Project DART VADER

-
Guys if your looking to make a move to rack and pinion steering and want to get a way from the factory k member. Give hemidenny a call. very nice product and at almost $1000 less than the compedators and dont have to modify it. im very pleased with it.

Cant wait to start on the rear 4link and narrow the rearend.

wanted to raise the floor at first(like channel the body) to tuck everything up undr the car but looks like i will loose too much head room.
 
cody.bourgeois said:
Guys if your looking to make a move to rack and pinion steering and want to get a way from the factory k member. Give hemidenny a call. very nice product and at almost $1000 less than the competitors and dont have to modify it. im very pleased with it.
Click to expand...

I will second that notion.
 
Hey bro,

nice work, im looking at getting a Hemidenny front end, but just have some questions over clearances, your car has a ride height very similar to what im after, i understand you have the "super slammer"

Any chance you could tell me the distance between the bottom of the front frame rail (where the K member bolts up) to the ground?

Also in a previous photo you showed the clearance from the lowest point on the suspension setup to the ground being about 4.5", just wondering if this is at the ride height in these photos.

also what amount of travel compression/drop are you running?

Cheers

Lee

cody.bourgeois said:
Fender lips rolled with 1/4inch round stock. gained 1/4 an inch for tire clearence. Mock up wheels are tucking nicely. still able to turn lock to lock. Looks like ima try the 8000's airride to get it alil lower for show. even tho these wheels are 19inch wheels the height of the tire is the same as the 18's i want to run. stance is coming together. thanks Hemidenny think we are going to make it work like it is.
Click to expand...
 
yes i have the superslammer k member. the measurement of 4.5 was at ride height with a 12inch eye to eye in the shock location. if i run coilovers the specs denny will give u was 12in ride height 14extended and 10.5 compressed if i remember right. i may run airride i havent deceided. and this is with a 8in wide wheel. idk if you can do it with a 8.5 or larger and get this low and still be able to turn lock to lock.. it gets tight very quick.

Wheel offset is the ticket here. Remember im not using MUSTANG wheels im going with a billet wheel bilt to my specs.

Im shooting for a 3-4inch frame rail height under the door. the door will will be a few inches higher
 
coming together great cody,
few questions for ya.
On the fender that you modified, what exactly did you do it? looks like you made some releif cuts and welded in a curved bar? Im assuming this you enlarged the fender/wheel arch?
second, on your hemidenny kit (just emailed him about one), i didn't see any shock tower support, do you have any? does hemis kit include support? or are you planning some kind of J bar(think thats what they are called) support for it that ties the frame rail, firewall, and shock tower together?
 
i didnt mod the arch or opening. i put 1/4inch round stock on the inside of the fender lip. made some cuts to bend over round stock. this mod make your stock fender lip thatis almost 1/2 inch wide in some spots 1/4inch. i know it doesnt seam like alot but when u want to turn low every lilbit helps.

Hemidenny kit does not support to firewall, he has a shock brace that bolts in to the top of the existing hole on top and throught the side of the inner fender. it supports everything in a triangle form.
 
thank you for clarifying. I know I love how those wheels tuck up under, I wanna do that on mine too.
I think im gonna go with hemidenny over alterk then. Looks like its a damn good product.
 
snapetwo said:
thank you for clarifying. I know I love how those wheels tuck up under, I wanna do that on mine too.
I think im gonna go with hemidenny over alterk then. Looks like its a damn good product.
Click to expand...


Ive looked into the Alter K also, HemiDenny is cheaper and using the super slammer kit it seems you can the front end sitting lower than the Alter K.

The only thing that concerns me is that the guys running the slammer kit are still in the build process, they havent actually had their car running down the road, let alone around a road course. The RMS is proven in this regard to be a good setup.
 
funkyflynz said:
Ive looked into the Alter K also, HemiDenny is cheaper and using the super slammer kit it seems you can the front end sitting lower than the Alter K.

The only thing that concerns me is that the guys running the slammer kit are still in the build process, they havent actually had their car running down the road, let alone around a road course. The RMS is proven in this regard to be a good setup.
Click to expand...

Denny and a couple others have been running his K member for years. He is just now starting to build the K members for other people outside of his circle of friends. Or maybe his circle of friends got larger and hes building more for us... :)


Cody, I can't wait to see your Dart on bags!
 
All in all all performance suspension have the atachment points, some type of arms, coils etc. You throw in the correct geometry and presto. Performance car!!! its not rocket science. I have been building custom cars for 15yrs and this kit has what it takes to get the car where i need it to belooks and all.

His kit is very well made, plenty of beefyness, alot of adjustment, geomety is there it doesnt change during the motions, It will perform just fine..!!

Plus his buddies have been running them for years. I just became a buddy recently

funkyflynz said:
ive looked into the alter k also, hemidenny is cheaper and using the super slammer kit it seems you can the front end sitting lower than the alter k.

The only thing that concerns me is that the guys running the slammer kit are still in the build process, they havent actually had their car running down the road, let alone around a road course. The rms is proven in this regard to be a good setup.
Click to expand...
 
Cody, I can't wait to see your Dart on bags![/QUOTE]

I may just run the coilovers. might spend the extra money elseware.
 
A few guys here were asking what other things i have done so ill post a few pics. The boats were my own that i have repainted, along with the c10 and the s10 blazer.

driversside.jpg

DSC04657.jpg

DSC00588.jpg

DSC03829.jpg

bowntheriver003.jpg



Stereo installes i have built.
jamesscott06015.jpg

fe4e4423.jpg

dougescalade018.jpg

DSC01893.jpg

DSC01892.jpg

DSC03494.jpg


DSC03422.jpg


possum018.jpg

chadf150harleytruck012.jpg

hookedup2001.jpg

DSC04967.jpg


stuff i molded and made
IMG_2953.jpg

DSC05054.jpg
 
well i got my 13in cobra rotors and calipers in today. waiting on the hubs and spindle bracket to arrive. cant waite to install them for test fit. Reason for going this route is because its like $500 for everything (alot better than $1000-$1500 other kits) and you can go rite to the parts store and get parts.

pic37.png




and a front stane update. wheels 18x8 will need alil more backspacing for my liking to have a lil more clearence.

pic35.png


pic36.png
 
:burnout:
jrlegacy23 said:
Nice, Cody. What back spacing you at now?
Click to expand...


Im not quite sure at the moment as i didnt measure but they are 19x8 for sure on the mock up wheels. and jut by looking i will have plent of room to add more backspacing. im looing at maybe 1/2-3/4in more backspacing. and my A arms are set at 3 inches center of bushing to crossbar in the A Arm. so i can move in the A arm and do more backspacing. moving A arm in will be the next thing to do.

The front wheel lip that it has now is nice i dont want to tatally take that away because it will become a front wheel drive looking wheel.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top