Power for a slant

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Thumpower

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I have a 64 Dart GT, just bought recently. The slant is pretty tired. I was thinking of swapping to a LA series V8, but now I wonder if it is possible to build a warmed up slant capable of, say, 200 hp and still retain a nice, smooth idle with good street performance. Don't intend to race it , but want a bit more than the stock slanty can give me.
 
wheel or crank hp? 200 wheel would get you in the 13's and is streetable, but not anywhere near stock. That said my 68 gets 20mpg on the drive from Phx to Vegas which is all uphill.

but what it sounds like you would want is to rebuild the motor, mill the block say .100 to start and then see what the chamber volume comes to. I would shoot for like 9-9.3:1 static compression. Get a small reground cam from Oregon, i would say something like 210-220* .050 cam duration with MAX lift on a 110 LSA. That with a 2 or small 4 barrel swap, larger exh and edge converter would really wake that baby up. You can do enough head work lol... I would have new hardened exhaust seats installed with the stock exh valve, then install a 1.7-1.75 intake valve, everything blended and port matched.
 
Fuel injection might be a way to get smooth idle plus performance. MPFI requires customizing an intake (or head like Pishta). TBI would be easier. Not many slant apps, but should be same setup as a small V-8.
 
As the moparkid says, keep the cam's duration mild and the lift high to help the engine breath and the idle will still be decent. Higher CR will make an engine really lively off idle.
 
For 200HP in a mild slant I think that you're talking super or turbo-charging. That's doable, but probably not where you want to take it. Run with 805's suggestions and see how that works for you.

I'm slowly adapting a GM Throttle Body Fuel Injection system to my 170. The wiring isn't too bad. I'm two big steps away from trying it out, so likely won't happen for another couple of months.
 
Just drop in a really worn out 318 and slap a 4 bbl carb on it, that'll be about the same as a mildly hopped up six.
 
Just drop in a really worn out 318 and slap a 4 bbl carb on it, that'll be about the same as a mildly hopped up six.

then he has to buy
motor and still maybe rebuild it
transmission and still maybe rebuild it
buy conversion mounts
buy new radiator
splice wiring for SB locations
Exhaust
etc etc etc.

for all that cost he can have that motor built.
 
200 hp is easily gotten from a 225 slant six.....concidering we had stock slants with 160 hp....they had 9.2:1 CR, 340cfm Carter 2bbl, points ignition, etc.
300 hp however, is a lot more harder to get....N/A that is.
 
200 hp is easily gotten from a 225 slant six.....concidering we had stock slants with 160 hp....they had 9.2:1 CR, 340cfm Carter 2bbl, points ignition, etc.
300 hp however, is a lot more harder to get....N/A that is.

that must have been nice! what did they do for the comp bump, different pistons with a taller comp height? As far as 300 NA thats where i am at the crank, and its streetable. I plan on bumping that up another 50hp and that MIGHT be the edge for this engine, Next go around i think i can hit 300 wheel and keep it streetable with a normal head, if my other stuff comes thru maybe alot more
:burnout:
 
200 net crank hp would be just fine. As I remember, originally, advertised gross was 145, but we all know just how much bs that was, and how the ratings sank in '72. But 200 net would give me the equivalent of at least 225 advertised which puts in the ball park of a mild stock 327 chevy. Might surprise a few folks with a nice sleeper like that!
 
The problem is, unless your trying to prove a point, you can get the same fuel mileage and at least twice the power with a v8.
 
This is always a fun one, and I have a hopped up slant car. Get a junkyard 318, add a 4bbl intake, Holley 750, and a set of Hookers. You will dust 9 out of 10 slants out there. Lol
 
deck block .100, reground Oregon Camshaft and super six size 2.25" headpipe. 350cfm Holley 2bbl and 3.2x gears. EFI wont get you 200 but itll get you a butter smooth idle and a much cleaner exhaust.
 
that must have been nice! what did they do for the comp bump, different pistons with a taller comp height? As far as 300 NA thats where i am at the crank, and its streetable. I plan on bumping that up another 50hp and that MIGHT be the edge for this engine, Next go around i think i can hit 300 wheel and keep it streetable with a normal head, if my other stuff comes thru maybe alot more
:burnout:

I will have to go through my genuine workshop manual for the 160hp donk and see what was different......:glasses7:
 
I will have to go through my genuine workshop manual for the 160hp donk and see what was different......:glasses7:

if you could that would be awesome! can you still buy the pistons for that motor in your neck of the woods? i bet its the pistons...
 
Problem with making power with a slant six is the head it doesn't flow too much air and the numbers I've seen with them fully ported are about as much as a stock 318 heads. And stock 318 heads have a problem of making 1 hp per cubic inch and a six has two less intake ports.
 
if you could that would be awesome! can you still buy the pistons for that motor in your neck of the woods? i bet its the pistons...

Weeeellllllll......all I could find is that the CR is 8.4:1, and the cam is different.

160HP 145HP

244* Vs 240* Intake.....and

244* Vs 236* Exhaust.

It says the compressed head gasket thickness is 0.022".
Oil pressure is 45 to 60 psi @ 1,000 rpm.
It also says the head is made from Chrome alloy cast iron.
This manual is from 1967.

Hope this helps.....a bit.
 
Weeeellllllll......all I could find is that the CR is 8.4:1, and the cam is different.

160HP 145HP

244* Vs 240* Intake.....and

244* Vs 236* Exhaust.

It says the compressed head gasket thickness is 0.022".
Oil pressure is 45 to 60 psi @ 1,000 rpm.
It also says the head is made from Chrome alloy cast iron.
This manual is from 1967.

Hope this helps.....a bit.

hmm ours say "8.4:1" also lol
 
I'm sure I saw somewhere where a 225 had 9.2 or 9.3:1 CR.....maybe it was the VF Pacer ???
I think they had about 175 hp.
I know they had different points to the others....standard points were 12 oz. spring, and the Pacers were a 17 oz. spring.
I may have to find the other manual that covers the VF.
 
Yes, the VF Pacer had the same cam as the 160hp, more compression, and a larger exhaust.
The head was a different part number to the 145 hp and the 160 hp.
The pistons are the same part number for all.
 
Yes, the VF Pacer had the same cam as the 160hp, more compression, and a larger exhaust.
The head was a different part number to the 145 hp and the 160 hp.
The pistons are the same part number for all.

do you by chance have pics and part numbers for these heads? I would be curious in one!
 
The part number in the book is 3423562, but that wont be the casting number.
I have 2 Pacers, so I may have to pull a valve cover to find the casting number.
 
OK....I found it....the Pacer engines were 9.2:1 CR.
There was even a low CR engine, had 7.5:1.
The cams had 0.395" valve lift.
The free length of the springs is shorter.....1.92".
They had less seat pressure, as well as full open pressure.
 
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