Photos Sub Frame Connectors

[72ScampTramp]

Trying to get educated on sub frame connectors for my 72 scamp. Id like to see photos of different styles. Also what size and style of steel are you using?

 

[pettybludart]

Here,s mine Josh,they,re 3x1 inch cost was $24.They,ll work for the cost.I bought ones from Mopar Performance for my 73 Dart Sport 340,they were over $120 for 2x3 inch.No pics of them,sorry.

 

[jtisdale]

These were on the duster when i bought it. not sure what brand they are

 

[bOb shingler]

these are the second set i made, the first went in my 71 demon and this into a 68 runrunner.

 

[72ScampTramp]

I think the weld in style are what I need. It will be a fairly stout 440 so with the added weight and HP/TQ I do believe thats the way to go. What wall thickness are yall using? I noticed that Bob your the only one tying yours to the floor pan as well I think thats a must for me. When putting these in how do you guys have the car sitting? On the wheels or jack stands????

 

[mopardude318]

Here's many photos of mine made out of 2"x3" x .120 bar stock.

Everything has been finish welded, so I don't have pics of everything being complete. My car is still in the build stages.

 

[72ScampTramp]

I like them mopardude318. You wouldnt happen have the measurements or a blueprint or template would you? That looks like what I need. My car is a 72 Scamp what is yours?

 

[mopardude318]

ahhh! Ya know, I don't have any measurements or a blueprint......What I did was take a measurement from the back of the torsion bar cross member, to where the rear of the frame starts. It will be around 50 - 56 inches. I just don't remember...My friend and I made these off the top of our head. Took 4 days total to design them, and install them...lol. We had the car sit level on jack stands. It had no engine, no tranny, no front suspension, and no rear axle...

 

[Burntorange70]

I have not welded them in yet but here is what I did made out of 2X3.

 

[72ScampTramp]

alright so the best way to do it is with the motor tranny and rear end out. thats easy enough since there all not getting used. So 3x2 with .120 wall.

 

[jensens ag]

2x3 .180 wall

 

[mopardude318]

alright so the best way to do it is with the motor tranny and rear end out. thats easy enough since there all not getting used. So 3x2 with .120 wall.

Hello. I'm not saying that is the best way to do it, I'm saying that is how I did it, because everything was already out of the car. There are many ways to do it, though... Some say to weld them in with everything in the car, sitting on it's own weight...But I don't know, only time will tell if I did it right...I hope everything lines up and the doors shut with a nice "click" once I put it all back together. lol...OR I could have possibly twisted the car, and welded them in wrong. LOL...Only time will tell...I'm pretty sure all is good though.

 

[jrlegacy23]

I have saved this on my favs. It is how to make your own subframe connectors. They don't weld to the floor, but they are cheap: http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/connectors.shtml

Here is a link to subframe connectors that weld to the floor, little more expensive though:
http://www.uscartool.com/Aframeconn/index.html

I guess it is all in personal preference.

 

[crackedback]

2x3 .120 wall is more than sufficient.

You can also trim out the highlighted section and stand the 2x3 upright inside the rail. Drill some holes in the sides and plug weld it along with welding along the top edge and where it enters the rear rail section.

 

[toolmanmike]

Here's some from US Cartool. They are harder to make but look like they came with the car. I think someone here made their own like these. If I find the post I will post it here. toolman
http://www.uscartool.com/Aframeconn/index.html

I typed us cartool in the fabo search box and came up with many posts about them. Here's one:http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=31536&highlight=us+cartool

 

[72ScampTramp]

The Uscartools ones look nice but not for 170 bucks. I was looking to save some coin and do my own. Since it looks like just about anything helps.. I think the 3x2 .120 wall is about the norm.

 

[FASTBACK340]

I bought mine off of e-Bay YEARS ago for about $90..... They are from Competition Engineering. What I like about them is they drop down a bit so you don't have to monkey around with the emergency brake cable or slicing the floor pan.

Here I'm test-fitting the connectors after trimming them. I had a friend weld them in the following weekend as a favor. I made sure they fit for him.

Here's Ricky from American Muffler in Baldwin, N.Y. doing what he does best.

Althought they do arch downward, they don't hang too low. Once they are POR-15'ed and undercoated you'll never see them.

The fuel line clears beautifully....

And the emergency brake cable doesn't have to be re-located as with some other brands.

** That bit of ugliness in front of the L/R leaf spring was created when I torched out an old ladder bar mount and put a small split in the frame. I'm a dick at times... Ricky fixed it. **


Now, is it worth it? I actually FELT the difference in my car. My car was assembled with new suspension, steering, brakes, and tires and now it feels like those new parts are finally bolted together!


BTW: I documented everything I did on this project. Just under 1,000 pictures on my Fotki account. I hope someone can use the info. :-D

 

[bjkadron]

Ideally you would want the 3"section vertical for the most benefit. but it will help either way as vintage uni-bodies have all the torsional stiffness of cooked linguine. Sad but true... I can feel my duster flexing on even low speed corners. I havn't made mine yet but They should help a lot. How much cutting are you wanting to do?

 

[72ScampTramp]

Well see Im asking this now as I have to do some work to the floors. So I was thinking now would be a great time to do the connectors.

 

[72dart_swinger]

Does anyone know if 2x2 tubing or 3x2 with the 2" side vertical would be tall enough to contact the bottom of the pan? I was thinking about connectors but i didn't want to cut up the floors, and i figured that welding to the bottom of the floor pan would be better than not touching the pan at all

 

[72ScampTramp]

I thinkit would depending on where you position them.

 

[needsaresto]

Does anyone know if 2x2 tubing or 3x2 with the 2" side vertical would be tall enough to contact the bottom of the pan? I was thinking about connectors but i didn't want to cut up the floors, and i figured that welding to the bottom of the floor pan would be better than not touching the pan at all

Your right,it would be stronger especially if the frame connecter has a "foot" like the original frame longitudinals. I also dig the idea of sectioning the end of the connecter so it slips into the longitutinal at least 6". A foot would be better as it would really strengthen the cowl area.

 

[blue missile]

I used 1 1/2" x 3" and sat it flat. The 3" fits over the frame rail in back and the 1 1/2" clears the E brake cable. The cost was under $20. I did make aset of 'mid-span' supports to lock in the floor pan.
Andrew

 

[rednesss]

I have a 20'+ stick of 2"x3" tubing that I was going to make frame connectors out of and your pics (blue missile) there just gave me an idea. Instead of welding the pan to the tubing, I'm going to prep the floor pan and then use some structural panel bond in between where they are close enough to touch. No welding on the floor pan means not having to mess with the already applied sound deadener on the inside.

Blue missile, what did you make those "mid span" supports out of?? 1/8" mild steel???

 

[needsaresto]

In theory not a bad idea. But dont know how to get around putting holes in your floor pan via the sheetmetal screws that are necessary while the panel adhesive cures. This is a MUST with adhesive. You could fill the holes in with plug welds but it comes down to the same thing.