Over heating

[71dodgedart]

Dodge 360 over heating when sitting it over heats really fast I have tried everything new radiator, high CFM fans , water pump,thermostat, switch to serpentine belt the motor has Edelbrock aluminum heads holly sniper

 

[French demon]

Maybe some rust-obstructed engine water passages reduce down cooling liquid flow..?

 

[dano]

What is your initial timing and AFR at idle?

 

[abodyjoe]

high CFM fans

electric fans? i see more posts on the various mopar boards that i follow where stupid *** electric fans end up being the issue.

what rad is in it?
what fans?
is that belt set up under driven?

it only over heats sitting? driving it s fine?

 

[Kendog 170]

This set up is good if you have a 26" Radiator if you insist on electric fan set up. Mechanical fan with proper shroud will do as well. If that's your issue.
dano makes a good point as well.
Anyone use these electric fans?

 

[George Jets]

Please tell me you "Don't" have Electric Fans and their accompaning restrictive Flat Cookie Sheet Fan Shroud.

Please.....



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[George Jets]

Dodge 360 over heating when sitting it over heats really fast I have tried everything new radiator, high CFM fans , water pump,thermostat, switch to serpentine belt the motor has Edelbrock aluminum heads holly sniper

All the right parts in place to boil water.

Talk to some old school people who's cars are running cool and see what their game plan is.


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[dano]

Yeah those flat fan shrouds from places like Champion do not cool at all. My dad tested a duel 12" set up and it ran hotter (overheated) on his 440 than no fan or shroud at all on the same day, same temp same drive. Those aftermarket electric fans do not flow enough air either.

 

[ProjectBazza]

Yeah those flat fan shrouds from places like Champion do not cool at all. My dad tested a duel 12" set up and it ran hotter (overheated) on his 440 than no fan or shroud at all on the same day, same temp same drive. Those aftermarket electric fans do not flow enough air either.

Years ago I was a "factory tech" for a large commercial HVAC manufacturer (that used to be) located here in MN, and when I wasn't out in the field I spent most of my time in our in-house R&D lab, setting up and conducting various tests for the Engineers. We did a LOT of fan testing, and while I'm not an Engineer, over the years I've developed a pretty good "eye" (or BS detector!) when it comes to good and bad airflow systems, and when I see some of the **** that some of these companies try to pass-off (your "flat fan shroud" is a perfect example), it really pisses me off.

 

[Demonx2]

If it helps, I just posted a little expose' in post #179 in this thread 72 Demon. Keep or sell for something else?? . I don't consider myself the cooling guru but offer it up as a sample of 1 that seems to work quite well.

I assume with the Holley Sniper system, you can command spark and fuel values you want to get the spark where you want it and the A/F ratio a tad on the rich side at maybe 14.0:1. The spark value likely depends on how big or small your cam is - bigger cam probably wants more advance to light the fire early enough to get the burn done with all of the residuals left over from the extra overlap.

 

[68Bee]

What does it run with no T-stat in it? Let’s start from square one.

 

[Bewy]

If not a malfunctioning t'sta, then most likely retarded ign timing [ at idle ].

 

[harrisonm]

Trash the electric fan setup. I tried it once, and I am embarrassed to tell how much money I threw away on that. I went with a factory fan shroud and positioned the fan blade properly. It still runs a bit warm, but it is much better.

 

[RustyRatRod]

How bout some pictures and a COMPLETE description of your cooling system? I mean chit, you may as well have said "help, my car's over heating and it's blue". We have ZERO to go on here. Maybe throw us a bone.

 

[George Jets]

Heat travels to lesser heat.

When you have an engine bay full of heat it is hard for the heat from the radiator to travel to lesser heat.

Contributing factors > headers dumping heat into the engine bay, power steering put extra load on engine, same with AC compressor running on a hot day and the AC condenser dumping heat into the radiator, transmission cooler out front or in the radiator dumping heat into the radiator. Big azz Alternator trying to generate enough electricity for electric fans, AC blower motors, electronic fuel pumps, electronic fuel injection all requiring more electricity creating more heat.

These cars were created quite simple back in the day they were built without all the extra add ons.

Heat travels to lesser heat, basic rule of thermal dynamics.


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[Kendog 170]

Even with a mechanical fan and shroud if the fan blades aren't 1/2 in the shroud and 1/2 out you could have an issue.

 

[Bewy]

I have never been a fan of elec fans on these old engines, but the OP says it heats up 'really fast when sitting'. I doubt that is the fans.
Other possibilities:
- serpentine belt set up. Opposite rotation & wrong pump used.
- when you buy the serp set up, pump is often underdriven & engine o'heats; they do NOT tell you this when you buy the set up, you have to find out the hard way.....

 

[abodyjoe]

looks like the OP pulled the old post and ghost.

 

[RustyRatRod]

looks like the OP pulled the old post and ghost.

It gets old, doesn't it?

 

[abodyjoe]

It gets old, doesn't it?

sure does..

 

[71dodgedart]

electric fans? i see more posts on the various mopar boards that i follow where stupid *** electric fans end up being the issue.

what rad is in it?
what fans?
is that belt set up under driven?

it only over heats sitting? driving it s fine?

The belt set up is new hoping to fix the overheating

 

[abodyjoe]

i'm not a fan of those cheap alumn rads.. but whatever..

thats the fan you are running? you running one or two? i think i'd try a belt driven 18" fan and shroud before going crazy with anything else..

a few pics of your actual set up would be a great help. you know, rad, fans, belts and pulleys.. i'd like to see how you have it all set up.. we may be able to save you time and money.

 

[MILO]

I bought a Dart that overheated it had new bigger flow fan and you could see the car had been worked on a lot and had a rod knock. So was going to pull the engine because I had a good one to put back in. I was removing the radiator and found the spring inside the lower hose had a plastic cap on the end of it causing the problem

 

[AJ/FormS]

Are you by any chance running Hypereutectic pistons with tight ring-gaps?
The KB rules, for street, did NOT work for me, at their specs. I had the same issue, even into cruising speed. Every time I shut it off, it would lock up, and it would be ~20 minutes or more before the starter could crank it, and no, it wasn't the starter.
Same starter is still on it after I loosened the engine; and I now run her at 207*F minimum coolant temp. it's rock-steady. I almost never look at the temp gauge any more, except after a blast to redline, just to be sure the belt is still on her.

 

[caozman]

If it helps, I just posted a little expose' in post #179 in this thread 72 Demon. Keep or sell for something else?? . I don't consider myself the cooling guru but offer it up as a sample of 1 that seems to work quite well.

I assume with the Holley Sniper system, you can command spark and fuel values you want to get the spark where you want it and the A/F ratio a tad on the rich side at maybe 14.0:1. The spark value likely depends on how big or small your cam is - bigger cam probably wants more advance to light the fire early enough to get the burn done with all of the residuals left over from the extra overlap.

Your link is dead. Can you send me your info on the fan and cooling issue? Email is (no email addresses allowed in public forums, take it to a private message) Running a '69 Formula S 340 and it runs hot! Everything with the car is OEM with the exception of the cam is from a '68 340 and Chrysler's vaunted electronic iginition. Pretty basic factory resto 340 4 spd.