Opinions wanted: 408/416 Stroker or 440?
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rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
I'm not much of a BB proponent, but in your situation I favor the stroked 400 w/aluminum heads suggestion.
The good sense 440 build is another worthy alternative. Only you know your financial wherewithal.
From the weight perspective, there's only about 150 pounds difference stock for stock.
That's right and once you aluminize everything you can on the big block engine, the weight difference is gone. The car will act like it has a small block in it weight wise.
Edit... I didn't realize the car was a B body. I'd big block it, but as I said earlier, your car, your way.
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Leadfoot
Jane Goodall of the N&P Forum
There's also something to be said about a full engine compartment.
draginmopars
Well-Known Member
Knowing it's in a "B" body
Turbo a 360, If I had it to do over again.
Do you have spare parts for the Drivetrain?
I built a 540 for the Satellite/ 727
A big block is fun, I remember driving a 67 GTX 440-4 speed, 67 Hemi 4 speed and one time a Superbird 440 4 speed.
Sure was fun, Grabbin a Gear....
Turbo a 360, If I had it to do over again.
Do you have spare parts for the Drivetrain?
I built a 540 for the Satellite/ 727
A big block is fun, I remember driving a 67 GTX 440-4 speed, 67 Hemi 4 speed and one time a Superbird 440 4 speed.
Sure was fun, Grabbin a Gear....
If definitely go big block. The 440 short block can build for a lot less than a stroker small block leaving more money for the parts the make power like heads. I'd would go with trick flows.
Other than size and a bit of weight 440 has most of the advantages. Better bore to stroke and rod ratio. Better bore size compared to displacement.
Other than size and a bit of weight 440 has most of the advantages. Better bore to stroke and rod ratio. Better bore size compared to displacement.
80fbody
Well-Known Member
Big block. So much easier to make 500hp. 400 based 451/470 will make that with ease. Not many go back to small block once you get into the big blocks. They make tons of torque, you don't have to rev them to the moon & blocks are stronger. Headers suck so but good TTI or Dougs, etc.
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
I would go big block hands down.
Get a good bare 440 block and buy a stroker kit, Trick Flow aluminum heads, a good set of headers, aluminum water pump housing, a cam and intake to match your needs, and a good clutch and tranny with 4:10 gears would put a lot of smiles on your face and make an easy 500 H.P. plus.
Sell the 340 to a restorer to recoup some of your costs.
Remember, an A-Body is a whole different animal than a B-Body, especially the weight balance, and the big block was made to easily fit in the B-Body platform...........
I've had several '69 Coronets with big blocks and small blocks in them over the years.
The best one i had was a '69 Coronet R/T with a 440 4 speed and 3:54 Dana.
It was completely stock other than headers, McCloud clutch, and electronic ignition.
That car really went and the torque was tremendous.
Another similar car was a '69 Super Bee with a 440, headers, cam, McCloud clutch and 3:54 Dana.
It was fun to drive and i bet it would beat the R/T in the quarter mile, but it was harder charging on the top end and had not as much on the bottom end, which was to be expected.
The original 383 magnum was all stock and was a lot of fun to drive, it revved quicker than the 440 for sure, but didn't have nearly the torque.
The R/T was a funner street car, and if you build an engine, build it for torque IMHO..............
Get a good bare 440 block and buy a stroker kit, Trick Flow aluminum heads, a good set of headers, aluminum water pump housing, a cam and intake to match your needs, and a good clutch and tranny with 4:10 gears would put a lot of smiles on your face and make an easy 500 H.P. plus.
Sell the 340 to a restorer to recoup some of your costs.
Remember, an A-Body is a whole different animal than a B-Body, especially the weight balance, and the big block was made to easily fit in the B-Body platform...........
I've had several '69 Coronets with big blocks and small blocks in them over the years.
The best one i had was a '69 Coronet R/T with a 440 4 speed and 3:54 Dana.
It was completely stock other than headers, McCloud clutch, and electronic ignition.
That car really went and the torque was tremendous.
Another similar car was a '69 Super Bee with a 440, headers, cam, McCloud clutch and 3:54 Dana.
It was fun to drive and i bet it would beat the R/T in the quarter mile, but it was harder charging on the top end and had not as much on the bottom end, which was to be expected.
The original 383 magnum was all stock and was a lot of fun to drive, it revved quicker than the 440 for sure, but didn't have nearly the torque.
The R/T was a funner street car, and if you build an engine, build it for torque IMHO..............
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moper
Well-Known Member
I can't argue that logic....lol
WSUTARD
Well-Known Member
Mopar-Man
Big Block Better Burnout
Agreed. I had a 13:1 440 with a .620 lift solid cam and it revved like a lightswitch!
shootr2506
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The
A big block in A body is a whole lot of fun but there are many issues involved if you’re planning on running the big block with B body H P exhaust manifolds it will be a credit card fit between the shock tower and the exhaust manifold , it’s a tight fit with any exhaust manifolds or headers for that matter , and if you’re using the Edelbrock RPM intake manifold The clearance when you close your hood will be minimal if you’re not running a hood scoop . You will definitely have over heating issues with the 440 in a A body , to fix that problem I made a larger opening on the RaDiator support and ran a be cool Hemi big block A body system with two fans it comes as a complete kit around $1500 works like a charm . That whole system was in a 68 Plymouth valiant I now have a new build My 1971 Dodge dart definitely going with the 408 small block hoping to get somewhere around 500 horse power If I had to do it all over again I would definitely Go with the 408
Heck of a first post and a good testament. Welcome aboard!
too much stroke and too much hp for a stock thin wall 340 block casting. go with a 400 big block, headers, aluminum intake and heads. much more reliable and sustainable horsepower. 340 stock heads and you need hardened valve seats and even with aluminum heads it wont flow as much air as a good set of comparable big block heads. big block. easier to achieve high horsepower with out aftermarket bullet proof parts. and you can add to the big block as you go with aftermarket bullet proof parts like stroking, aluminum heads and wild streetable camshaft grinds.
shootr2506
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Thank you buddy I never ran a 408 but I’m hearing nothing but good things about it , alot of folks are saying you can get into the high 11s with the 408
Flyinbrian72duster
Dart and duster
I have a 416 dyno results 506 hp at 5700 but 525 ftlbs at 4600 cost a pretty penny but its a beast
It’s not the cubes but the combo against the weight because the grand picture is effort of the engine and what the engine is putting effort against.
More cubes = more torque. More Torque makes it easier to move.
11’s can be done with a 318. But the engine is going to put froth more effort in order to do so. Bigger engine, less effort.
Actually very easy lower 11's in an A body.
this is true. there is a NHRA stock class racer from California that races a 64 valiant signet with a 318 AND A 2 BARREL CARB that runs 11.73-11.78 in the quarter mile.
I still stand by my post too much stroke and hp for a thin wall casting like the 340. and if you are going to use sticky tires especially at the drag strip with a prepped track (VHT or equivalent traction compound) you better get a bigger rear axle. the 8 3/4 will not take the abuse. a dana 60 will but the car wont handle as well on the street. too much unsprung weight. a good choice would be the poor mans dana which is a dana 44 out of a 90's grand Cherokee. its all aluminum, way stronger than a 8 3/4, will take drag strip abuse and is easily modified.
if you do go with the 408 and continue using it as a daily driver, pm me in a few and tell me how may miles you got out of it before you windowed the block. most savvy racers running a small block hard block the water jackets, use studs instead of head and main cap bolts and run a girdle. or they do the really smart thing to do, they get a race block and use studs instead of bolts with a girdle.
that 340 was a fun little motor in its day and you can make big power with it, it just wont live long with the abuse. remember motors are built up to drive hard.
if you do go with the 408 and continue using it as a daily driver, pm me in a few and tell me how may miles you got out of it before you windowed the block. most savvy racers running a small block hard block the water jackets, use studs instead of head and main cap bolts and run a girdle. or they do the really smart thing to do, they get a race block and use studs instead of bolts with a girdle.
that 340 was a fun little motor in its day and you can make big power with it, it just wont live long with the abuse. remember motors are built up to drive hard.
Excellent pair of posts.
The above racer is doing more with less. Most street guys will do less with more. The difference? Doing less with more is almost always a case of streetabilty! And it is hard to argue that.
A stroker @ 400+ cubes, a small block, creating an 11 second strip runner will be easier on the engines effort that it has to put forth & still have a nice enough street demeanor to allow it to be enjoyable.
Going back many many years.....
I remember my friends dad and his 11 second ‘57 Chevy screaming bloody murder on its runs. I can say it was a well thought out strip only car. But I know also cry for the little engine that could. A 283. Poor lil’Bastard! LMAO!
I was not aware the blocks are so weak........
Many people have successfully run stroker small blocks without "windowing the block". Now I agree compltely that application will dictate survival. In a race only an aftermarket block is a good idea. On a hot street machine a well prepped stock block with studs is sufficient in my opinion.
I don’t know where he gets “thin wall” from on 340 blocks except seriously overbore blocks, but then again, I have seen a 340 get stupidly thin with just a .030 overbore.
Every build should be sonic checked IMO. Just so you know your in a good or bad spot.
Every build should be sonic checked IMO. Just so you know your in a good or bad spot.
LA means light A motor, designation given when it was redesigned to save weight. stock 340 block survives up to 450-475 horsepower well, after that you are looking for trouble. it is a passenger car motor designed for street use not racing. that's why they started coming out with race blocks. and I guarantee with todays stick tires and track prep you are looking for trouble past 500hp. even if its occasional trips to the drag strip. and as horsepower goes up you are looking at freshening the motor to keep it performing consistent for racing. kiss the valves, rehone the cylinders, maybe replace the rings and check the bearings etc.. performance falls off faster than you would think and everyone I know races to win.
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