Positive Deck 318

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You can still use the pistons that come out of the deck with a closed chamber head. You just mill down the quench pad for zero deck and then reduce the dome in the same way to get the compression where you want it if you have to.

Oh absolutely, depends on the piston too of course.

But to me, that falls under "complicated". If it's an engine you already have you've got to tear it down and have the pistons machined. If its pistons you don't have yet, then it's an added expense compared to buying flat tops. For a high dollar, high horsepower build I can totally see how that could be necessary/useful. But if I'm putting together a street engine it's something I'd be trying not to have to do.

But I'm no expert on building engines. I've put a few of mine together but mine were always just supposed to be fun street engines, nothing crazy.
 
You used the KISS method which is smart.
I like easy math as well. Considering you can get a 9.6-1 from a 360 with a stock head and a flat top zero deck piston, (KB-107) I’d consider that enough to get a street bound cam in the right area. Closed chambered heads like an Edelbrock 63cc chamber, you go up 1 point to 10.6-1.


Going from a 038 to a 050 gasket will only drop it about .3 of a point, but that may help solve a pump gas issue if your limited on octane. Also over boring the engine will increase the ratio as well.

Same deal with 318’s, though there a little harder to get a big compression ratio out of. Hence the domed piston option. For the street, a flat top is all you need.
 
. I've got some ideas on my own, but I'm wanting to know if someone else has figured out a way for doing it on the cheap. Getting some piston volume into the chamber
I agree, the numbers on the cheap, are hard to reach with the big-port heads. I haven't done it. I have all the cores to do it. But because of the expense-to-fun ratio being so much higher than with a 360, I nixed the idea.
You might like to work the formulas backwards to see what falls out.
For instance;
A nice FTH street cam to run in a 318 might have an Ica of 62*
Say you already have your big-port iron heads at 72cc.
And you will run a 6.3cc gasket
say you want to get the Q down to .040 which will allow you to run 165psi on best gas.
Plug those into the calculator as best as you can, then start whittling the Scr down/up until the calculator spits out the 165psi.
That will give you an Scr number to target. Now all you have to do is shape your piston and place it at the correct distance from the deck to achieve the Required Scr
Here's an example;
Static compression ratio of 10:1.
Effective stroke is 2.61 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.09:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 161.14
PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 121

In this example, I inputted the parameters of 3.91/3.315/62* Ica/ and 900ft elevation. Then I played with the Scr to eventually get 161psi which was close enough to the target 165psi.
So the target Scr is 10/1
using the formula; Scr =(CV+cv)/cv where
CV is the swept volume of 652cc, and Scr =10, we get
10= (652+cv)/cv which is rearranged to cv = 652/10 minus1 =652/9=72.44cc
Which is the required TOTAL chamber volume. Therefore
72.44 less (72+6.3)= minus 5.855cc for the deck volume.
Now you just have to figure out how to manipulate the deck-height and piston crown, to get it, but when the Q goes to a bad spot, you gotta abort the exercise.
So then, because of the Q-problem, you gotta start with a reverse-dome piston that pokes a dome up on the far side of the piston, and whittle it down to fit. Then re-figure for the net -5.855 cc.
KB's solution is the Step-D cup piston
Now, if it becomes impossible or very expensive to make a piston fit, then you shave the heads to a new number and start over.
If you need to fine-tune it; you can play with the Ica a couple of degrees, or with the head gasket, but that will change the Q. And finally, you may have to settle for less cylinder pressure and cover the bottom-end powerloss with a higher stall.
fun with numbers

But if you find a piston that looks promising, and looks like it will provide an appropriate Q, you can work from the decks up.
One thing nobody talks about is slightly longer rod. I mean if yur buying rods anyway......
 
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So, in other words, it’s easier to ether use the flat top or the small domed piston KB has rod the 318. Use clay to determine the actual distance between the head and piston and then purchase a gasket to clear…..

How does one find a cam with a ICA of 62*’s?

It’s easy to do the calculations for this number. But actually finding a cam that has this perfect spec???
 
So, in other words, it’s easier to ether use the flat top or the small domed piston KB has rod the 318. Use clay to determine the actual distance between the head and piston and then purchase a gasket to clear…..

How does one find a cam with a ICA of 62*’s?

It’s easy to do the calculations for this number. But actually finding a cam that has this perfect spec???

Exactly.

Again, if you're building a high dollar race engine you may want to do a bunch of custom stuff to get every single tenth, hundredth, or thousandth of a whatever perfect. But for a street car, if you can get "close enough" with off the shelf parts, why would you spend exponentially more for custom stuff? I mean, we're talking about an engine that is going to end up running pump gas and somewhere between 9 to 9.5:1 compression. That's easily achievable with off the shelf parts and little to no custom work.
 
Exactly! My 360 (Actually just gave it to my son for his ‘91-W 150) is .030 over and has the KB-107’s down .020 in the hole. With the Edelbrock heads on top and a .038 head gasket, it’s roughly 10.25-1. More than enough for a good size street cam and it will run on cheap swill. No race gas needed ever.
 
Thanks for all the replies! I'm showing that with the K-B 167's and a 9.6 deck that the pistons are .012 below deck. I've seen K-Bs listing for 318 deck height is lower than 9.6 (9.585), but I've always seen factory deck height higher than listed.

Did your machinist say how much had to be taken off the decks? What year of block are you working with there?
I asked them to take 0.005" off to clean them up, did a dummy assembly and took another 0.005" off the right hand bank to even the two sides out.
It was +0.040" when I tore it down so I'm not sure how far it has been decked previously.
It is a 1973 block, casting number 2535030.
 

Screw it man. Just build a forged piston 7.5:1 318, put the 340 cam in it, 360 heads and stock valves, Air Gap, 750DP, BIG tube headers........and a put a 300HP plate shot in it. Over and DONE. Puck all that other noise.
 
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