Oregon cam nailed it!!!

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HankRearden

HankRearden

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It took a while but I put together a stock bottom end magnum 5.9 with some Chinese eq heads and a reground cam for my 79 d200. I need torque for pulling my boat. I'm not drag racing.
Oregon cam recommended
#1429

210/214 @ .050”, 260/264 adv, .506”/.506” lift, 111 sep., 900/5200

This thing is surprisingly good. At light throttle away from a red light I can't help but smoke one tire. It is so torquey its impressive.
I will definitely use Oregon Cam again.
I can't wait to see how this thing runs when I get the carb and ignition timing turned.
This will drag my old heavy boat for sure.
 
Yup. I recommend them all the time and it falls on deaf ears.
 
inertia said:
If you have manual valve-body, I used to haulout in 2nd, let the converter slip, wet or dry ramp.
Click to expand...
Interesting idea. I'm looking for an a500 trans and a Dana 60 limited slip carrier next for this truck.
Of course after I do a bunch of body repairs.
I can't seem to own a vehicle that isn't in large part made of mig wire.
 
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Duno. For once in my life I decided to trust the professionals. I hadn't built engines or researched camshafts in over twenty years. I've forgotten most of what I learned in my classes back in the 90's.

It was 18 degrees in my barn the day I installed the cam. I didn't degree it. I stabbed it in and lubed it liberally and went back to working on rewiring the house.
ch1ll said:
What is the intake lobe centerline?
Click to expand...
 
I want them to grind me the old small block MP 508 purple shaft on the 108 CL. Could they do it?
 
mopardude318 said:
I want them to grind me the old small block MP 508 purple shaft on the 108 CL. Could they do it?
Click to expand...
It has to be from their grind list. I'm sure they have something close. Look at their hydraulic list and ignore the lobe separation figures, because they will change those no charge.
 
Ken reccomends the 1429 quite often. I sent a core to them for a friend who had one ground on a 108 LSA to put in a 5.9 Magnum.
 
There is a recent 34 min you tube video by Cattle Dog Garage. Sorry, do not know how to link it.

He confirms D. Vizard's 128 rule, with lots of dyno tests & technical explanations. He also confirms DVs claim that if you want a smoother idle/more low end, you do NOT widen the LSA, you shorten the duration.

Anybody contemplating getting a cam ground should watch it....
 
HankRearden said:
It took a while but I put together a stock bottom end magnum 5.9 with some Chinese eq heads and a reground cam for my 79 d200. I need torque for pulling my boat. I'm not drag racing.
Oregon cam recommended
#1429

210/214 @ .050”, 260/264 adv, .506”/.506” lift, 111 sep., 900/5200

This thing is surprisingly good. At light throttle away from a red light I can't help but smoke one tire. It is so torquey its impressive.
I will definitely use Oregon Cam again.
I can't wait to see how this thing runs when I get the carb and ignition timing turned.
This will drag my old heavy boat for sure.
Click to expand...

That’s almost exactly the same as Oregon ground for the magnum in my Dart.
214/224 with .512 lift.
I told Ken torque was the goal.
It pulls for sure.
 
HankRearden said:
Duno. For once in my life I decided to trust the professionals. I hadn't built engines or researched camshafts in over twenty years. I've forgotten most of what I learned in my classes back in the 90's.

It was 18 degrees in my barn the day I installed the cam. I didn't degree it. I stabbed it in and lubed it liberally and went back to working on rewiring the house.
Click to expand...
It should be on the cam card, you did get one,didn’t you?
 
HankRearden said:
It took a while but I put together a stock bottom end magnum 5.9 with some Chinese eq heads and a reground cam for my 79 d200. I need torque for pulling my boat. I'm not drag racing.
Oregon cam recommended
#1429

210/214 @ .050”, 260/264 adv, .506”/.506” lift, 111 sep., 900/5200

This thing is surprisingly good. At light throttle away from a red light I can't help but smoke one tire. It is so torquey its impressive.
I will definitely use Oregon Cam again.
I can't wait to see how this thing runs when I get the carb and ignition timing turned.
This will drag my old heavy boat for sure.
Click to expand...
I just had Ken grind one for my 440 solid roller build. Got the BAM lifters & Harland Sharp 1.6 rockers thru him too. Have only run it on the stand so far but sure sounds good!! Ken was great to work with!
 
ch1ll said:
It should be on the cam card, you did get one,didn’t you?
Click to expand...
Im sure I did but i don't have any idea where I put it. This has been a five minute here and there project for a year.
 
HankRearden said:
Interesting idea. I'm looking for an a500 trans and a Dana 60 limited slip carrier next for this truck.
Of course after I do a bunch of body repairs.
I can't seem to own a vehicle that isn't in large part made of mig wire.
Click to expand...
500 for towing? Don't you mean 518?
 
volaredon said:
500 for towing? Don't you mean 518?
Click to expand...

HankRearden said:
either or. Im sure they all need rebuilt and beefed up so whatever I find cheap
Click to expand...

The 500 came in mid sized trucks that were advertised as capable of towing 4,500 lbs or more.
I checked into this long before I put one in my Dart.
That towing capacity coupled with the A body being a lot lighter than the truck it came out of gave me the confidence that it would hold up ok.

I pulled mine from a late 90’s Dakota that had a 5.2,
Checked the pan before I pulled it to find it very clean inside with remnants of bright red fluid.
I put a stage 2 transgo kit in it with the updated manual valve along with the “First gear at any speed” option.
New front and rear seals went in as well as a new rubber over steel pan gasket.
No other upgrades, and it’s been flawless for 5-6 years so far.
And it hasn’t been babied.
I don’t thrash on overdrive or lockup.

I paid $125.00 for the trans, converter, dip stick and 7290 yoke out of the local pick a part.

( I think more people should say what things cost, so others could have some idea of what’s possible.)
 
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TrailBeast said:
I pulled mine from a late 90’s Dakota that had a 5.2,
Checked the pan before I pulled it to find it very clean inside with remnants of bright red fluid.
I put a stage 2 transgo kit in it with the updated manual valve along with the “First gear at any speed” option.


I paid $125.00 for the trans, converter, dip stick and 7290 yoke out of the local pick a part.

( I think more people should say what things cost, so others could have some idea of what’s possible.)
Click to expand...
so would that have been a 42RE? and you use the trans kit to control the shift points and your adjustable NOS solenoids to dial in the OD and lock up?

agree on pricing. some people throw around WAG on that stuff or they've still got 80's brain on what things cost now a days.
 
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