LOL Don! Like I said, no reasonable offer will be refused!!!
Phoenix Specialty Coatings Review
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SleeperScamp
Well-Known Member
Well, when and if I ever get started back on my car, I will definitely be sending you some business.... I hope that day is soon.......:sad11:
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
leann,,here,s the offer,,i send you my timing cover and blower intake,,and i get it back all pretty,,,with a pic of you in a bathing suit of YOUR choice,,holding my parts,,,,engine parts that is,,,LOL
i have a steering wheel im debating on trying some thing with,,,
i have a steering wheel im debating on trying some thing with,,,
Don, that offer sounds more than reasonable. I'll even autograph it.
I just got done with a blower intake for a small block Chevy in Super Chrome. Haven't done the blower itself yet but plan to. If you have a big block, kindly forward the measurements in a PM so I can make sure it'll fit in my oven first. The timing cover is no problem at all though.
As far as the steering wheel goes, if it doesn't have any rubber or plastic attached then I can definitely help you do something distinctive. With over 6,500 colors available, there's plenty of choices! And don't feel limited to just one color either -- the spokes could match your paint for example, and the horn button, wheel and turn signal lever could be done in a matching or contrasting candy or something to really set it off. As I've said before, the only limit to what I can do is your imagination.
But if you want to jump in on that 20% discount on underhood parts, there's only a few days left in January to get them over here. (Hmmmm, now that I think about it, maybe I'll have to charge extra for that autographed bathing suit pose holding your parts ... it's been in the teens and 20s here and I could end up poking out an eye or something.)
I'll look forward to hearing from you!
I just got done with a blower intake for a small block Chevy in Super Chrome. Haven't done the blower itself yet but plan to. If you have a big block, kindly forward the measurements in a PM so I can make sure it'll fit in my oven first. The timing cover is no problem at all though.
As far as the steering wheel goes, if it doesn't have any rubber or plastic attached then I can definitely help you do something distinctive. With over 6,500 colors available, there's plenty of choices! And don't feel limited to just one color either -- the spokes could match your paint for example, and the horn button, wheel and turn signal lever could be done in a matching or contrasting candy or something to really set it off. As I've said before, the only limit to what I can do is your imagination.
But if you want to jump in on that 20% discount on underhood parts, there's only a few days left in January to get them over here. (Hmmmm, now that I think about it, maybe I'll have to charge extra for that autographed bathing suit pose holding your parts ... it's been in the teens and 20s here and I could end up poking out an eye or something.)
I'll look forward to hearing from you!
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
leann,, if you poke my eye out ide gladly pay double,,hint hint,,,
im currently not ready yet,,i have a small block,,inake is not bigger then a normal small block mopar intake,,i seen an intake u did i think u caled it blasted aluminum,,,was that a color ?? or sand blasted intake ??
only problem with the timing cover is,,i had a water pump built by evans cooling,,a guy sorta local to me does there powder coating,did it in east woods chrome color,, looks ok,,,ide have to send you pics to see if u can match the water pump,,,
the steering wheel is in my street rod,,dull silver spokes,clear coated wood looking rim,,i would sand off the clear coat,and do the rim in gray,or the car color,,blue, ,and the spokes in a brite or chrome look,,,
heres the blower ,look at the intake
im currently not ready yet,,i have a small block,,inake is not bigger then a normal small block mopar intake,,i seen an intake u did i think u caled it blasted aluminum,,,was that a color ?? or sand blasted intake ??
only problem with the timing cover is,,i had a water pump built by evans cooling,,a guy sorta local to me does there powder coating,did it in east woods chrome color,, looks ok,,,ide have to send you pics to see if u can match the water pump,,,
the steering wheel is in my street rod,,dull silver spokes,clear coated wood looking rim,,i would sand off the clear coat,and do the rim in gray,or the car color,,blue, ,and the spokes in a brite or chrome look,,,
heres the blower ,look at the intake
Don, I enjoyed speaking with you today and look forward to working with you on your various jobs between now and the end of the year. When you're ready, I'll be here.
"Blasted Aluminum" is one of my powder colors. It's routinely chosen by my customers who want a factory-type finish. In addition to these pictures in my post, you can also see several samples of it on my website Gallery including the 340 6 pak and Pontiac Torker intake manifolds. (The powder color is always listed in the captions of my Gallery pictures for future reference.)
As we discussed on the phone, matching the color of your water pump is the easy part. I have a few Eastwood powders here but I prefer to use NIC Industries' products -- I just have better results and the colors are more consistent.
My main concern with coating any car part that contains seals, o-rings or plastic stems from the fact that those substances DO NOT tolerate heat well and will not survive the curing process intact. You're in good shape with your Evans water pump because it was assembled after it was powder coated. Granted, some shops have coated factory water/power steering pumps, blower motors, etc., without problems, but I want you to be aware of the potential for failure of the part once you start pumping chemicals through it.
Your steering wheel will look great with the color combos you're thinking of. Again though, if the woodgrain-looking rim is plastic, we may run into heat-related problems. You might also consider checking out some of the full body aluminum steering wheels sold by SpeedwayMotors.com. They have a terrific selection (some styles are similar to Grant's), great customer service, and no plastic parts to worry about melting.
For color comparison purposes, the photos I have attached below show you the differences in the powders known as "Reflective Chrome," "Super Chrome," "Blasted Aluminum," and uncoated media blasted factory aluminum.
The Holley Strip Dominator (with the hidden nitrous setup) was done in Eastwood's "Reflective Chrome," the same color you have on your water pump now.
On the dual quad tunnel ram, the body and top sections were coated with NIC's "Super Chrome," and the fuel rail was coated in Eastwood's "Blasted Aluminum." The linkage has not been powder coated at all.
The sbc aluminum timing cover shown was just media blasted this afternoon and was washed and dried, but has not yet been coated. Comparing the bare timing cover and the fuel rail, you can see why customers pick the "Blasted Aluminum" for a factory look.
These should give you a very good idea of the differences and help you arrive at a decision.
"Blasted Aluminum" is one of my powder colors. It's routinely chosen by my customers who want a factory-type finish. In addition to these pictures in my post, you can also see several samples of it on my website Gallery including the 340 6 pak and Pontiac Torker intake manifolds. (The powder color is always listed in the captions of my Gallery pictures for future reference.)
As we discussed on the phone, matching the color of your water pump is the easy part. I have a few Eastwood powders here but I prefer to use NIC Industries' products -- I just have better results and the colors are more consistent.
My main concern with coating any car part that contains seals, o-rings or plastic stems from the fact that those substances DO NOT tolerate heat well and will not survive the curing process intact. You're in good shape with your Evans water pump because it was assembled after it was powder coated. Granted, some shops have coated factory water/power steering pumps, blower motors, etc., without problems, but I want you to be aware of the potential for failure of the part once you start pumping chemicals through it.
Your steering wheel will look great with the color combos you're thinking of. Again though, if the woodgrain-looking rim is plastic, we may run into heat-related problems. You might also consider checking out some of the full body aluminum steering wheels sold by SpeedwayMotors.com. They have a terrific selection (some styles are similar to Grant's), great customer service, and no plastic parts to worry about melting.
For color comparison purposes, the photos I have attached below show you the differences in the powders known as "Reflective Chrome," "Super Chrome," "Blasted Aluminum," and uncoated media blasted factory aluminum.
The Holley Strip Dominator (with the hidden nitrous setup) was done in Eastwood's "Reflective Chrome," the same color you have on your water pump now.
On the dual quad tunnel ram, the body and top sections were coated with NIC's "Super Chrome," and the fuel rail was coated in Eastwood's "Blasted Aluminum." The linkage has not been powder coated at all.
The sbc aluminum timing cover shown was just media blasted this afternoon and was washed and dried, but has not yet been coated. Comparing the bare timing cover and the fuel rail, you can see why customers pick the "Blasted Aluminum" for a factory look.
These should give you a very good idea of the differences and help you arrive at a decision.
340mopar
Sorgermotorsports
How much to have a tunnel ram coated in the "Super Chrome"? How do you clean the parts before coating? Because the tunnel ram is currently on my car so it has a certain amount of staining on the aluminum.
Chuck
Chuck
Chuck, there's several factors involved in a price quote; they're all addressed in detail on my website under the "Pricing / Shipping" tab, and a basic ballpark price list for standard colors is also on there further down the page.
http://phoenixspecialtycoatings.com/page4.html
"Super Chrome" has a slight additional cost ($5.00 - $10.00) because it's a more expensive powder than a standard color like "Ink Black" or "Chrysler Orange."
Generally, for a clean or new small block single four-barrel tunnel ram, they run about $175.00 plus shipping. For a dual quad tunnel ram, it's about $200.00 plus shipping.
If your tunnel ram requires a lot more than a routine basic media blasting, it can cost you more because I'd honestly prefer to spend my day powder coating than scraping, wire brushing, etc. I'm certainly not above doing the work or mind getting dirty at all, but I don't do it for free. Neither would you.
You didn't specify what the staining was caused by but I suspect routine media blasting will probably be sufficient to get it down to bare metal so it can be coated. It's tough to say without seeing a good picture of it or knowing what it came from though. Aluminum is a soft metal that can be saturated by various chemicals over the years that have to be removed in order for the powder to adhere and for the coating to last. It has special prep procedures as well (aka trade secrets) to remove the impurities and air trapped in the metal when it's originally formed or else they'll come through your coating and make the finished product look awful. Regardless of which shop you decide to send your tunnel ram to, make sure they're experienced working with aluminum. I hope you decide to send it to mine.
Thanks for your question and for the opportunity to earn your business. Of course, if you have further questions or want to discuss details, just give me a call between 10 a.m. and 9 p.m. central time.
http://phoenixspecialtycoatings.com/page4.html
"Super Chrome" has a slight additional cost ($5.00 - $10.00) because it's a more expensive powder than a standard color like "Ink Black" or "Chrysler Orange."
Generally, for a clean or new small block single four-barrel tunnel ram, they run about $175.00 plus shipping. For a dual quad tunnel ram, it's about $200.00 plus shipping.
If your tunnel ram requires a lot more than a routine basic media blasting, it can cost you more because I'd honestly prefer to spend my day powder coating than scraping, wire brushing, etc. I'm certainly not above doing the work or mind getting dirty at all, but I don't do it for free. Neither would you.
You didn't specify what the staining was caused by but I suspect routine media blasting will probably be sufficient to get it down to bare metal so it can be coated. It's tough to say without seeing a good picture of it or knowing what it came from though. Aluminum is a soft metal that can be saturated by various chemicals over the years that have to be removed in order for the powder to adhere and for the coating to last. It has special prep procedures as well (aka trade secrets) to remove the impurities and air trapped in the metal when it's originally formed or else they'll come through your coating and make the finished product look awful. Regardless of which shop you decide to send your tunnel ram to, make sure they're experienced working with aluminum. I hope you decide to send it to mine.
Thanks for your question and for the opportunity to earn your business. Of course, if you have further questions or want to discuss details, just give me a call between 10 a.m. and 9 p.m. central time.
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
leann thanks for posting the pics,,,very hard to tell the balsted look on this page,,,,but i think both versions of chrome look good,,since my water pump is already done in east wood reflective chrome,,, ill do the timing cober in the same,,,as for my intake,,,probably the same,,,,just so it matches the rest,,
This photo is a really accurate depiction of the color of "Blasted Aluminum." The hardware and linkage were coated in "Satin Black."
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
blasted aluminum looks kool,,,,thansk for posting
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