Pieces of steel in cylinder??

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Righty Tighty said:
I'm gonna give you the benefit of the doubt and not think you were directly calling me a sad asswipe. Anyway, I'm still shopping around for a good shop that I feel like I can be loyal to, but that will take time. This first shop I found, let's just say there was a little bit of a language barrier. Really nice guy and I'm happy with the work he did, but for someone with lots of questions like me, I think I need to find a machinist who can converse with me a little more fluently in order to better understand my situation.



I read that initially, but I also don't have a completely stock build. I've got headers, and with this rebuild, I'll be adding a 4bbl 600 cfm carb, larger intake, and higher flow air cleaner. I'll be sticking with a mild cam when I replace the current one. I was thinking with those components, the X heads would be okay. That being said, I would really love some nice new aluminum heads, but gosh DANG they ain't cheap....!! I'm eager to figure out what my CR is once all is said and done.
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You're not the guy who's saying facts arent facts, you're good. Youre better to start asking the shop to advise you than request only this or that be done.
I've done this a long time, I've seen guys leave their foot on the air table pedal when cutting for seats and they fall out almost immediately. Be diligent and ask questions.
 
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George Jets said:
Just Great

You will get that 318 buildt and performing strong with those 302 Heads. Will work out so nice that you will not have to build that gas guzzling 360.
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Yeah that 360 is lame, all that power...who does it think it is, a bigger engine?? Lmao.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
You're not the guy who's saying facts arent facts, you're good. Youre better to start asking the shop to advise you than request only this or that be done.
I've done this a long time, I've seen guys leave their foot on the air table pedal when cutting for seats and they fall out almost immediately if not in the motor shortly after. Be diligent and ask questions.
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LOL. When I left a job to move where I am now, I trained my replacement.

I can't tell you how many times I caught him with his foot on the air pedal. I mean, how hard is it?? I can hear the air coming out from under the table.

So I made him get in the habit of grabbing the fixture and making him give it a good shove to make sure it was down on the table.

A couple of pinched and smashed fingers later he quit doing it.

Sadly, he made it about 4 months and then he was shown the door. Just couldn't get the concepts like what valve job to use with which head and why, even though I wrote it all down for him.
 
FWIW... another cam suggestion:
Lunati Voodoo Camshafts 10200701

Torquier right off idle, and will be a stronger right off idle than a stock 318 and will just get better from there. Needs some better valve springs than what comes on those reman heads.

The summit 6900 is an old slower ramp design; engine performance will be a bit weaker off-idle up to maybe 2500 RPM or thereabouts. The nice thing about it is that you can run it with easier valve springs. Easy to just put in and have few worries.

Either one, check P-V clearance once you get the short block together and a head temporarily set in place, using proper techniques. Both cams are lower lift so neither should be any issue, but no reason to take any chances.

OP, do you know what the rear gear is in that Scamp?
 
yellow rose said:
LOL. When I left a job to move where I am now, I trained my replacement.

I can't tell you how many times I caught him with his foot on the air pedal. I mean, how hard is it?? I can hear the air coming out from under the table.

So I made him get in the habit of grabbing the fixture and making him give it a good shove to make sure it was down on the table.

A couple of pinched and smashed fingers later he quit doing it.

Sadly, he made it about 4 months and then he was shown the door. Just couldn't get the concepts like what valve job to use with which head and why, even though I wrote it all down for him.
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You know exactly what I'm talking about.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
You're not the guy who's saying facts arent facts, you're good. Youre better to start asking the shop to advise you than request only this or that be done.
I've done this a long time, I've seen guys leave their foot on the air table pedal when cutting for seats and they fall out almost immediately if not in the motor shortly after. Be diligent and ask questions.
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please go back and read posts 371 and 372,,
and yellow rose. that goes for you double,
 
FWIW, OP, here is another cam to consider: Crane 693901.
Crane Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts 693901

Moderate ramps, still decent lift. Ought to be usable with 340 type springs, and you might even get away with stockers. Keeps DCR up to at least 7..... which is better than stock, so more torque at the lower RPM's. Mfr lists as 1200-4800 RPM for recommended 8-9.5 SCR (where you are at with this engine).
 
Quick question for those still following: With the engine removed, what else would you do maintenance-wise that would be easier before putting it back in? I see some bushings in the front end that need to be done, so that's a no brainer, and the front tranny seal is leaking. Anything else? I know I need to pull the instrument cluster (and/or dash) to fix my fuel/water temp gauges, would that be any easier with the motor out?
 
Rock auto along with the new front trans seal, has the torque converter repair sleeve just tap it on and you have a new sealing surface on the converter too.
 
Righty Tighty said:
Quick question for those still following: With the engine removed, what else would you do maintenance-wise that would be easier before putting it back in? I see some bushings in the front end that need to be done, so that's a no brainer, and the front tranny seal is leaking. Anything else? I know I need to pull the instrument cluster (and/or dash) to fix my fuel/water temp gauges, would that be any easier with the motor out?
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Look at the K member very close. Most look like they had a drunk monkey on a 10 day coke binge do the welding. It's nice to clean it up while the engine is out.

Also, if you haven't rebuilt the front end, now is the time to do it.

If the wiring harness has be cobbled together by the local meth head, clean that up while the engine is out.

Dare I say...black out the engine bay.





















Ok. Had to get away from that. Maybe your engine bay is blacked out and you don't like it. Time to put it back to body color.
 
yellow rose said:
Look at the K member very close. Most look like they had a drunk monkey on a 10 day coke binge do the welding. It's nice to clean it up while the engine is out.

Also, if you haven't rebuilt the front end, now is the time to do it.

If the wiring harness has be cobbled together by the local meth head, clean that up while the engine is out.

Dare I say...black out the engine bay.





















Ok. Had to get away from that. Maybe your engine bay is blacked out and you don't like it. Time to put it back to body color.
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K member, wiring harness, front end. Check. The engine bay is the original B5 blue, gonna keep it that way
 
Righty Tighty said:
I threw the old pistons out, had the shop press in new pistons. Just picked them up from the shop today, I'll have them take a close look at the connecting rods like you said.
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I never saw an answer, were the rods that were re hung on to new pistons good to go or did they need straightening / resizing?
Especially the rod that took the pounding initially from the dropped seat, curious to see if it was damaged.
thanks
 
my68barracuda said:
I never saw an answer, were the rods that were re hung on to new pistons good to go or did they need straightening / resizing?
Especially the rod that took the pounding initially from the dropped seat, curious to see if it was damaged.
thanks
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I haven’t had a chance to take them in. Clocking 108 hours this past week at work...taking next week off. I’ll take the rods in then. The good news is I marked each rod and made sure I marked the front, that way I know where they were to begin with.
 
  • Righty Tighty said:
    I haven’t had a chance to take them in. Clocking 108 hours this past week at work...taking next week off. I’ll take the rods in then. The good news is I marked each rod and made sure I marked the front, that way I know where they were to begin with.
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They have a thrust face that faces the rod next to it. It's the larger flat side/face of the big end of the rod.
You can mix n match then as long as they all have their thrust facing each other and keep the numbers facing out/oil holes towards opposite bank.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
They have a thrust face that faces the rod next to it. It's the larger flat side/face of the big end of the rod.
You can mix n match then as long as they all have their thrust facing each other and keep the numbers facing out/oil holes towards opposite bank.
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Good to know, thanks. I didn’t think the dimensions were different on any of them, but it seemed logical to put them back exactly the way I found them.
 
If you disassemble the piston/rod assemblies to straighten the rods or resize them,then you might as well install bushings at the top so you can take the pistons off them, without a press. And then, well then, sometimes they don't all come in at 6.123. Which can be useful to set the deck heights; now you can put them just about anywhere. But then, not all pistons are machined for pin retainers.
But I kindof think yur past that now,anyway.
 
Dan s said:
Any progress on the motor
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Slow but steady, been working a ton to pay for the parts I’m buying. I think I’ve got just about all I need except for the time to do it. Block is honed, new pistons (taking the rods in to a new shop and see what he thinks), heads, springs, water pump, oil pump, cam, double roller timing gear set, and all the little goodies like gaskets that go with this. I bought a pushrod gauge to make sure the ones I bought are the correct length, since I foolishly bought them before I knew I was buying new heads.

I took a week off to start prepping the block for paint, etc. On that note, how long should I let the paint cure before moving on to assembly? I assume it depends on the paint, and there’s probably half a dozen threads here about that...but is there a general rule of thumb?

I bought a plastigauge for the crank bearings and a degree wheel for the cam. If you would’ve asked me before starting this, I would’ve said to just reassemble the motor in reverse of how it came apart. I’m grateful for this forum and the wisdom here, I’ve learned of so many important steps that I would have missed and likely ended in catastrophe. So if anyone reading this is like me and still learning, ask questions and listen to the answers given. Do research and double check yourself to be sure you’re doing the right thing. And...DO NOT HURRY. Take your time...
 
I might need some clarification. I’m going to paint the block and heads, are you saying you don’t paint them until they’re mounted? I was thinking to mask all the mating surfaces, etc, and paint the block and heads separately, then assemble. Is that not correct?
 
I'm lazy; I slam it all together on the engine stand, turn it upside down, jam some paper towls into the exhaust ports,and then splash some paint on it. Then rotate it rightside up and finish it. Since the engine lift-plate is on, I mask nothing.
Your way is just extra work, and yur gonna get it all full of fingerprints,lol.
Either way is fine.
 
That’s interesting. You’re a numbers guy and seem to know what you’re talking about, so for some reason I would’ve thought you’d be more meticulous. It’s kind of a relief to know that paint isn’t that big of a deal, I guess.
 
Righty Tighty said:
I might need some clarification. I’m going to paint the block and heads, are you saying you don’t paint them until they’re mounted? I was thinking to mask all the mating surfaces, etc, and paint the block and heads separately, then assemble. Is that not correct?
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I usually assemble the whole engine minus carb and exhaust manifolds/headers, then paint...
 
Righty Tighty said:
That’s interesting. You’re a numbers guy and seem to know what you’re talking about, so for some reason I would’ve thought you’d be more meticulous. It’s kind of a relief to know that paint isn’t that big of a deal, I guess.
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If you save the old gaskets, like the carb base gasket, and exhaust manifold gaskets, fuel pump gasket, use them to block the sealing surfaces when you paint the engine...
 
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