Preferred carburetor for mild 360?

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is that performer a quad jet intake? i dont know if it is but when you put a 4 barrel carb on a quad jet intake you need a spacer/adapter that made a huge difference when i put one on

i run a eddy 600 n seems fine but i have never ran anything else sooooooo
 
I run Edelbrock on my cars. I never have problems. They hold tune and do what I ask of them. On my slightly built 318 with the same XE268H cam I ran a 600 cfm, though I did bolt on an 800 cfm before I pulled the motor and it really woke it up, but man, did it run rich! It made my eyes water to stand behind it! Now I have a 408 stroker and run the 800 Eddy on it. It runs great, but it's still probably too much carb. I love my Edelbrocks, but am thinking of trying the Holley 750 DP I have on the shelf just to see if it makes a difference. I really think I am over carbed now and want to scale back. If I like it, I am going to modify a Holley for E85.
 
Cal_gecko said:
Thanks.. she came back home tonight... I'm gonna check the plugs tomorrow, and then see about the initial timing too. Still running a little rough at idle...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DnnfExmGvE&feature=youtu.be

This was when we pulled her in the garage tonight after coming home from 5 months at the body shop.
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Looks good. Timing sounds waaaaaay slow. Need to work the distributor over. Nothing you ever do to the carb will make it idle good until you get the timing dialed in like we discussed above.
 
Thanks for all the help here, guys... I really appreciate it. it's all a little overwhelming to me, ... I know cameras, photography, and can talk f-stops, lighting ratios, color balance and bit depth all day long... when it comes to something like tuning an engine like this - I guess I'm lost. I'll put the plugs back in and see where the initial timing and total timing are currently at, and then I'll check the metering rods at idle to ensure they're in the 'down' position once I get the timing set. I wish I could hire one of you guys to come over and help me nail this all down!
 
Don't even need to drive it to sort out the idle. Crank in the initial to about 16 and the carb may clean up a bunch, increase vacuum and hold those currently fluttering metering rods down. You'll need to reset the idle speed and adjust your idle mix screws, pretty basic stuff.

Once you get that done, you'll need to figure out the total number. Do one piece at a time and it's not bad.
 
cranked up the timing until the idle picked up... and then turned the idle down... managed to get it to sorta idle, around 950rpm ... according to timing marks, it's at about 30 degrees advance (with all vac lines disconnected and plugged) in order for it to idle at 950... and it barely wants to do it... hand over the primaries (not sealing them, but restricting some airflow) gets the idle up significantly. Can't find any vacuum leaks though.
 
Anyone wanna buy a freshly painted 71 Dart in GY3? Needs engine tuning and reassembly, LOL





<kidding... said simply out of frustration>
 
I don;t understand. Is crackedback's timing a sticky? that nobody looks at?

You have to start with the timing; now it is a pain, if you have never done it before. Read what cracked has said; it works.
 
Cal_gecko said:
cranked up the timing until the idle picked up... and then turned the idle down... managed to get it to sorta idle, around 950rpm ... according to timing marks, it's at about 30 degrees advance (with all vac lines disconnected and plugged) in order for it to idle at 950... and it barely wants to do it... hand over the primaries (not sealing them, but restricting some airflow) gets the idle up significantly. Can't find any vacuum leaks though.
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Sounds like the added timing helped but keep in mind that turning the dist. not only added timing at idle but also at wide open throttle so it's probably at 50 degrees total timing or higher now which can damage the engine. What needs done is the timing advance mechanism down inside the dist. needs limited to keep the total timing down to 34-35 degrees. That's done by welding up the slots. If you don't have the capability to do that you need to find someone to do it for you. Wish you were close cause we could do it real easy. And if choking down the carb like you did makes the idle better it's running lean. Try turning out the idle mixture adjustments out a little at a time until it idles best. Do it with the car in drive and the park brake on. Chock the wheels if the parking brake don't work good. Your making progress.
 
He's got a boat load of issues that are manifesting in this thing. Vacuum leaks, fuel pressure too high, timing, a slipping balancer, and god knows what else. Oh It's got a vacuum leak somewhere. The engine is hunting at idle.

Have to solve the fuel pressure issue first (why I dislike ede's), then vacuum leaks, then timing in my opinion.

I'd find a good carb , preferably something that can handle the fuel pressure, that you know works and transplant it on the car.
 
Here's a video I took yesterday of the idle, showing tach and vacuum gauge... this was how it was idling without me touching the throttle... this was with the timing marker showing about 30 degrees of advance (all vac lines disconnected and plugged)...
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJRcvtnCPbc"]More Tuning - YouTube[/ame]

Today, I took the carb to a carb shop to see about having them rebuild it... they took a look at it and convinced me it didn't need to be rebuilt, that the eddy carbs hardly ever have vacuum leaks anywhere except at the base plate.. they did agree that it sounded like the carb was running too lean, so I bought some thinner metering rods to richen it up a bit. Gonna give that a whirl tomorrow and see if it helps. I've got someone else sending me a new harmonic balancer, since it sounds like mine has slipped and is not accurate....

I have double and tripled checked my firing order.. it's ok. I'm gonna go out and pull a plug or two to see how they look from the way it was running yesterday and this morning... and I'll see how they look after changing the metering rods tomorrow.
 
Rods aren't going to do anything at idle. It's got 15" of vacuum which will hold the rod pistons down.

The mixture screws on the front are what need to be adjusted at idle. Have you turned them at all since this began or just been running them at the baseline 1.5 out setting. Turn them out 1/2 turn to see if it helps. Those carbs are notoriously lean OOTB on cruise/WOT, but, you didn't buy it new so who knows.
 
Does it die if you run them all the way in?

It should!
 
crackedback said:
Does it die if you run them all the way in?

It should!
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Yes, it does..

I just pulled four of the plugs to take a look at them after running it at "idle" (and I use that term loosely, based on the fact that it's BARELY idling)... different readings on some of them... uploading photos, will post in a moment...
 
Get ready for some big images.

The first 4 images are the same plug...

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Then some shots of a couple others....

untitled-shoot-008.jpg


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looks like one plug shows too much total timing 'if u go by the light stripe near the tangs base....'r u running vac adance?'

if u go by the base ring for heat...plugs not hot enough.

Just follow one set of advice for now so that it doesnt get confusing.
 
Cal_gecko said:
I've got a 360 in my 71 Dart, Comp Cams XE268H, Edelbrock Performer intake, Pertronix ignition, MSD 6AL, headers, and it currently has an Edelbrock Peformer 600cfm carb (model 1405). From what I've heard, the Edelbrock carbs are NOT the preferred carbs. I've never had the car on the road, so I don't have any experience with how the carb works in real world driving.

Some of my friends who drive Chevys have been telling me that Holley's are easier to maintain and tune for performance...

What do you guys use? This will be a mild build for fun and occasional track use (just to see how it does).. I want something reliable and easy to tune..

Thanks
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I like Holleys for a few reasons, but mostly because they are very tunable without the bending, drilling, etc, associated with other types. I have not had good success with Edelbrock carbs on engines with more radical cams. I think the best Holley for the money is the 600 CFM list #1850. The 3310, 750 cfm Holley is good as well but I've felt that its a better fuel economy, trading all out performance. Either is great for a mild cam like you are using and shouldn't need much for modification. The biggest mistake people make is putting a Holley on an engine with a very large cam and not knowing how a Holley works. I suggest if you do buy a Holley, just buy a "do it yourself" book on Holleys to get an understanding of basic tuning.

Be careful of unproven used carburators.
 
Not starting the big Holley Eddy debate here. To say throwing a Holley on it is going to be like waving a magic wand, and the car will mysterically run like a champ is false. Any carb you put on it will need to be tunned correctly. Any carb.

And we don't even no for sure that this problem is carb related. I've seen pages of so called carb issues on this site for it to be something as minor as a cracked dist cap.

Sounds like there is a few issues here that need to be resolved before we blame it on the famed piece of **** Eddy.

By the way, I run a 600 Eddy,XE268 in my 360. And that car is a quick little ****.
 
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