the engine starts as long as the key is in START and sending that full 12v to the coil. When I measured the voltage from the terminal and used a screwdriver to jumper the starter relay there was no difference in the voltage at the coil + terminal, so it never switched to the 12V full power voltage that your referring to. Now that i think about it i may be wrong in doing so and actually need someone to turn the key while checking for the switchover in voltage because im not sure if it would actually send the 12v to the coil without the key being physically turned. I haven't dug that deep yet.

Here's a challenge:

Imagine it's 1979 and you are a newer line tech at FABO Chrysler-Plymouth, and you just had a 4yo '75 Dart come in with a no-start. It's assigned to you to repair. The customer needs their car back as soon as possible because it's their only car.

Every hour you spend working on that car not only charges the customer the hourly labor rate, but keeps you from taking on other jobs. Not only that, but the customer is on the hook for any replacement parts since that car is now out of warranty.

So, what do you do? Do you take guesses and try different parts, all of which are billed to the customer. Do you fart around wasting diagnostic time?

Or do you utilize the tools at hand, namely the proper electrical test equipment( a spark tester and an electrical meter) plus the FSM with it's detailed diagnostic instructions to quickly isolate the real problem, repair it and get the car back to the customer without excessive labor and part costs, which they would most certainly balk at paying?
Being a divorced single father with custody of my two kids, I don't have tons of money just laying around, and I don't like throwing money at things in hopes that I eventually replace the right part. If I did I would have bought an entirely new electrical system or paid someone else to do it instead of digging through the diagrams and trying to trace things down myself. If I didn't have spinal surgery 3 weeks ago trust me this would have been fixed long ago. I do as much as my recovering neck can handle at a time before I'm forced back in the house.

I answered your questions above in bold print.

 

[YoungDart75]

I might take you up on that later. You don't have a scanner, do ya?

I don't but these were just quick shots with my cell phone on my couch with only one light on in the living/dining room. Ill get better ones for you tomorrow and edit the post with better quality ones. I might even take the step and match it up with each figure and do it that way so you don't have to look back and forth to see which circuit its telling you to check if the measurements to match.

 

[nm9stheham]

Thanks for the data. The 12v in and out of the ignition switch is good the 10.9 vo at the ballas tin put is a bit on the low side; the issues dropping this are likely the connectors at the firewall or out of the switch. A good cleaning if the contacts is in order.

The 3 module pix are: #2 is the charging systems voltage regulator. #1 and #3: I don't know! I don't have those on any diagrams. Can you give us the PN off of those, or any info as to where the non-blue wires from their connectors go? Those certainly are odd and I have to wonder how much current they are pulling and no helping the voltage to the ignition. But the car ran before right?

Test the ballast with your ohmmeter to see which side is the 0.6 ohm side and make sure that is the side that the coil current passes through. You'l also have a test of the resistance values to make sure it is right. Your harness looks to have the orientation tabs intact on the ballast connectors so it is probably OK, but just check anyway to be sure.

Once the hacks are fixed as well as you can (and I wish I had some good suggestions there), you're at the point to start running some tests for spark as suggested. Get some more data points.

 

[TylerW]

Yes, looks like you are getting there. The spark test starting at the plugs and working back through the distributor is vital. The pickup coil in the distributor CAN fail. Not as often as the ECU on the fender but does happen.

I have a scanner so I think between the two of us we can get the testing procedures posted easily.

 

[YoungDart75]

Thanks for the data. The 12v in and out of the ignition switch is good the 10.9 vo at the ballas tin put is a bit on the low side; the issues dropping this are likely the connectors at the firewall or out of the switch. A good cleaning if the contacts is in order.

The 3 module pix are: #2 is the charging systems voltage regulator. #1 and #3: I don't know! I don't have those on any diagrams. Can you give us the PN off of those, or any info as to where the non-blue wires from their connectors go? Those certainly are odd and I have to wonder how much current they are pulling and no helping the voltage to the ignition. But the car ran before right?

Test the ballast with your ohmmeter to see which side is the 0.6 ohm side and make sure that is the side that the coil current passes through. You'l also have a test of the resistance values to make sure it is right. Your harness looks to have the orientation tabs intact on the ballast connectors so it is probably OK, but just check anyway to be sure.

Once the hacks are fixed as well as you can (and I wish I had some good suggestions there), you're at the point to start running some tests for spark as suggested. Get some more data points.

By the diagrams it says #1 is the Exhaust Gas Recirculator Vacuum Switch and #3 is the Electronic Speed Switch.

Running through the tests in the pub it mentioned testing those cavities with a batter that has at least 12volts. I have it at 12v before the ignition is on, as soon as I turn the key to the on position and it drops to 11.7volts and cavities 1,2,3 measure 10.8volts so it's right at .2 volts away from being out of tolerance.

I measured the resistance and across the top two pins and it has 5.6ohms and the bottom has 1.5 ohms resistance. Bottom seems a little high considering it is only supposed to have .5 ohms.

After my sons next soccer game ill be doing the test on the coil wire to check for arching and ill post more results then.

 

[67Dart273]

On a side, one of the exchanges above:

Tyler says

That's why when the run side of the ballast fails, since it does all the work, the engine starts as long as the key is in START and sending that full 12v to the coil.

And the OP answers

When I measured the voltage from the terminal and used a screwdriver to jumper the starter relay there was no difference in the voltage at the coil + terminal, so it never switched to the 12V full power voltage that your referring to. Now that i think about it i may be wrong in doing so and actually need someone to turn the key while checking for the switchover in voltage because im not sure if it would actually send the 12v to the coil without the key being physically turned. I haven't dug that deep yet.


If I understand what you did, there, you have to understand something very important about these cars. Jumpering the starter relay is NEVER going to get the 12V bypass to the coil +, because this happens in the ignition switch. Only time this happens is holding the switch to start.

 

[nm9stheham]

By the diagrams it says #1 is the Exhaust Gas Recirculator Vacuum Switch and #3 is the Electronic Speed Switch.

Running through the tests in the pub it mentioned testing those cavities with a batter that has at least 12volts. I have it at 12v before the ignition is on, as soon as I turn the key to the on position and it drops to 11.7volts and cavities 1,2,3 measure 10.8volts so it's right at .2 volts away from being out of tolerance.

I measured the resistance and across the top two pins and it has 5.6ohms and the bottom has 1.5 ohms resistance. Bottom seems a little high considering it is only supposed to have .5 ohms.

When you measure low resistance first put the ohmmeter leads directly together and note what the leads alone measure, then subtract that from the resistance reading of the low resistance part.

BTW, a 1.5 ohm ballast resistance won't keep it from starting and running but it will make the spark weaker. If you get the chance, chekc resistance of the coil from coil + to coil -; it ought to be around 1.5 ohms for this application. (Use the same technique of subtracting the meter's lead resistance.)

Is the brown wire from the ballast to the coil + coming off of the low resistance side of the ballast?

 

[YoungDart75]

On a side, one of the exchanges above:

Tyler says

That's why when the run side of the ballast fails, since it does all the work, the engine starts as long as the key is in START and sending that full 12v to the coil.

And the OP answers

When I measured the voltage from the terminal and used a screwdriver to jumper the starter relay there was no difference in the voltage at the coil + terminal, so it never switched to the 12V full power voltage that your referring to. Now that i think about it i may be wrong in doing so and actually need someone to turn the key while checking for the switchover in voltage because im not sure if it would actually send the 12v to the coil without the key being physically turned. I haven't dug that deep yet.


If I understand what you did, there, you have to understand something very important about these cars. Jumpering the starter relay is NEVER going to get the 12V bypass to the coil +, because this happens in the ignition switch. Only time this happens is holding the switch to start.

That's why I said I could be wrong about it not showing up seeing as the switch itself wasn't in the correct position. So ill check it again with someone actually turning the switch itself.

When you measure low resistance first put the ohmmeter leads directly together and note what the leads alone measure, then subtract that from the resistance reading of the low resistance part.

BTW, a 1.5 ohm ballast resistance won't keep it from starting and running but it will make the spark weaker.

Is the brown wire from the ballast to the coil + coming off of the low resistance side of the ballast?

The brown wire is connected to the bottom right which is the low resistance side of the ballast. Also my meter only showed .1ohms resistance prior to testing the ballast so it would only be 5.5 on top and 1.4 on bottom.



Update: So when measuring the voltage at the + terminal on the coil I had the usual 5.6 volts with the key in the "on" position like before. I had my son turn the key and try to start the car and it only switched over to 8.7volts while trying to start the car.

When testing the arching of the coil by holding the ignitions coil wire next to the blow how frequently should it be arching while turning the key? Arching did happen but it wasn't constant it was one are then a pause for about 2-3 seconds then another arch.

 

[67Dart273]

Very first thing I'd do is trace the brown wire from ignition switch, start to finish.

Could be a bad ignition switch

Could be a bad connection AT the switch connector

Could be a bad connection at the bulkhead connector

As hacked up as that wiring is, someone may have done something "amiss."

 

[YoungDart75]

Very first thing I'd do is trace the brown wire from ignition switch, start to finish.

Could be a bad ignition switch

Could be a bad connection AT the switch connector

Could be a bad connection at the bulkhead connector

As hacked up as that wiring is, someone may have done something "amiss."

I just put a brand new ignition switch in the car last week, wired up exactly the same as the last one. The blue wire from the ignition switch shows 10.9V coming out of the ignition switch at the connector under the dash by the steering column , firewall connector and at the ballast. The brown wire shows 5.6V at the connector under the dash by the steering column, firewall connector and at the ballast as well.

 

[nm9stheham]

I just put a brand new ignition switch in the car last week, wired up exactly the same as the last one. The blue wire from the ignition switch shows 10.9V coming out of the ignition switch at the connector under the dash by the steering column , firewall connector and at the ballast. The brown wire shows 5.6V at the connector under the dash by the steering column, firewall connector and at the ballast as well.

With the key in the RUN position, the brown wire will show the coil+ voltage back up through the firewall and to the ignition switch; this is because that brown wire is not connected to anything by the ignition switch in RUN and the coil - voltage backfeeds back to the switch terminal.

But your reading of only 8.7 volts on the brown wire and at the coil + is a possible sign of an issue. It should be close to battery voltage which will drop some when cranking but normally not that much.

1. Turn the key to START and record voltages at battery +, and the 12v input to the ignition switch (should be a red wire) to see how much the battery voltage and the wiring from the battery to the ignition switch are dropping.

2. Please do the test that I asked a couple of days ago so we can move forward some and start sorting out what is good and bad. Place the spark wire from the coil 1/4" from metal and remove the wire from coil -, then put the key in RUN, and then use a jumper or screwdriver to ground and unground coil - . See if you get a spark each time you do this. Don't be holding the jumper or screwdriver blade when you do this or you will get zapped. This will tell us more of what is good or bad in the system.

3. Test the coil resistance please. Do this with the coil - wire disconnected.

BTW, the irregular arcing is not normal and is the symptom of not running.

 

[67Dart273]

The brown wire shows 5.6V at the connector under the dash by the steering column, firewall connector and at the ballast as well.

You MUST measure that in "start" and you MUST check both the switch side and the vehicular side of the connector

With the key in "start" that brown terminal should be "same as battery" IE whatever the battery is while cranking, and for good starting should be more than 10.5V

"New" does not mean "functional." There are plenty of "new" defective parts, and in modern chinesio times, "it's gotten worse."

HOWEVER if you have tried to start the car using a jumper to the coil + then you have other issues, OR you have BOTH issues............something wrong in the ignition, and something wrong with the "brown."

I told you this earlier. You should be able to "imagine" the small amount of harness that "is" the ignition system and get that going separately. With the coil wired hot get the ignition going FIRST.

When one of use asks you for some reading, it's important to BOTH of us that the reading is taken exactly under specified conditions. EG, if you happen to be taking the above measurement in "run," it is meaningless on the "brown."

Don't lose sight of the basics. The ECU MUST be grounded. Don't just look at it, test it. What are the coil NEG readings with power applied? This TELLS you if the coil is drawing current. What is the ECU case reading "to ground." If there is any voltage there at all it is NOT grounded

Don't discount bad connections in ANY of the connectors. You have to PROVE they are good, not just "assume."

 

[YoungDart75]

Ill be getting some more measurements tonight. For the position the key is in from what I saw, one click is accessories, then the next is run and the the final position to start the car is "start".

I know new doesnt necessarily mean good. Luckily of this switch is bad too then i got it from advance and can returm it if defective. One thing that is off though is the readings ive been getting are very similar with both the old and the new ignition switch.

Ill test the coil resistance tonight as well as try to do the test you asked about nm9. At first i think i got the verbage mixed up but with this post you said it a little differently and cleared it up.

For the ecu's case resistance reading, basically put one prong on the number 4 cavity or the actual case itself and then the other to ground?

Also i will get all those reading in the "start" position as well and repost the outcome.

 

[67Dart273]

For the ecu's case resistance reading, basically put one prong on the number 4 cavity or the actual case itself and then the other to ground?

.

I'm not asking for resistance, although in effect that is what you are checking

Do the following.

Get power to coil +

Double check that you have 12V direct on the coil +

Now measure coil NEG to ground. You should have low voltage, the lower the better, perhaps 1 or 2 volts. WHAT THIS SHOWS is that current is going through the coil, and that the ECU is "pulling' it to ground......which it should be.

Change nothing except the meter. Put one probe "stab" into the ECU case, and the other probe into the firewall. You should read VERY little voltage, if any. Zero would be perfect

EXAMPLE. Let's say the coil NEG voltage is quite high, 5V--8V even higher. This shows the coil is NOT drawing current

And next you measure the case of the ECU to ground. If the voltages is very low or zero, this means the ECU is probably BAD, because the case is not "above ground" and yet the coil is not pulled low

Another problem indicated by a high coil NEG reading is the connection from coil NEG to the box. This could be a broken coil NEG wire right in the ECU connector, or a corroded / loose terminal in there

BUT if the ECU case reading is ALSO 5V or higher, this means the ECU case is not grounded

Read this through carefully. What you are doing is "testing in place" trying to disturb as little as possible so you can actually find the problem.

WHY? EG: In the book they have you pull the ECU connector off and take some measurements. This is almost meaningless, BECAUSE these measurements are NOT under any sort of load, and because just the movement of pulling the connector off may "disturb" a bad connection so that "you can't find it."

 

[YoungDart75]

Well after this im going to be trickle charging the battery tonight and then having it load tested tomorrow first thing.
All the below voltages were taken while turning the motor over attempting to start it. This was immediately after the battery read 12.1V with key off and not under load.
Battery power = 8.4V
Power to coil + = 7.2V
Power from negative coil to ground = 1.8V
Power to ignition(red wire) = 8.4V
Power from ignition(brown wire) = 7.7v
Ecu case voltage(case to ground)= 1.5 millivolts

The reason im load testing the battery tomorrow is because the damn thing isnt sending enough damn power through the systemin the first place during the starting process. So i cant expect any of my other readings to be proper without getting what they need. This would also explain why the 12v jumper wire to the coil didnt work either, because it was never 12v. Will update again tomorrow morning. Also nm9 ill check ur test after i find out about this battery. Thanks for all the help so far guys. Greatly appreciate it.

 

[67Dart273]

If it cranks over good, monitor the coil+ while it is cranking. I said this earlier. If you have bare min of 10V, better 10.5 or better, it should be enough. you don't need to load test it, unless it won't "make that." Charge it up and see what you have.

Sometimes I assume too much. It's tough to troubleshoot from afar, and think of every detail

 

[YoungDart75]

Thats my first move in the morning after a good long charge. But it has yet to jave more than 7-8 volts. Trust me I know how it is troubleshooting from afar, especially when it comes to 16 million dollar gun weapon systems. Perks of being in the navy and good at your job.

 

[nm9stheham]

Well after this im going to be trickle charging the battery tonight and then having it load tested tomorrow first thing.
All the below voltages were taken while turning the motor over attempting to start it. This was immediately after the battery read 12.1V with key off and not under load.
Battery power = 8.4V
Power to coil + = 7.2V
Power from negative coil to ground = 1.8V
Power to ignition(red wire) = 8.4V
Power from ignition(brown wire) = 7.7v
Ecu case voltage(case to ground)= 1.5 millivolts

Good deal; that is one reason you were asked to check the voltages all through the circuit; it was not clear if the battery was holding up a good charge. The good news is that it looks like the brown wire is carrying a 'decent' level of voltage through it; there is 1.2v difference from battery to coil + in START; the voltage drop ought to be less than that but is not a complete disaster. If the battery holds up to a charge and load test, THEN see if it will crank and fire and run the other checks.

It still looks that you have some voltage drops between the ignition switch and the ignition system. Probably in the connections but possibly the wires are going bad (internal corrosion) or there is another hidden splice in there. Feel along the wires and see if you find any soft spots or unusually hard spots or other irregularities.

One good indication from your complete voltage tests is that it looks like full battery voltage is reaching the ignitions switch. That says that your wiring and connections via the start relay and through the fusible link and on to the ignitions looks to be good. That is a plus and another reason to take complete readings.

 

[YoungDart75]

If it cranks over good, monitor the coil+ while it is cranking. I said this earlier. If you have bare min of 10V, better 10.5 or better, it should be enough. you don't need to load test it, unless it won't "make that." Charge it up and see what you have.

Sometimes I assume too much. It's tough to troubleshoot from afar, and think of every detail

I put it on the trickle charger last night then took it to advance to do the half hour charge this morning. It tested good at 12.5v but only 523 out of 600 cca's. Gonna take a nap then mess with it some more.

 

[TylerW]

Here's the deal though, man....

You already said you put 12v directly to the coil and it wouldn't run. If that's the case, then it's ok to be obsessing about the voltage drops and such if you wish, but in my experience these cars will lose voltage through the wiring. My Valiant does it...my Dart does it.

The stock coil will work at about 6V. It SHOULD have whatever full voltage is available when starting but I'm confident at 8-10V the ignition system will function.

Here's my suggestions to hopefully move this forward and get a resolution, and I don't mean this rudely:

1. Stop obsessing about the EGR timer, speed sensor etc. That stuff is just there. It has zilch to do with your problem.

2. Please perform the test that people are recommending. Hook the battery up, get a helper to turn the key while you pull off a plug wire and hold it next to the block where there's a good ground. It's either going to spark/zap you or you get nothing.

In relation to that, it's not as scientific as you are making it out to be. It's either A. you get something, B. you get nothing. You don;t have to do the "how wide should a spark be, what color, what duration, what angle etc.". Just.check.for.a.spark.holding.the.end.of.the.plug.or.wire.with.a.screwdriver.stuck.into.it.next.to.the.block.

I said through the distributor and cap as well. The coil test is fine too but AT THE SPARKPLUG.

The reason for this is it would be mighty embarrassing to go through all this to find out yes you DO have spark at the plugs and it was a fuel problem all this time.

3. Any test you do requires the key to be turned to START inside the car by hand. The jumping the relay just spins the engine and if I said to do that earlier then I should have known better.

4. Have you had the distributor cap off to see if the rotor is broken? If it spins when the engine spins? It is IMPORTANT THAT YOU UNDERSTAND WHY YOU MUST VERIFY THESE THINGS before you OCD about wiring.

Please post back your results of THESE tests. Meaning the answer to yes or no you have spark at the plug. Yes or not the rotor button is ok and not scorched to death. Yes or no the rotor button turns when the engine spins.

 

[TylerW]

I put it on the trickle charger last night then took it to advance to do the half hour charge this morning. It tested good at 12.5v but only 523 out of 600 cca's. Gonna take a nap then mess with it some more.

If it spins the engine over fairly normally it has enough juice to make it run. Period. One of those cars will start with the battery nearly dead.

 

[YoungDart75]

Here's the deal though, man....

You already said you put 12v directly to the coil and it wouldn't run. If that's the case, then it's ok to be obsessing about the voltage drops and such if you wish, but in my experience these cars will lose voltage through the wiring. My Valiant does it...my Dart does it.
that was with us assuming that the battery was staying at 12volts while cranking, but it infact wasnt.
The stock coil will work at about 6V. It SHOULD have whatever full voltage is available when starting but I'm confident at 8-10V the ignition system will function.

Here's my suggestions to hopefully move this forward and get a resolution, and I don't mean this rudely:

1. Stop obsessing about the EGR timer, speed sensor etc. That stuff is just there. It has zilch to do with your problem.
those pics were posted because someone had asked doe them to see where the other blue wires went.
2. Please perform the test that people are recommending. Hook the battery up, get a helper to turn the key while you pull off a plug wire and hold it next to the block where there's a good ground. It's either going to spark/zap you or you get nothing.
in progress
In relation to that, it's not as scientific as you are making it out to be. It's either A. you get something, B. you get nothing. You don;t have to do the "how wide should a spark be, what color, what duration, what angle etc.". Just.check.for.a.spark.holding.the.end.of.the.plug.or.wire.with.a.screwdriver.stuck.into.it.next.to.the.block.

I said through the distributor and cap as well. The coil test is fine too but AT THE SPARKPLUG.

The reason for this is it would be mighty embarrassing to go through all this to find out yes you DO have spark at the plugs and it was a fuel problem all this time. I've had quite a few issues with this holley and rebuilt it with a new brass float seeing as i was having issues with the old one getting stuck. Yes the car ran perfectly fine after the carb was rebuilt. That being said once im done with the spark plug wire test i will moat likely be pull the top up a little to see if it is stuck again. But I have the see through fuel filter which is completely full and if i move the valve I can see fuel squirt inside like its supposed to. I separated the fuel line from the carb and when I spin the motor over fuel is coming out of the feed line to the carb as well.

3. Any test you do requires the key to be turned to START inside the car by hand. The jumping the relay just spins the engine and if I said to do that earlier then I should have known better. this i caught myself and realised the proper voltage wouldnt be applied.

4. Have you had the distributor cap off to see if the rotor is broken? If it spins when the engine spins? It is IMPORTANT THAT YOU UNDERSTAND WHY YOU MUST VERIFY THESE THINGS before you OCD about wiring. Ive had the cap off and inspected it and the rotor. The rotor spins with the motor. Ive even removed The distributor to inspect it, reset the motor at TDC and reinstalled the distributor with the rotor just under the number 1cylinder tower like it says in the book.

Please post back your results of THESE tests. Meaning the answer to yes or no you have spark at the plug. Yes or not the rotor button is ok and not scorched to death. Yes or no the rotor button turns when the engine spins.

Answers are above in bold for what I've done so far. Its a little hot and miserable today so Im shutting down troubleshooting for today. Tomorrow I plan on doing the spark test you suggested as well as pulling the carb and checking the floats again.