Unfortunately the only gaskets that came off in one piece were the head gaskets and exhaust manifold gaskets. All others were pretty well stuck and brittle, came off in bits and pieces. I like that idea though.
Pieces of steel in cylinder??
- Thread starter Righty Tighty
- Start date
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Unfortunately the only gaskets that came off in one piece were the head gaskets and exhaust manifold gaskets. All others were pretty well stuck and brittle, came off in bits and pieces. I like that idea though.
Then use masking tape or duct tape, whatever you have that's handy...
But maybe save any old gaskets for future project painting...
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Couple coats of primer on the block, then she’ll get a few helpings of Chrysler blue in the morning. Swapping out the stock springs for some Comp Cams 901 springs while the primer sets. Valve springs aren’t fun!
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Looks like time for safety glasses!
Are you gonna actually run those exhaust rotators?
Well crap. I know you wouldn't have said something if there wasn't an issue there. I looked up rotator valve springs, and seems they won't hold up to the higher pressure springs. Am I right? Those rotators came on the 302 heads, and I did notice they were different.
**** can um. Just run regular retainers with your new springs.
Check. Straight to the **** can they will go. Thanks for pointing that out.
gzig5
Well-Known Member
I'd definitely install a set of reinforced motor mounts at this time. Mity Mount, Mag Mount, if you are creative you can make your own. You're going to be making more torque on the OEM mounts are pathetic in my opinion.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
You have the best spring compressor for a home shop right there and you ain't using it!!!!
That big C clamp is a spring compressor. Run by a local machine shop that will have some hardened spring cups (you want the cup with the ID of 1.675) and get one.
Then you can either cut the end off the C clamp and weld the cup on, or weld the cup on the C clamp and drill a hole in the clamp so there is room for the valve stem to go through.
I'll go snap a picture of mine and post it here. What you are using is crapola and deadly.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Here is my valve spring compressor.
You can see the hardened valve spring seat that I used to weld on. I just trimmed off the clamp and welded it right on
Make sure when you weld the spring seat on there, it lines up with the top of the clamp. Otherwise it pushes on the retainer sideways and it can let the retainer out. And then the real show starts
This is what it looks like from the other side.
I've done springs that were over 400 on the seat and close to 1200 over the nose with this tool. It's never failed either.
Much better than what you are doing. And much safer.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
I had a compressed valve spring slip out of one of those, flew across the garage and put a dent in the wall. That was the last time I used it, bought a real spring compressor, the valve spring compressor that clamp onto the sides of the spring are dangerous. You want something like what Yellow Rose is showing, you want the compressed spring contained.
They’re junk! I got a loaner from the local chain auto parts store, didn’t work worth a crap. Popped off every time. Then I bought a lever-type tool, didn’t work either. Finally ended up with this one, it works okay with the c-clamp holding it on, but just like you guys are saying, it scares the hell outta me. Maybe I’ll go with Yellow Rose’s suggestion and make my own. I’m just not keen on sacrificing one of my good welding clamps. They ain’t cheap...
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
not exactly the same, the one I bought looks similar this one,, $25.00 shipped
https://www.amazon.com/EX-ELECTRONIX-EXPRESS-Compressor-78VSPRINGC8/dp/B002GQEZH0/ref=sr_1_16?crid=3TVAVYBQE2K46&keywords=valve+spring+compressor+under+$30&qid=1569864444&s=gateway&sprefix=valve+spring+compressor&sr=8-16
May not be stiff enough for springs with way high closed pressure, works fine with the valve spring that I use that have 300+ closed pressure.
The one righty tighty is using is for on the car use. Yellow Rose, your's looks handy for home made. I have a Lisle 16750 for on the car use. (set it once and it works for all) and a 44300 for on the bench. I always wanted one for rocker shafts but with those you have to remove the shafts anyway and use a dummy shaft or unload the original shaft.
I have two of the big c clamp style like your second picture, but they are OLD and HEAVY and work very well. I won't buy anything like that new because it's all junk.
I use a 40 year old Proto C clamp style, liner up and push the lever.
Here’s what I came up with. Instead of grinding down one of my expensive F clamps, I found a large C clamp I’d be willing to part with.
The seat on the screw of the clamp wasn’t large enough to mate with the valves nicely, so I used a hole saw for the plate steel, then welded it to the seat of the screw on the clamp.
Let’s see if it works, can’t be worse than the POS that clamps to the valve spring.
The seat on the screw of the clamp wasn’t large enough to mate with the valves nicely, so I used a hole saw for the plate steel, then welded it to the seat of the screw on the clamp.
Let’s see if it works, can’t be worse than the POS that clamps to the valve spring.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Dry fit, because I couldn’t resist. I think the sealing surfaces on the intake might need some material removed.
I was wondering the same, maybe it’ll change once there are gaskets in place. To me it looks like the intake may have been shaved, but of course this is a very loose dry fit.
Yep, hardened exhaust valve seat. Some theories as to why it fell out are poor installation or overheating. I personally think it was due to the engine getting so hot from overheating issues I was having, and the seat contracted more than the bore it was sitting in after cooling, and fell out upon start up after fixing the overheating problem. I very well could be way off base, though.
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