Pro Touring 10K

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HemiDenny said:
are you talking about the thing that looks like a rural newspaper box (mailbox)?

(reminder....friends love to bust balls)
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yep. we might have to cut the runner length shorter on the mail box. It looks stupid with out the throttle body plate welded on the front of it. I agree mail box. LOL all the guys at the shop all ready beat you to the punch line on that one.
I left the front plate off thinking I can flip the throttle body upside down and run the throttle cable under the mail box plenum to give that uncluttered clean look.
 
72bluNblu said:
I really don't think that intake is going to get that hot. Definitely not hot enough to boil brake fluid.

This isn't a v8 with the intake sitting right over the top of the engine. The exhaust is on the other side of the head, there's a good runner distance separating the main body of the intake from the head, and everything is aluminum (including the head!) with good air space all around it. Just look at the surface area of the intake in contact with the head and compare that to a small block intake, there's a big difference. The runners on my Eddy AirGap don't even get that hot, and it's still sitting right over the top of the engine, collecting all of that heat.
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I think the concern here is a turbo car so the air will be heated coming into the intake. From what I have read air temp should be no more than 180 degrees. Yes the turbo will be on the other side of the head.
 
prrc said:
I think the concern here is a turbo car so the air will be heated coming into the intake. From what I have read air temp should be no more than 180 degrees. Yes the turbo will be on the other side of the head.
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Yeah but even if the air going through the manifold is 180* the manifold won't be much, if any, hotter than that. Especially with thin aluminum like that, it won't be able to hold much heat with that much air moving through it. You don't have the mass like a cast aluminum intake does to retain heat. And 180* sure as heck isn't going to boil brake fluid, even if the manifold was touching the m/c, which it isn't.

Plus the air might not even be that hot. Yes, the turbo gets hot and heats up the charge air, but with the intercooler you've got it may not even stay that hot most of the time.

The only thing I don't like about the intake is the square main body. Seems like it would create dead space near the corners.
 
I would agree that the shape could be more appealing. How ever it is a proven piece used on a SRT4 motor. The plenum is a piece I bought from JM Fabrication. They make sheet metal intakes for the srt4 motors. How ever in my case If I would have just bought one from them the throttle body would have been facing the firewall. I didn't want that so I build the rest of it myself. My thinking at the time was I need it to clear the thermostat housing and power steering pump. So the intake runners are 6" long. My plan now is to remove the thermostat housing make a flange to bolt to the head and weld on a -16 AN fitting and do the same for the top radiator hose. I will agree that I don't think there is that much concern with the air charge temp and the master cylinder. The intake plenum may not be as squared off as it may seem in the pictures. It looks much better as a finished piece.
 
one for the srt4
 

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Hey if it works on the SRT4 and they can pull 500+ hp with them it can't be all that bad right? ;-)

It makes a difference too because all that is "dry" air, the whole thing is upstream from the injectors so it's not nearly as critical anyway. I forget things like that when I look at fuel injected engines, I'm a little too engrained with carburetors.

I had an '04 SRT4 for a few years. That 2.4 is a nice engine. I didn't do anything all that crazy with mine, just a stage1 chip, lorenzo throttle body and the mopar/borla exhaust. A couple other little tweaks I've forgotten, it was around 250hp at the wheels. It was a lot of fun , I just could never wrap my head around the FWD thing. And all the ricer kids got pretty annoying. #-o
 
Tonight I have the transmission tunnel trimmed back to let the transmission slide up and in to place. By removing the thermostat housing you can see I can gain a lot of room to move the intake in away from the master cylinder. I'm going to cut 2" out of the runners. Now I just need to figure out how I want to support the motor. Fab up some motor mounts and a cross member.
 

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Motor looks like it was made to fit in there, looking good.
Looks like you have lots of room for the exhaust and turbo charger.
 
Keith Mopar said:
Motor looks like it was made to fit in there, looking good.
Looks like you have lots of room for the exhaust and turbo charger.
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Thanks Keith. Some re arranging to do but I'm getting it figured out. Kind of waiting on getting the oil pan done before I build the motor mounts.
 
340duster340 said:
Killer build.

Hide the brake master. It kills the engine bay. Kuegel makes a neat set up.

https://www.google.com/search?q=kue...hVIGR4KHascAowQ_AUIBSgB#imgrc=5YA2ZWrKjDc0GM:

Here is a close up
https://www.google.com/search?q=kue...hVIGR4KHascAowQ_AUIBSgB#imgrc=g8Ny2t6Mzj7gqM:
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Thanks I think it will look more in proportion we I shorten the intake runners by 1 1/2 inches. The car will be white and the master cylinder that is on there is just a mock up unit. The Wilwood master cylinder I'm using will be black.
 
Looks like u have room for a 440 or 426 or 383..... A big block !

The slant 6 dart is a slug, those big tires n your 4 cyl i hope its not even worse. :wack:

Unless your going to make it acit like. Ken blocks st ford fiesta... Then party on wayne
 
Taxmanth said:
Looks like u have room for a 440 or 426 or 383..... A big block !

The slant 6 dart is a slug, those big tires n your 4 cyl i hope its not even worse. :wack:

Unless your going to make it acit like. Ken blocks st ford fiesta... Then party on wayne
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Well no need for concern on power from the 4 cylinder. I believe 530 at the wheel is a low estimated guess. Don't need the boat anchor weight of a big block for what I plan on doing with the car. Light and nimble is the theme here. Along with a side of a wolf in sheeps clothing.
 
prrc said:
Well no need for concern on power from the 4 cylinder. I believe 530 at the wheel is a low estimated guess. Don't need the boat anchor weight of a big block for what I plan on doing with the car. Light and nimble is the theme here. Along with a side of a wolf in sheeps clothing.
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Here is a little inspiration for you if you think it can't be done.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RI89gTRLd9Y"]10 Second - 600rwhp Turbo GRANNY MOBILE?!?! - YouTube[/ame]
 
looks good tim. here are some intake variations
 

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rapidtransitric said:
looks good tim. here are some intake variations
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all motor mike built that second one pictured. i believe that last one is a guy name len, and the first one was designed by a guy name matt. all manifold are for neon motors making over 700. all motor mike built my old intake manifold and did the head work for the same engine. the more i see this post the more i fill a 2.4 needs to go in my driver dart. it sure would have been easier to just hang on to my old parts lol.
 
jw97neon said:
all motor mike built that second one pictured. i believe that last one is a guy name len, and the first one was designed by a guy name matt. all manifold are for neon motors making over 700. all motor mike built my old intake manifold and did the head work for the same engine. the more i see this post the more i fill a 2.4 needs to go in my driver dart. it sure would have been easier to just hang on to my old parts lol.
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you should jw, then there would be four of us building and compiling information for this type of build. collect and gather the knowledge for others to build a rwd four cylinder abody
 
rapidtransitric said:
looks good tim. here are some intake variations
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Hey Rich, Have never seen any of those intakes before. Both look well thought out.

jw97neon said:
i have never seen this car before. i love it. i can not wait to see your finished result.
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Not sure who showed me that car, But really a cool build.



rapidtransitric said:
you should jw, then there would be four of us building and compiling information for this type of build. collect and gather the knowledge for others to build a rwd four cylinder abody
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I say jump on board. Rich has shared his knowledge of this swap with me. It has been great not to start such a project from trial and error. I will do the same for anyone else that jump in with a build of there own.
 
the value of your thread is enormous to all of us.....thanks Tim for the quality up-to-date posts on all the modifications. I can only hope there is room on the paint scheme for an HDK logo!..even if you have to ghost it.

Note to any other vendor that considers being a part of this build....the RETURN doesn't get any better.
 
HemiDenny said:
the value of your thread is enormous to all of us.....thanks Tim for the quality up-to-date posts on all the modifications. I can only hope there is room on the paint scheme for an HDK logo!..even if you have to ghost it.

Note to any other vendor that considers being a part of this build....the RETURN doesn't get any better.
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Denny, You will not be forgotten. You logo will be proudly displayed on the car.
 
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