68383GTS
Well-Known Member
Narrowing a rear end and welding on spring perches. What should the pinion angle be at?
Under a load.Pinion angle should be the same as the transmission angle, but in the opposite direction.
Under a load.
treblig
From everything I've read the pinion will rise (pinion U joint) under acceleration at which time it will no longer be parallel. It's supposed to be parallel to minimize vibrations under a load?? You'll never get a vibration sitting still.I dont know why that gets thrown around. The spec is static. Read the Mopar Suspension manual. It's all there.
From everything I've read the pinion will rise (pinion U joint) under acceleration at which time it will no longer be parallel. It's supposed to be parallel to minimize vibrations under a load?? You'll never get a vibration sitting still.
Treblig
l will have to check but I think my new springs are ss springs.Pinion angle should be the same as the transmission angle, but in the opposite direction.
l will have to check but I think my new springs are ss springs.
I `ve got mine 2-3 degrees down. Always have and always will. Levels out on acceleration. Never a problem.On a factory 8.75 A body rear, the perches set pinion at up 5*.
When installing them myself, I never use the factory setting. I usually weld them on anywhere from 0 to 2* up depending on application.
On a street driver, you usually don't want more than 3* down compared to tailshaft when installed in the car. Driveshaft has nothing to do with it the way I go about it.
Sorry for the high jack. When mentioned of 5*-7* down. Is it from the drive shaft angle or trans angle? Here's my situation. My Trans is slanted 2* down. I messed up and welded my perches with the pinion leveled out, with perches 5* down. I probably should have welded my perches so the pinion faced up 2* right? that would have phased the pinion angle with the transmission angle. So by my beer math I am negative 7* from transmission angle? I'm going to wait until I get my springs installed and see what it looks like under my car. But I will admit i messed it up and most likely be cutting them off and redoing it. It's just a street cruzer.
if your trans is 2 deg down.rear pinion shoud be set at 1 deg down,that way under drive conditions the rear pinion will rise up 2-3 deg.making them parallel (sp)
A 4 degree shim is totally acceptable.....I always buy the type of shim that has a hole for the spring center bolt that way I know for sure tat it won't move or slide out but sometimes it means that you have to buy a longer spring bolt??? The pin for the perch should still be there for alignment.If that is the case do you guys suggest I cut the perches off or do you think a 4* shim would work. Its possible the shim may be to large and not allow for the locating pin to seat on perches. This is just for planning purposes as I still need to order my new 6 Leaf +1 EPSO's and see how the -5* looks before I make any changes but chances are I will need the shims or re-weld some new perches.