Painting inside of frame rails

-

George L

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2016
Messages
96
Reaction score
10
Location
Mount Hope Ontario
Any ideas or suggestions on how to paint ( Por15) inside of the old frame rails ,


The complete car has been dipped and stripped
 
Last edited:
If using POR 15 my understanding is that you have to use a brush. There's no big mystery to methodology, from what I have read it cannot be sprayed without fatal consequences.

Please correct me if someone else has better information.
 
If using POR 15 my understanding is that you have to use a brush. There's no big mystery to methodology, from what I have read it cannot be sprayed without fatal consequences.

Please correct me if someone else has better information.

I use a siphon system on the end of my compressed air blower nozzle for doing things like that.
This way I basically blow the POR in without actually atomizing it like paint spray.
I use the elevation of the POR container to regulate flow.

And you are correct about wire brushing first being recommended, but sometimes it's just not possible and we have to settle for the best we can do.

And then I just realized you probably meant brushing the POR on and not prepping by brush.:D
 
Last edited:
If using POR 15 my understanding is that you have to use a brush. There's no big mystery to methodology, from what I have read it cannot be sprayed without fatal consequences.

Please correct me if someone else has better information.
Eastwood company has a spray can w/ a flex tube that will spray rust modifier as you drag it thru the rail. Supposed to change rust to something else, and stop it.
 
I use a siphon system on the end of my compressed air blower nozzle for doing things like that.
This way I basically blow the POR in without actually atomizing it like paint spray.
I use the elevation of the POR container to regulate flow.

And you are correct about wire brushing first being recommended, but sometimes it's just not possible and we have to settle for the best we can do.


Any chance at seeing a photo of this set up??
 
Here is a kit that I will be using from KBS. POR-15 does have their solvent to thin down the product to make it spray-able, and there are all sorts of rust proofing wands on the web, check evilbay for sure.

DSCN1542.JPG
 
Eastwood company has a spray can w/ a flex tube that will spray rust modifier as you drag it thru the rail. Supposed to change rust to something else, and stop it.

That's pretty close to how the way I do it works.
 
The Eastwood internal frame coating works great. My shop is near a high end restoration shop that I hang out at a bit. They use that stuff all the time. After they dip the frame they use it. I've actually seen it used and they rave about the results. For hobbyists they say it works great on undipped stuff too. Just blow out the loose stuff and spray away. They've also mentioned it for trunk extensions, inside doors, or anywhere else that's not practical for Joe public to prep right.
 
Any chance at seeing a photo of this set up??

No picture, sorry.
Pretty much all my mechanical working life I have used a syphon system and blower if I needed to spray clean something with solvents and they make attachments just for that.
Instead of solvent I use POR15.
Basically something like this except mine has a hose where this one has a long metal tube.
I tape a section of coat hanger wire to the hose if I need it to reach way down inside something where the hose itself might be a problem.
Then like I said, I can vary the volume it blows in by container elevation.
Hold it up higher than the gun while spraying and you get a lot more volume of product.

You do have to drop your product back down below the gun when you let the air off, or the product runs out via gravity.
I try not to thin the product unless I have to, but Eastwood told me Lacquer thinner is fine for reducing POR15.

hqdefault.jpg
 
No picture, sorry.
Pretty much all my mechanical working life I have used a syphon system and blower if I needed to spray clean something with solvents and they make attachments just for that.
Instead of solvent I use POR15.
Basically something like this except mine has a hose where this one has a long metal tube.
I tape a section of coat hanger wire to the hose if I need it to reach way down inside something where the hose itself might be a problem.
Then like I said, I can vary the volume it blows in by container elevation.
Hold it up higher than the gun while spraying and you get a lot more volume of product.

You do have to drop your product back down below the gun when you let the air off, or the product runs out via gravity.

View attachment 1715108887
That is the exactly an old sandblast gun i have . ill try this out thanks a lot
 
That is the exactly an old sandblast gun i have . ill try this out thanks a lot

Yep, those work to.:D
I put a pair of hemostats on the supply hose so I can shut the flow off.
Might be a good idea with a sandblast gun because it might have a lot more volume than a regular air gun.

Though kind of comical to picture, I would hate to find out you ended up rolling around on the ground in a big puddle of POR trying to stop the flow.
 
Eastwood company has a spray can w/ a flex tube that will spray rust modifier as you drag it thru the rail. Supposed to change rust to something else, and stop it.
Well, I can tell you it does make a mess so cover the floor! Coverage inside a boxed area is a guessing game. Not so sure it stops anything that's already started though.
 
Well, I can tell you it does make a mess so cover the floor! Coverage inside a boxed area is a guessing game. Not so sure it stops anything that's already started though.

I've had several old cars come into our shop that have been painted underneath and look great, but nothing done to the inside portion of the rails. I've gone to using an undercoating gun with a long wand and oil spraying the inside of the frame rails. Oil penetrates better than anything else and will slow the rust to a crawl plus the undercoat gun applies it very liberally........yes it will make a mess and drip for awhile, but paint will only lift and flake off after a short time. Like Daves69 referred to, paint cannot stop what's already started inside the frame and can hardly be seen. I hope this helps.
 
I bought several cans of the eastwood stuff to do the inside of my cowl and frame rails. I have not used it yet so cant comment on how well it works.
 
I bought several cans of the eastwood stuff to do the inside of my cowl and frame rails. I have not used it yet so cant comment on how well it works.
You might consider attaching some of the tube and spray head to a stiff wire to provide some measure of control. I just taped it to a heavier coat hangar wire.
 
You might consider attaching some of the tube and spray head to a stiff wire to provide some measure of control. I just taped it to a heavier coat hangar wire.
The guys at the resto shop attached it to a fiberglass rod from a driveway reflector.
 
I slide the coat hanger inside the tubing. Works slick. Next will be a nozzle that sprays 90 degrees out of 5 or 6 ports. Shove tube in and drag out whilst spraying. Sand blast gun is a great idea.
Respirators, people! Cant imagine what por 15 will do to your lungs....
 
I have had exceptional results using Eastwoods inner frame rail paint. It works exactly like they advertise. I have used 6 cans to date on my 74 dart sport, as I used 2 coats in all the frame rails and hard to reach areas. I appreciate how thin the product is so it runs into all the cavities.

Eastwood Internal Frame Coating 14oz Aerosol

I put some weights on the 24" spray tube to straighten it out as it comes wound up.

20170701_141239.jpg
 
-
Back
Top