Yeah, a Toyota with most likely near zero overlap has a lot in common with an American V8 with a lot of overlap.
Unreal.
Apparently according to your copy and paste ****, 22 initial is impossible to do without MV hooked up.
Again, nonsense.
Ported Vac or Manifold Vac
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Yeah, a Toyota with most likely near zero overlap has a lot in common with an American V8 with a lot of overlap.
Unreal.
Apparently according to your copy and paste ****, 22 initial is impossible to do without MV hooked up.
Again, nonsense.
Again, just bullshit from you Turk. Where did I say 22* initial is impossible without MVA???????? My engine, has locked timing, at 35*..& that is done without MVA. I have stated this more than once on this forum.
In post #15, I stated that a ' few more degrees' of timing on a tock or near stock engine will help....not insane amounts as you claim. Stop telling LIES.
In post #15, I stated that a ' few more degrees' of timing on a tock or near stock engine will help....not insane amounts as you claim. Stop telling LIES.
I looked at your highlighted quote. You posted the bullshit. Own it.
Now go gap your plugs at .060 and lose power.
stroker402
1968 dart GTS convertible
my 273 commando runs best with ported vac. there is vid of a guy showing what happens when you tap the gas with manifold vac and the gauge will drop to 0 and bound back up every time creating a slight bog hesitate.. not good!!
I 90% of the time don't use vacuum advances... 
.028-.030 for me, it's all about the kernel, me and PBR had a good discussion about plug gap awhile back during one of the other ignition threads.
He liked a .028 gap
I 90% of the time don't use vacuum advances...
I don't know, but your mileage would be better and the engine would run cleaner
Depending on the year, ported vacuum is the only option.
surprised nobody's mentioned HEI yet.
y'all are slipping.
y'all are slipping.
Do you have a link to the video?
Yeah, but Which Oil should I use if I switch to MVA?
stroker402
1968 dart GTS convertible
I’ll say this.
If you get to the point where you NEED MV to make the engine idle you are far better off getting an programmable ignition.
If you add MV to fix an idle issue you will compromise the timing curve somewhere else.
If you get to the point where you NEED MV to make the engine idle you are far better off getting an programmable ignition.
If you add MV to fix an idle issue you will compromise the timing curve somewhere else.
I thought you were a 0/20 weight TORCO guy
Only when not using manifold vacuum at idle.
Manifold vacuum at idle I go straight to non detergent 30. If I’m going caveman I’m going full caveman
...and where do I mount my HEI module?
There you go…stirring the pot…we caint take you anywhere.
a pontiac engineer told me that the best place for that is directly on top of the heat cross over of the intake manifold.
i believe they made a special bracket to mount that and the molded hose for manifold vacuum as a courtesy to the end users. GM part number and all.
LS&S
Well-Known Member
I emailed you. Regard Cooked Alternator and Voltage Regulator also damaged. Thanks!
33IMP
Well-Known Member
70 comments? Did nobody say "try em both, see which one you like, and go with that" ???
Yeah. I did. A long time ago.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
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stroker402
1968 dart GTS convertible
dodgemahal
Well-Known Member
I'm no expert; kind of a slant 6 newbie. I'm here to learn and I appreciate ya'll for that. So let me tell you that I have a totally stock 1973 Dart with a factory stock slant. I have it connected to manifold vacuum and it seems to run perfectly at idle. I haven't had it on the road because it's apart for a restoration. Am I on the right track leaving the vac advance connected to the carbs manifold port? Oh, I'll do plenty of testing once it's back on the road, but curious to know what you guys think about this as of now.
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