SwingerSteve
Well-Known Member
Thanks a lot for your help,, very appreciated from all of you guys.
No spark but 1 spark on "shutdown"
- Thread starter SwingerSteve
- Start date
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SwingerSteve
Well-Known Member
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
Reversed power to module will fail it for sure. When it failed, most often shorted so coil powered when ignition on. Spark will happen when ignition off. Coil may survive if not powered for long, but more than a minute or two the internal winding insulation will be burned. Working modules limit current, failed modules do not, so current is about 20A.
PROCOMP RED Ready-To-Run/Small HEI Replacement Distributor module PC1063 8021 FF
replacement module if needed..
replacement module if needed..
SwingerSteve
Well-Known Member
That module spec says for Ford or Chevy in the ad.. heres a pic of mine,, module or dizzy has NO numbers or writing on it.. And the
SwingerSteve
Well-Known Member
Watch it spin and you'll get dizzy... Lol
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Does the reluctor spin during cranking?
Hey, I know it's a dumb question, but the one-spark on shut-down pretty much proves the entire system is alive, and the coil is fine.
If it was a factory system, I would have stopped looking for gremlins a long time ago, and went straight to "is the reluctor spinning"? and/or is the pick-up transmitting a signal to the module?
And as always; is the rotor under and close to a tower at the correct time?
Hey, I know it's a dumb question, but the one-spark on shut-down pretty much proves the entire system is alive, and the coil is fine.
If it was a factory system, I would have stopped looking for gremlins a long time ago, and went straight to "is the reluctor spinning"? and/or is the pick-up transmitting a signal to the module?
And as always; is the rotor under and close to a tower at the correct time?
Dave999
Well-Known Member
new module
https://www.jegs.com/i/Speedmaster/...zonX8y0F00FhKUN90xFxl4LdTHr-BmT_85HJXUeCUb85Z
I think its a PCE383.1003 HEI module
suggest you have a module or ignition switch issue.
OR you have your coil powered from a wire that has no power in the ignition key start position but has power in the run position.
in all cases of awkward module to source
its easier in the long run to convert to a standard 4 pin HEI
or 5 pin if you need that facility...basically the extra pin can be connected via a switch to + 12 volt switch on, take 10* out of timing, switch off timing is standard Poor mans traction control or easy start with a locked out distributor
4 pin is easier
Dave
https://www.jegs.com/i/Speedmaster/...zonX8y0F00FhKUN90xFxl4LdTHr-BmT_85HJXUeCUb85Z
I think its a PCE383.1003 HEI module
suggest you have a module or ignition switch issue.
OR you have your coil powered from a wire that has no power in the ignition key start position but has power in the run position.
in all cases of awkward module to source
its easier in the long run to convert to a standard 4 pin HEI
or 5 pin if you need that facility...basically the extra pin can be connected via a switch to + 12 volt switch on, take 10* out of timing, switch off timing is standard Poor mans traction control or easy start with a locked out distributor
4 pin is easier
Dave
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So i ended up returning the cars ignition systemback to the stock on from 71( motor came from a barracuda, im swapping 383 into a valiant 69’- anywho, new voltage regulator, new ignition module, new coil, new points dustributor that was a known good distributor with fresh piints and condenser, new diaphragm for the vacuum advance etc… went through all the wiring and wired it per mopar single wire distribution schematic- i got the tiniest hiccup from the first crank- after putting cylinder 1 tdc on compression stroke- still having a spark concern i believe- not 100% sureif my spark tester works or not.. gotta love vatozone.. any takes??
Say, whut?? "points distributor" and "ignition module??"
Time to get back to basics, I think.
DO YOU KNOW for certain that the module and coil are getting 12V during cranking? Are they getting power AFTER cranking in the "run" position of the ignition switch?
Sometimes simpler is better, until you get a positive result, and THEN investigate the fancy stuff.
In other words I would yank the module and wire it for regular old simple breaker points
HOW? Simple
First do you know how to set points? Make certain they have low resistance, a tach/ dwell with a resistance check function is a good, easy, way
Keep in mind you MUST have a good condenser (capacitor) and that "new" does not mean "functioning."
With the module as you have it, simply unplug the module connector, wire the distributor lead to the coil NEG after disconnecting the lead to the module. The coil resistor to the coil +, IF IT IS CORRECTLY WIRED for module operation, will be correct for the points dist.
IF NO SPARK THEN, remove the dist. cap and bump the engine til points open. Clip your meter to ground and the coil POS. You should have "same as battery" voltage.
Now bump the engine til the points close. You should now have NOT 12V at the coil but rather a lot less, perhaps 6 -- 8 volts or so. This indicates that the points are drawing current through the resistor and coil.
Now "rig" an old spark plug ad SOLID core wire (can be low voltage wire if you keep it away from metal) --rig it to the coil tower ad ground. NOW you have a spark tester. Cranking the engine should result in nice hot blue spark.
NOTE THAT cranking while using the KEY and while jumpering the start relay CREATES two different situations. Using the key (and properly working and properly wired,) the coil gets full battery voltage for a hot spark.
Rather, when jumpering the start relay, and with the key left in "run," not only are you powering the coil through the resistor with reduced voltage, but you are of course receiving less battery voltage because of starter curret
Time to get back to basics, I think.
DO YOU KNOW for certain that the module and coil are getting 12V during cranking? Are they getting power AFTER cranking in the "run" position of the ignition switch?
Sometimes simpler is better, until you get a positive result, and THEN investigate the fancy stuff.
In other words I would yank the module and wire it for regular old simple breaker points
HOW? Simple
First do you know how to set points? Make certain they have low resistance, a tach/ dwell with a resistance check function is a good, easy, way
Keep in mind you MUST have a good condenser (capacitor) and that "new" does not mean "functioning."
With the module as you have it, simply unplug the module connector, wire the distributor lead to the coil NEG after disconnecting the lead to the module. The coil resistor to the coil +, IF IT IS CORRECTLY WIRED for module operation, will be correct for the points dist.
IF NO SPARK THEN, remove the dist. cap and bump the engine til points open. Clip your meter to ground and the coil POS. You should have "same as battery" voltage.
Now bump the engine til the points close. You should now have NOT 12V at the coil but rather a lot less, perhaps 6 -- 8 volts or so. This indicates that the points are drawing current through the resistor and coil.
Now "rig" an old spark plug ad SOLID core wire (can be low voltage wire if you keep it away from metal) --rig it to the coil tower ad ground. NOW you have a spark tester. Cranking the engine should result in nice hot blue spark.
NOTE THAT cranking while using the KEY and while jumpering the start relay CREATES two different situations. Using the key (and properly working and properly wired,) the coil gets full battery voltage for a hot spark.
Rather, when jumpering the start relay, and with the key left in "run," not only are you powering the coil through the resistor with reduced voltage, but you are of course receiving less battery voltage because of starter curret
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