Ok so lets really talk K-members here Folks

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abodyjoe said:
i think you would be shocked as to how those skinny tires will handle. mine handled pretty damn good with the skinnys on it (pic below). no where near what it does now with the 17" wheels but damn good enough to surprise most of my friends when we hit a corner and i was right up their ***.:)


mikes__7-15-06_022.jpg
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Looks like you were the one who started the " skinny tire crap" part of the discussion or do you need to skim the thread again?
 
i have given alot of thought about buying a magnum force tube k-member but just bring myself to spend 3000 to start & almost 5000 complete. i did some huntin on internet & found some helix ifs kits for 1400 to 1700 complete. i will problly go that route next yr. i got tub job planned in aug will run about 5000 for every thing 29x 18 mickey thompson s/r tires & 15x 14 cragars. i even thought about a donor subframe out of a 95 & up camaro, or anything new enough to have rack & pinion. talked to a friend of mine who has 15 to 18 high end hot rods he said best thing go buy a wreck for 300 or 400 $ get sub frame & whatever other parts i can use junk the rest & almost get my money back for what was left, which made alot of sense to me. & i had heard about using sub frames on older cars before but after he explanned how it was done it wouldn't be that hard for someone with good welding skills
 
I can't afford the big bucks for a new one so I'm redoing mine. I drilled out the LCA bushings ( the sloppiest part of your suspension) and bought new pins and had new bushings turned for them. I re-welded the weak spots and plated the pin area. I have one welded in and will do the other this week.I'm thinking about a FirmFeel power steering box. My power steering has a little play that seems to show up at speed. I intend on keeping the torsion bars and use KYB shocks. The factory bushings are just tubes, they weren't very tight, these are exact fit. I had to polish them after welding, they shrank just a tad.
 

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HemiDenny said:
FYI...in '70-'71 (40 years ago)..when the Motown Missle was constructed the boys at Chrysler placed a r/p in the K-frame where the stabalizer bar would be..used stock spindles,a-rms ect...they simply used a small disc brake and heated/bent the longest LBJ/steering arm they could find...Sox,Hill,Mopar Missle Duster,ect..all did the same thing..worked OK for drag racing...they didn't have to turn much and they kept the suspension so limited in travel that bumpsteer wasn't a big issue.....this isn't exactly new...maybe just forgotten
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BINGO!
Maybe the low cost solution to the front steer discussion should be about manufacturing proper steering arms for front steer applications that mate up (bolt on!) to the stock uprights.
If the steering arm places the tie rod end properly, minimal bumpsteer and correct Ackerman for ANY front steer end use is a matter of selecting a rack of the correct length to the inner pivots for the intended chassis, using the correct tie rod length, then precisely placing said steering components in the chassis by modifying the stock K frame or using an outright replacement.
 
twofosho said:
BINGO!
Maybe the low cost solution to the front steer discussion should be about manufacturing proper steering arms for front steer applications that mate up (bolt on!) to the stock uprights.
If the steering arm places the tie rod end properly, minimal bumpsteer and correct Ackerman for ANY front steer end use is a matter of selecting a rack of the correct length to the inner pivots for the intended chassis, using the correct tie rod length, then precisely placing said steering components in the chassis by modifying the stock K frame or using an outright replacement.
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sounds like you're on the right track.....please let me know when they are available
 
I’m putting my money where my mouth is. I’ve acquired a Dakota cross member from Industrial Chassis in Phoenix. Application is actually a mid fifties Ford truck, but if you can get close to 29.75” between your frame rails, it could work. My car is an F-body, but it might be a player for the A-body. It has to be welded in place, but it uses all stock 87-96 Dodge Dakota front suspension parts. Springs, rack, a-arms, spindles the whole shootin’ match comes from the boneyard. Front track is around 60”. My F-body frame requires “wrapping” with heavy steel for this to work. Your mileage my vary….

Greg
 

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